RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

That's really good stuff Goat

hotrod1933

iTrader: (8)

Mike

Thanks for the detailed reply. Answers below.
I usually am now getting good consistency but as stated get the odd blinder lap.
Within a given round (to take out track evolution differences), how far off the pace of front-runners are you?
Sometimes the same, (19 sec lap) last night 0.5 slower. last time we ran during the day i was slightly quicker on my good laps but he is definitely better overall.

Are you using the same tires? yes and no. Mostly we use Muchmore 28-32's. Daytime lately the MM Rush 36X have been good. I am thinking I am going to soft maybe as well which gives massive grip but lets you drive harder which may not be as quick. Feels quicker but is not.
Same tire age probably newer
Same tire prep similar
What is the difference between your fastest lap and your top 20 average (consistency)? usually around 0.8 or better some days 0.2 a lot depends on traffic

Some things that would be helpful to know are track type, grip level, layout, tires.
outdoor asphalt two old tennis courts. smooth, grip medium. layout technical but has open areas.

1) Consistent car setup. Have been getting pretty anal on this. mainly keeping car to same setup not playing around to much.
inner roll shims about the only thing changing with grip level.

2) Drive consistent. reasonably good for experience as only a year into it.

3) Don't overdrive the car. this is what I think I am doing. there are areas where you can mash the throttle but i think a bit more progressive and smoother may be the answer. Used to notice it more when i ran VTA you had to go smooth to go fast.

4) When in doubt, drive a tight line and shorten the track. Definitely doing this. usually can go inside a lot of the field.

5) You still have to push, though. Agree. Some areas I can gain heaps at corner entry on others.


Regarding messing around with the radio: Ok

The only radio adjustment that I've stuck to is turning down dual-rate. Already down a bit but I know others are down a lot more.

Hoping this sunday is a practise day not race so i can try different things.

Thanks Stephen

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

+1 great post

heretic

Agreed, good piece of advice.

One thing that helped me tremendously as an exercise, is to turn down the dual rate to an absolute minimum to go around the track. I mean almost impossible to drive. Turn it down to 30% or something until you really, REALLY can't go lower. It will feel painfully slow, and it probably is, but give it 3 minutes and you will surprise yourself by actually managing to run some consecutive laps. Now run it some more, for a whole run. Doesn't feel so understeering after all ! Now look at the time sheets, sure it's far from your previous PB but it's not as slow as you thought. You can then add very slowly more dual rate, 5% by 5% each run.

What this does is forcing you to work on your lines and throttle control. Usually when you start to push the car and it rewards you with slower lap times, it means you are overshooting the corners and compensating by turning the front wheels too much. It feels fast but you are just killing your cornerspeed. With the trick above, there's a good chance you'll end up improving both your best lap AND your consistency, while still using less throw than before. Your front tires will probably wear less and be more consistent over the course of a run.

Just something that works for me.

Bishop

iTrader: (5)

110g is lite, the MuchMores I have sitting on my desk weigh 128g, foams 'are' lighter, often depending on how much foam is left on them, or what the rims are, but I so love driving on foams...


Note on other subjects being talked about, I like having some scrub steer, the ability to steer beyond what will grip can be useful if you want to wash off some speed without hitting the brakes, also if your track has a mix of tight and open, you will often need a lot of lock regardless, learning that fine control of steering is key though.

PDR TOO

iTrader: (24)

The weight of the Ride tyres is affected by the inserts. The wheels with the red writing have the denser rubber inserts. The LT version with the blue writing have open cell foam inserts which causes them to be lighter (30 grams I have been told). I was caught out by this and was underweight at an interclub event this year when I changed from MuchMore VPM32 to Ride 28LT.

Mwdynamics

Hi all,

I've got a t4 chassis, looking at getting a lipo graphite strap.
How are these installed without the battery sliding into the belt in the centre of the chassis?
Just a bit worried that my lipo is going to chew my belt up with one and there is not many instructions on installing these on the net. Been looking for a couple of days

Also I have a lrp sxx tc v2 esc, using my old 27mhz tx and Rx and the steering keeps twitching. Do I need to upgrade the radio gear? Go for 2.4ghz?

Thanks in advance!

Jerz616

iTrader: (49)

When you put the kit together you will see that there are 2 nylon nuts that attach to the chassis as a back stop for the battery. You won't need anything additional to prevent the batt from hitting the belt. I would suggest using battery tape or RSD's battery hold down system instead of thst full length piece that goes over the battery. I've been told by several good drivers thst those can create some unintentional tweak on your chassis if its not tightened correctly.

As far as your tx/rx, switching to 2.4 would definately help I would think as you wouldn't get any interference from outside electronics.

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

The RSD battery holders r the POO! If and when u get them make sure they don't lock down on battery u want .2-.4mm spacing between the battery and tab. It keeps chassis form tweaking and keep form bending them in a hard crash . I put a thin nylon washer under each so I could squash it to the correct distance . good luck

cyba888

Anyone tried LTCR lightweight body? Would this work on 4.5t motor running asphalt?

erchn

iTrader: (7)

Yes, and yes. Works great.

cyba888

Thanks what are pros and cos running LW?

hyujmn

iTrader: (27)

I installed them in mine and I love them! I have the rsd battery holders in every car

locked

iTrader: (1)

Pros:
Lower CoG, less prone to traction rolling
Less total weight

Cons:
Flexes at high speed(some use a 5th body post to counter this)
Sections of the shell can tear easier in a crash than regular weight, but regular weight shells tend to crack more(not always true. I've had a few brittle LW shells)

I only use lightweight shells now, but I usually smear a liberal layer of shoegoo in the valence and front wheel wells, after painting, to help extend their life.

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

I use a rattle can of liquid tape(from harberfreight) in my most prone to damage areas . tried really quick and is light enough to do a larger area without adding extra weight