Problem with MMP, please help!
#1
Problem with MMP, please help!
I'm having a problem with my Mamba Max Pro ESC. I've tried multiple batteries and motors so I know those are not the issue. When I first power up the ESC it turns on fine, making the motor emit the proper start-up tones. After the start-up tones, I get a blinking yellow LED which is normal. I can apply very light throttle and get the motor to turn, but as soon as I apply any more than 10-15% throttle, the ESC cuts out and I get blinking green and yellow LEDs. I've read that this indicates low-voltage cut-off, but this happens on multiple freshly charged lipos. Any suggestions?
#2
Same thing happened to my sons MMP is his Slash. I couldn't figure it out either until I finally decided to remove the switch. Guess what, it was the switch! We had just been running in some very dusty conditions and it started acting up as you described. I cut the switch off, twisted the wires together to complete the circuit and shrunk the heat shrink tubing to keep it contained. Add the heat shrink tubing first btw
Good luck
Good luck
#3
My switch is already removed, but I will take the case off and bypass it directly on the circuit board to see if that does the trick. It has all new wires and solder connections for the battery leads and the motor leads, so all that should be fine. But I remember the switch wiring looking a little messy, hopefully that's the issue. Thanks, dubum.
#4
If you have a Castle Link try updating/reflashing the software on the controller, and make sure the ESC is set for "auto-lipo" and "3.2v/cell". Retest. If a sensored motor try replacing the sensor wire first, then the motor/sensor board. All else fails send it in and we'll see what's going on.
http://castlecreations.com/support/repairs.html
http://castlecreations.com/support/s...quest_form.pdf
http://castlecreations.com/support/repairs.html
http://castlecreations.com/support/s...quest_form.pdf
#5
If you have a Castle Link try updating/reflashing the software on the controller, and make sure the ESC is set for "auto-lipo" and "3.2v/cell". Retest. If a sensored motor try replacing the sensor wire first, then the motor/sensor board. All else fails send it in and we'll see what's going on.
http://castlecreations.com/support/repairs.html
http://castlecreations.com/support/s...quest_form.pdf
http://castlecreations.com/support/repairs.html
http://castlecreations.com/support/s...quest_form.pdf
#6
Tech Elite
iTrader: (48)
If you have a Castle Link try updating/reflashing the software on the controller, and make sure the ESC is set for "auto-lipo" and "3.2v/cell". Retest. If a sensored motor try replacing the sensor wire first, then the motor/sensor board. All else fails send it in and we'll see what's going on.
http://castlecreations.com/support/repairs.html
http://castlecreations.com/support/s...quest_form.pdf
http://castlecreations.com/support/repairs.html
http://castlecreations.com/support/s...quest_form.pdf
So remove the sensor wire, ignore the cogging issue that will cause long enough to see if that fixes this problem. If that is the case it is either the wire or the board.
#7
Redo your Calibration of TX. & make sure it's not set for brushed motor.
#8
Tech Adept
In my mmp it was the bec, which was weak depending on the servo (savox power suckers), so external bec may help.
#9
Tech Champion
iTrader: (280)
I'm having a problem with my Mamba Max Pro ESC. I've tried multiple batteries and motors so I know those are not the issue. When I first power up the ESC it turns on fine, making the motor emit the proper start-up tones. After the start-up tones, I get a blinking yellow LED which is normal. I can apply very light throttle and get the motor to turn, but as soon as I apply any more than 10-15% throttle, the ESC cuts out and I get blinking green and yellow LEDs. I've read that this indicates low-voltage cut-off, but this happens on multiple freshly charged lipos. Any suggestions?
#10
Thanks for the help so far guys, here is the update:
I reflashed the firmware, and also tried downgrading to the newest full release (not the newest beta), but that didn't change anything. I removed the switch completely and bridged the connections at the circuit board, again no change. Recalibrated the ESC & TX, switched to an AM rx/tx to eliminate binding as an issue, and reset all the lipo & power settings to factory defaults.
None of that changed anything, so I finally tried disabling the lipo cut-off, and it works but not well. If I ease into the throttle I get very little power, and if I hit it hard I get full power for about half a second and then it drops down sharply. I tried different lipos and got the same results. So with that said, where should I go from here? Again I appreciate all the help so far, hopefully I can get this fixed this weekend.
One thing I just thought about is the battery connector. It's new which is why I haven't considered it as an issue, but I suppose it is possible that I have a weak solder connection there. I'll take that apart right now and resolder those just to make sure, but I'm not new to soldering so I doubt that is the issue.
I reflashed the firmware, and also tried downgrading to the newest full release (not the newest beta), but that didn't change anything. I removed the switch completely and bridged the connections at the circuit board, again no change. Recalibrated the ESC & TX, switched to an AM rx/tx to eliminate binding as an issue, and reset all the lipo & power settings to factory defaults.
None of that changed anything, so I finally tried disabling the lipo cut-off, and it works but not well. If I ease into the throttle I get very little power, and if I hit it hard I get full power for about half a second and then it drops down sharply. I tried different lipos and got the same results. So with that said, where should I go from here? Again I appreciate all the help so far, hopefully I can get this fixed this weekend.
One thing I just thought about is the battery connector. It's new which is why I haven't considered it as an issue, but I suppose it is possible that I have a weak solder connection there. I'll take that apart right now and resolder those just to make sure, but I'm not new to soldering so I doubt that is the issue.
#13
What Radio system are you useing? How Lipo useing?