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Old 10-19-2012, 08:34 PM
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Default Problem with MMP, please help!

I'm having a problem with my Mamba Max Pro ESC. I've tried multiple batteries and motors so I know those are not the issue. When I first power up the ESC it turns on fine, making the motor emit the proper start-up tones. After the start-up tones, I get a blinking yellow LED which is normal. I can apply very light throttle and get the motor to turn, but as soon as I apply any more than 10-15% throttle, the ESC cuts out and I get blinking green and yellow LEDs. I've read that this indicates low-voltage cut-off, but this happens on multiple freshly charged lipos. Any suggestions?
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:53 PM
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Same thing happened to my sons MMP is his Slash. I couldn't figure it out either until I finally decided to remove the switch. Guess what, it was the switch! We had just been running in some very dusty conditions and it started acting up as you described. I cut the switch off, twisted the wires together to complete the circuit and shrunk the heat shrink tubing to keep it contained. Add the heat shrink tubing first btw

Good luck
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:13 PM
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My switch is already removed, but I will take the case off and bypass it directly on the circuit board to see if that does the trick. It has all new wires and solder connections for the battery leads and the motor leads, so all that should be fine. But I remember the switch wiring looking a little messy, hopefully that's the issue. Thanks, dubum.
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:32 PM
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If you have a Castle Link try updating/reflashing the software on the controller, and make sure the ESC is set for "auto-lipo" and "3.2v/cell". Retest. If a sensored motor try replacing the sensor wire first, then the motor/sensor board. All else fails send it in and we'll see what's going on.

http://castlecreations.com/support/repairs.html
http://castlecreations.com/support/s...quest_form.pdf
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Ford
If you have a Castle Link try updating/reflashing the software on the controller, and make sure the ESC is set for "auto-lipo" and "3.2v/cell". Retest. If a sensored motor try replacing the sensor wire first, then the motor/sensor board. All else fails send it in and we'll see what's going on.

http://castlecreations.com/support/repairs.html
http://castlecreations.com/support/s...quest_form.pdf
I have the field link, I've updated the firmware but I'll reflash it and reset the lipo settings, thanks Joe!
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Ford
If you have a Castle Link try updating/reflashing the software on the controller, and make sure the ESC is set for "auto-lipo" and "3.2v/cell". Retest. If a sensored motor try replacing the sensor wire first, then the motor/sensor board. All else fails send it in and we'll see what's going on.

http://castlecreations.com/support/repairs.html
http://castlecreations.com/support/s...quest_form.pdf
I had a bad sensor kill power to a MMP before, it would go OK for a bit and die, all power would be off for a while then several long minutes later it would power back up and repeat the aggravation. Replaced the sensor board on the motor and it cleared all that up and ran like a top.

So remove the sensor wire, ignore the cogging issue that will cause long enough to see if that fixes this problem. If that is the case it is either the wire or the board.
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Old 10-19-2012, 11:24 PM
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Redo your Calibration of TX. & make sure it's not set for brushed motor.
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Old 10-20-2012, 01:51 AM
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In my mmp it was the bec, which was weak depending on the servo (savox power suckers), so external bec may help.
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Old 10-20-2012, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by bflan2001
I'm having a problem with my Mamba Max Pro ESC. I've tried multiple batteries and motors so I know those are not the issue. When I first power up the ESC it turns on fine, making the motor emit the proper start-up tones. After the start-up tones, I get a blinking yellow LED which is normal. I can apply very light throttle and get the motor to turn, but as soon as I apply any more than 10-15% throttle, the ESC cuts out and I get blinking green and yellow LEDs. I've read that this indicates low-voltage cut-off, but this happens on multiple freshly charged lipos. Any suggestions?
You could try disabling the cutoff and see if that helps. Be careful when running and bashing so you don't run the battery too low!
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Old 10-20-2012, 03:00 PM
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Thanks for the help so far guys, here is the update:

I reflashed the firmware, and also tried downgrading to the newest full release (not the newest beta), but that didn't change anything. I removed the switch completely and bridged the connections at the circuit board, again no change. Recalibrated the ESC & TX, switched to an AM rx/tx to eliminate binding as an issue, and reset all the lipo & power settings to factory defaults.

None of that changed anything, so I finally tried disabling the lipo cut-off, and it works but not well. If I ease into the throttle I get very little power, and if I hit it hard I get full power for about half a second and then it drops down sharply. I tried different lipos and got the same results. So with that said, where should I go from here? Again I appreciate all the help so far, hopefully I can get this fixed this weekend.


One thing I just thought about is the battery connector. It's new which is why I haven't considered it as an issue, but I suppose it is possible that I have a weak solder connection there. I'll take that apart right now and resolder those just to make sure, but I'm not new to soldering so I doubt that is the issue.
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:30 AM
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Old 10-22-2012, 12:58 PM
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Old 10-24-2012, 05:36 PM
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What Radio system are you useing? How Lipo useing?
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