2LikesXray T4 '13
10-18-2012, 12:52 AM
#766
Tech Regular
to be honest, if you want to get back in to it within a given budget its pretty easy these days.
You can import batteries from china for $25 (you will only need a max of 2), a hobbywing extreme stock esc (which is awesome by the way) for $85. Motors you can get for $30-$40 and transmitters start from as little as $50 with receiver (these are also 2.4ghz). Servo's I would recommend savox, again for $50 you can get a very good one. I run a futaba s9551 and wouldnt change it for anything, but they are pretty expensive.
Of course you can spend as much as you want, but RC is now much cheaper to get in to since the development of brushless motors and lipo batteries.
All of the above stuff will be pretty competitive.
Hope this helps.
You can import batteries from china for $25 (you will only need a max of 2), a hobbywing extreme stock esc (which is awesome by the way) for $85. Motors you can get for $30-$40 and transmitters start from as little as $50 with receiver (these are also 2.4ghz). Servo's I would recommend savox, again for $50 you can get a very good one. I run a futaba s9551 and wouldnt change it for anything, but they are pretty expensive.
Of course you can spend as much as you want, but RC is now much cheaper to get in to since the development of brushless motors and lipo batteries.
All of the above stuff will be pretty competitive.
Hope this helps.
10-18-2012, 01:39 AM
#767
Just a couple of hints for guys getting the T4.
1. This has been common for quite a while, but put a spare set screw in the unused hole in the rear uprights, this will help strengthen them in impacts.
2. The ball studs for the upper clamps only have 4mm of thread, this is fine if you're only going to use 2mm of shims (which makes the inner link the same height as the T3'12 with no shims), but if you ever want to add more you're going to be running a dangerously low amount of thread. I would suggest 6mm ball studs.
They do stick through with 2mm but easily clear the outdrives so you can remove shims as well as add them.
I haven't gotten around to the bumper section yet but i already have a few idea's to strengthen the part where the upper bumper mount no longer touches the bulkheads.
Skiddins
1. This has been common for quite a while, but put a spare set screw in the unused hole in the rear uprights, this will help strengthen them in impacts.
2. The ball studs for the upper clamps only have 4mm of thread, this is fine if you're only going to use 2mm of shims (which makes the inner link the same height as the T3'12 with no shims), but if you ever want to add more you're going to be running a dangerously low amount of thread. I would suggest 6mm ball studs.
They do stick through with 2mm but easily clear the outdrives so you can remove shims as well as add them.
I haven't gotten around to the bumper section yet but i already have a few idea's to strengthen the part where the upper bumper mount no longer touches the bulkheads.
Skiddins
10-18-2012, 01:45 AM
#768
Ran mine for the first time tonight. Really impressed, generates more traction and drive out of the corners than the t3, also easier to drive, you don't feel like you have to drive the nuts off it to be fast with it, whereas I always felt the t3 needed to be on the limit to be quick.
Overall, very happy!
Overall, very happy!
Have you tried any other changes yet?
10-18-2012, 03:22 AM
#770
Tech Regular
I went with pretty much the setup that Corey posted with a couple of changes.
I actually preferred the car with the shocks laid down one on the rear, it made the back end a bit more stable, the carpet we run on is low grip so it helped with consistency.
I'm racing at the BIWS on Sunday, as the track surface is a total unknown to me (indoor athletics track), I think I'm going to go slightly softer on the oil, lay the shocks down front and rear to 2nd hole from the bottom and go with a shorter camber link on the rear. I'm also going to reduce the rear roll centre back to standard from the +0.75mm. All of this should lead to a neutral handling car.
There are already 5 T4's at the local club, the guys who ran the box setup had tons of traction, to the point they were almost grip rolling even though its low traction carpet - personally I think the original setup allows the car to roll a little bit too much.
10-18-2012, 03:39 AM
#771
local track at Holbeach, luckily there is quite a few quick guys there so racing is always pretty close.
I went with pretty much the setup that Corey posted with a couple of changes.
I actually preferred the car with the shocks laid down one on the rear, it made the back end a bit more stable, the carpet we run on is low grip so it helped with consistency.
I'm racing at the BIWS on Sunday, as the track surface is a total unknown to me (indoor athletics track), I think I'm going to go slightly softer on the oil, lay the shocks down front and rear to 2nd hole from the bottom and go with a shorter camber link on the rear. I'm also going to reduce the rear roll centre back to standard from the +0.75mm. All of this should lead to a neutral handling car.
There are already 5 T4's at the local club, the guys who ran the box setup had tons of traction, to the point they were almost grip rolling even though its low traction carpet - personally I think the original setup allows the car to roll a little bit too much.
I went with pretty much the setup that Corey posted with a couple of changes.
I actually preferred the car with the shocks laid down one on the rear, it made the back end a bit more stable, the carpet we run on is low grip so it helped with consistency.
I'm racing at the BIWS on Sunday, as the track surface is a total unknown to me (indoor athletics track), I think I'm going to go slightly softer on the oil, lay the shocks down front and rear to 2nd hole from the bottom and go with a shorter camber link on the rear. I'm also going to reduce the rear roll centre back to standard from the +0.75mm. All of this should lead to a neutral handling car.
There are already 5 T4's at the local club, the guys who ran the box setup had tons of traction, to the point they were almost grip rolling even though its low traction carpet - personally I think the original setup allows the car to roll a little bit too much.
There were a few at EWS including a few in the A-final. I know most were near kit setup. The only change I know of was Bryan Loynes changing ti 1000cSt oil in his gear diff which apparently helped.
10-18-2012, 04:12 AM
#772
Tech Rookie
Hi, if you want to use a t3 bumper use a xray 301321 t4 long brace for bumper. This also puts the top plate back to touching the ally block for support.
10-18-2012, 05:37 AM
#773
Tech Regular
Is it possible to get a 3.8 to 4.0 fdr with this car?
10-18-2012, 05:51 AM
#775
Tech Regular
Do you/Anyone have a gearing chart that works on this car?
10-18-2012, 06:24 AM
#777
Tech Rookie
Hi, is the rear diff supposed to be in the low position for carpet setup ?
Thanks
Thanks
10-18-2012, 07:05 AM
#778
Tech Regular
I can work out the ratios but I new to know what will fit in the car as I need to order them now so I can have them when the kit arrives. I've got a race on the 4th of November I want to run the t4 in.
10-18-2012, 07:19 AM
#779
Tech Regular
10-18-2012, 07:22 AM
#780
Tech Regular
That's for the t3 12 is the space about the same?