dontfeelcold

iTrader: (22)

The tiniest tweak in the bar can throw it out alot on the car.

Make sure its as even as possible as this can tweak the car on the track in a big way.

Josh-n-ya

iTrader: (95)

Is this like a temp fix? Also will this create another tweak? I have the same issue on an 12 that I just thought was normal.

JOE SI

iTrader: (13)

I had the same problem. You would think the ARB mounts would bother be same when screwed tight since they can only go so far.. I put a .5 shim so I know they are the same and they work fine

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

I have the same issue. Bar ends are equal everything is free and bar is straight but left arm won't raise. When I have less weight on the arm (no hub carrier) they bolt go up. There is no binding either.

Dave

scoyle

I would second this as I checked mine last night - front was perfect but the rear would not raise the right hand side. Checked the roll bar on a piece of glass and it was not flat... twisting it slightly (not much!) made it flat and when I put it back on it worked as expected.

Quick question related to this - how much do people tighten the grub screws on the roll bar mounts?

daleburr

You need to de-tweak the roll-bars with the hubs and upper links removed. And before de-tweaking, make sure the wishbones drop freely under their own weight, and that the roll-bars are free in the holders.

You use the roll-bar links to set the tweak. Lengthen one side as necessary so that the wishbones rise after the same amount of movement. I do this using a ride height gauge under the wishbone. E.g. I may have to lift the RH wishbone 5mm before the LH one starts to lift up. Make sure it's the same the other way around, and adjust the roll-bar links if not.

If the roll-bar tweak has changed when you reattach the hubs and upper links, then you've got some binding somewhere.

Skiddins

I assume you're talking about the two grub screws on the bulkhead mounts, not the links.

Disconnect the links so they are only attached at the bulkheads. loosen the grub screws off so the roll bar drops under it's own weight. Slowly tighten the grub screw on one side until it stops the bar dropping under it's own weight. Now back it out 1/4 turn.
Repeat for the other side.

You want the bars to be loose, but not so much that they rattle around and have lots of movement for and aft or up and down.

scoyle

Yes, on the bulkhead and great explanation, thanks.

chasingthepack

skiddins,have you run 3 hole pistons with a heavier oil?just curious if on a flat track if this would be better or just stick with the 4 holes?

Skiddins

I've only ever run 4hole 1.1mm on the T4

Tekin Prodigy

iTrader: (73)

Can someone elaberate on their personal experience running a softer sway bar on the front of the T4, or even t3, like a 1.3 instead of a 1.4 standard bar. Im looking for more steering and trying to figure out if this is the route I want to go. Thank you

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

That's the first thing you should do according to the xray table.
Then soften spring and damper, lower the roll center, etc.

B00t13g

iTrader: (9)

Where did you find that chart?

B00t13g

iTrader: (9)

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=2531

Found it for anyone interested.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

The used to include it in the older kits.