2LikesXray T4 '13
08-05-2013, 04:47 AM
#4531
MOTOR SCREWS?????
I have just built two T4 cars and I find that my pinion gear is grinding on the screws that are holding the motor in. Do I have to go to the narrow Xray pinions or is there another fix? I'm really not looking forward to buying 15 or 16 new pinions just for this car......THANKS
08-05-2013, 05:09 AM
#4532
I have just built two T4 cars and I find that my pinion gear is grinding on the screws that are holding the motor in. Do I have to go to the narrow Xray pinions or is there another fix? I'm really not looking forward to buying 15 or 16 new pinions just for this car......THANKS
08-05-2013, 06:00 AM
#4533
08-05-2013, 06:20 AM
#4534
08-05-2013, 06:36 AM
#4535
We will have probably 2 different versions.
A Standard version which will be just the chassis plate, which can be used with your stock equipment and the toe block version which will include all the hardware you need to convert it (Shorter Hinge Pins, Pivot balls, All the inserts for Toe in Ajustment and the chassis.)
The Standard version should come in at around $79.99
The Toe block version should be roughly around $135.00
Oh, the other thing I failed to mention is the conversion takes off around 25g off of the car. The chassis is only a few grams lighter, but the removal of the large screws that go into the suspension holders, plus the aluminum holders and other miscellaneous items add up!
My car, with every single RSD Accessory, CSO layshaft holders, Spec R Top deck center post, the heavy 6900 EA Packs, Reedy 4.5T motor, GRC Fan, front gear diff with spring steel outdrives comes in at around 1340 grams. I have not added weight to it because it balances out perfectly, but it is nice to be that low without trying.
A Standard version which will be just the chassis plate, which can be used with your stock equipment and the toe block version which will include all the hardware you need to convert it (Shorter Hinge Pins, Pivot balls, All the inserts for Toe in Ajustment and the chassis.)
The Standard version should come in at around $79.99
The Toe block version should be roughly around $135.00
Oh, the other thing I failed to mention is the conversion takes off around 25g off of the car. The chassis is only a few grams lighter, but the removal of the large screws that go into the suspension holders, plus the aluminum holders and other miscellaneous items add up!
My car, with every single RSD Accessory, CSO layshaft holders, Spec R Top deck center post, the heavy 6900 EA Packs, Reedy 4.5T motor, GRC Fan, front gear diff with spring steel outdrives comes in at around 1340 grams. I have not added weight to it because it balances out perfectly, but it is nice to be that low without trying.
thanks
warren
08-05-2013, 06:54 AM
#4536
08-05-2013, 06:58 AM
#4537
I have just built two T4 cars and I find that my pinion gear is grinding on the screws that are holding the motor in. Do I have to go to the narrow Xray pinions or is there another fix? I'm really not looking forward to buying 15 or 16 new pinions just for this car......THANKS
08-05-2013, 07:01 AM
#4538
and the motor screws need to be button heads for more clearance
08-05-2013, 07:55 AM
#4539
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
I had the same issue with the pinions when running 47t+ pinions. I was trying to gear up for stock while running 96t spurs. I found that it was very difficult to get a good mesh without having the pinion contact the motor screws because of the fatter head on motor screw.
What I eventually did was just get normal 3x8mm button head screws and put a 1mm shim between the screw and motor mount. It holds very well (even with my board hitting) and I haven't had the motor move at all.
What I eventually did was just get normal 3x8mm button head screws and put a 1mm shim between the screw and motor mount. It holds very well (even with my board hitting) and I haven't had the motor move at all.
08-05-2013, 08:09 AM
#4540
It's going to be lite, I never remember to weigh a car at that stage for some reason, all I know is my new T4 weighs something like 100 grams less than the Photon EX it's replacing, which is likely good and bad for me, cause for some upcoming events I'll need to add something like 40-50g to it.
Pinions and spurs are very tight fitting in the T4, I got a very full set of YeahRacing pinions, which seem to be working ok, in part cause they are not very thick, and have a beveled edge off the teeth side, helps just that little bit when reverse mounting and wanting to clear those motor screws.
I found the downside of the smallish button head screws the other night though, someone spun in front of me at speed, and I hit them front bumper to front bumper, hard enough that the motor shifted forward and I lost drive...
To be fair, it was a hard hit, hard enough my servo mount shifted/twisted forward, and my Sanwa receiver case also cracked open from the impact!
Pinions and spurs are very tight fitting in the T4, I got a very full set of YeahRacing pinions, which seem to be working ok, in part cause they are not very thick, and have a beveled edge off the teeth side, helps just that little bit when reverse mounting and wanting to clear those motor screws.
I found the downside of the smallish button head screws the other night though, someone spun in front of me at speed, and I hit them front bumper to front bumper, hard enough that the motor shifted forward and I lost drive...
To be fair, it was a hard hit, hard enough my servo mount shifted/twisted forward, and my Sanwa receiver case also cracked open from the impact!
08-05-2013, 09:05 AM
#4541
ok ,started the race day with a car that was sweet to drive,after 1 round quali im 7th,so the rest of the day im trying to go faster,but this is where it all went wrong,the rear became very loose as the temps came up,i took the 1mm inner link shim off and although a little better its still loose,tried a 1.3 rear bar,still no good,went from 2.7 to 2.6 helped alot (i posted a faster time)but 3/4 mins in the same again,i tried standing them up,laying them down but just couldnt get the rear to grip,was i overheating the tyres? im not sure as i ran a set cold and it was still loose and didnt get better as they warmed,so what should be done and why,thanks
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...D=484&setup=t4
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...D=484&setup=t4
Last edited by chasingthepack; 08-05-2013 at 09:20 AM.
08-05-2013, 09:10 AM
#4542
08-05-2013, 09:29 AM
#4543
it should sit flush with the end of the rotor spindle,they still touch the battery unless you put some thick tape against the locating nuts,the battery must not move from side to side and itll be fine
and the motor screws need to be button heads for more clearance
and the motor screws need to be button heads for more clearance
08-05-2013, 09:37 AM
#4544
i use button heads with a .4 shim and ive never had a problem with them i run 13.5 and used to crash alot,my 12 yr old son (who crashes a lot) has never had a problem,the problem is your tool,if the tip is worn then it will slip in the head,best thing is to refresh the tip by grinding 1mm from the tip,thisll get you down to metal that hasnt worn and itll fit snug
08-05-2013, 09:38 AM
#4545
