JOE SI

iTrader: (13)

My motor even has scratches on the can. I always have 2 sets made for race days so I'm gonna try using 3 hole 1.0 next time out and see if its better

Skiddins

Motors always end up getting ground away, but it shouldn't be happening at every corner, only when going over a larger curb or similar.

Remember, the T4 has a very low CoG so we probably need it to be softer than you'd think.

Skiddins

JOE SI

iTrader: (13)

Softer? I'd think I'd be able to make it stiffer with the low COG.
Skiddins, I posted a few pages back that you know your s--t and always take your advice, so I'm going to test the different pistons and let you know how it goes.
I'm pretty new to racing and these machines we call toys (they are far from toys, if you want a toy go to toys R us) and have lots of questions and I highly appreciate this website and the seasoned racers answering these questions.
I'm starting to understand the mechanics of the car but still have a long way to go, but my understanding of the car is starting to overcome my driving ability. IMHO I should just drive and improve my driving before asking these questions, but it really fascinates me that they are almost identical to full scale race cars, and I'm starting to understand the real cars more

Skiddins

I'm flattered you think I know a lot, but I still struggle sometimes with understanding all of it. I ask Cristian Tabush (Reflex Racing) and Paul Lemieux questions quite a lot on here, as you cannot beat the expertise of guys at the top. At events in the UK, I sometimes ask Ollie Jeffries or Elliot Harper or the Xray team drivers etc questions to see if I can get any further with my knowledge. Try to get a the opinions of a few racers as I have info that contradicted what I thought I knew.

The low CoG means the car doesn't want to roll as much, and I seem to recall that RC cars tend to get a lot of their grip through the rolling (sideways) of the chassis, which is why we have variable flex etc.
I think we're trying to control that roll and flex to give us the grip and traction we want.
Stopping a car rolling is easy, stiffen everything right up and raise the roll centres right up far too high, then it will stay dead flat, but the handling will be crap

With regard to pistons, I tend to fit the most common pistons (according to team setups etc) so I can more easily compare the results of changes.

I have 3 sets of shocks, each with different oil (but the same pistons) so I can change them quickly trackside, this is a combination of avoiding the mess and laziness

artwork

iTrader: (88)

Keep in mind that piston and oil mostly affects the speed at which the car transitions not how far. I tend to find that the car weight to spring rate ratio that unless you make big changes in oil and piston that the affects are quite minimal.

That said I hardly ever change piston...sometimes oil, but I almost always change the feel of the car with springs. Springs tend to have the biggest affect on the feeling of the car; piston and oil are only changed when you are very close and want to fine tune the feel of the car. If you are not close with your setup then changing oil and piston will probably not yield big improvements.

Honestly, only drivers like Paul can really feel the difference between 350CST and 400CST...the rest of mere mortals just think we can !

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

A+ was released layshaft bearing holder ,
for upper deck more flex .

Kellen Guthrie

iTrader: (2)

With a low CoG your weight is closer to the roll center. This means that there is a shorter lever arm from the CoG to the roll center so there will be less force acting on the suspension. Meaning it takes more to get the car to roll. So with a lower CoG you can run the car softer.

JOE SI

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for your answers and opinions. This is the reason why I ask before I do anything, but always test to see if I'm progressing

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

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JOE SI

iTrader: (13)

Skiddins, struggling for me and struggling for you is alot different. When I struggle I can't even get around the track, your idea of struggling is being .2 slower than yesterday LOL. I'll be there soon hopefully

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Oil and piston tuning I find very useful in several different circumstances. They are far more important outdoors than indoors though.

1.Bumpy tracks: More pack helps out on tracks that are bumpy. It prevents the car from bottoming out over bumps and chassis slapping. This is much more important in mod than in stock.

2.Hot weather: For every 15 or so degrees of temperature, I tend to go up about 50cst. Here in Texas, we'll be racing in the winter in 40-50 degree weather and in the Summer we get to run in 100+ temps. That means that when it's cold I am at 300-350 and when it's hot I run around 450-500. If I don't compensate for the heat, the car has no damping.

3.High bite: While I have limited experience with the T4 on high bite, I have always run heavier oil in higher grip conditions. Typically more so in the front. Going to heavier oil in the front will mellow out the reaction time of the car and this makes it easier to drive.

4.Pack can help in mid-to high speed transitions. Like chicanes.

For shocks, I usually carry 2 sets. The std 4x1.1 shocks and another set that I have built with 4x1.15 pistons or 3x1.0+3x0.8 (for a total of 6 holes). The 6 hole is exactly the same effective area as the 4x1.1 and the 4x1.15 is obviously a bit softer. If the track is high bite, I take the 6 hole, if it is low bite, I take the 1.15.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Can one of you guys teach me how to tighten down my spur gear screws?

Kellen Guthrie

iTrader: (2)

Yeah pull your hand out of your ass, grab a wrench, and turn it to the right. Always make sure you're wearing your helmet when you do this.

Skiddins

I've changed oil before now and couldn't tell any difference, but the stopwatch said differently, so I left in whatever was faster

Been looking at your Reedy setup Artwork. What else did you try that didn't work i.e. thinner front roll bar etc?

artwork

iTrader: (88)

Man I tried tons of stuff...but the stuff that did not stick was the following:

1)Medium front roll centers...the car seemed to push without Lows on the front
2)Gear Diff with 2.5 Million...the car was better with the spool
3)4 Deg caster blocks...the car did not turn in very well without 6's on (which seems a bit counter intuitive to me)
4) short camber links all around...made the car really twitchy and harder to drive
5) 2.5 springs front and rear...felt like I needed the car to roll a bit more based on the hardness of the tires
6) Graphite Arms both front and rear...made the car feel numb, this was a very bad idea from the start
7) Less droop...I needed to move more weight around the car to less droop did not help my situation at all

I needed steering so a thinner front bar would have made things worse...I steered clear of that one.

Overall the car was pretty good...I was surprised that I could feel the shimmed up steering rack...but it did seem to make the steering feel a bit more direct