Xray T4 '13
#1396
Tech Regular
Is everyone building per kit suggestions . I really don't like the ball stud on inner links. Its only 4mm long and has a2mm shim in there also its scary. Think iI'm going to have to order some 6mm/8mm studs just to keep my mind at ease . ..
Has anyone tried running no shims under inside and 2mm outside in rear ?
And front 1mm inside and 0mm out side front ?
This would keep same link angles & length but lower them.
Has anyone tried running no shims under inside and 2mm outside in rear ?
And front 1mm inside and 0mm out side front ?
This would keep same link angles & length but lower them.
#1397
Is everyone building per kit suggestions . I really don't like the ball stud on inner links. Its only 4mm long and has a2mm shim in there also its scary. Think iI'm going to have to order some 6mm/8mm studs just to keep my mind at ease . ..
Has anyone tried running no shims under inside and 2mm outside in rear ?
And front 1mm inside and 0mm out side front ?
This would keep same link angles & length but lower them.
Has anyone tried running no shims under inside and 2mm outside in rear ?
And front 1mm inside and 0mm out side front ?
This would keep same link angles & length but lower them.
#1401
Must confess I fitted 6mm ball studs from the start of the build.
I was never worried about there not being enough thread in the clamps, they'll be fine, but I did want the option to be able to use everything from no shims on the clamps up to 4mm and everything inbetween if I wanted.
Skiddins
I was never worried about there not being enough thread in the clamps, they'll be fine, but I did want the option to be able to use everything from no shims on the clamps up to 4mm and everything inbetween if I wanted.
Skiddins
#1404
30 is too much for driveshafts and it slows the car.
25 is the best, if you car does'nt turn enough with 25, you need to find another way to have more steering and your cornerspeed will be increased.
#1405
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...the T4, Part 1
Specifically, this part:
We had made a lot of progress in recent years, but we still felt that there was something missing or something not completely perfect with our steering system. Specifically, when I was observing our cars on carpet, I saw that we have a lot of steering on corner entry (which was good), but then the car kind of ‘stopped’ as it slowed down and then in the middle of the corner the car started to push.
After thinking and discussing the potential causes of our problem I came up with a very simple idea - to test a different servo linkage mounting position. Our main observation was that on the T3 when you set-up steering you have 25 degrees, but in reality it is always more as the force from the wheel touching the surface will overpower the servo saver and therefore in reality would steer more(allowing as much as 33degrees of throw). This excess steering angle resulted in the car having the “stop” effect in the corners. The driver would feel as though they have lots of steering, but it was only an illusion.
The initial idea to test and prove this theory was to glue backstops on the C-hub (simple alu shims) which would stop the steering block at exactly 25 degrees. In the first test I felt initially that the car had less steering but since the “stop” effect was removed I was able to reach higher cornering speeds and the car was much easier to drive which of course translated into improved lap times. With our theory proven, I now had to figure out how to change the steering system to limit the steering at 25 degrees without allowing the steering block to touch the C-hub. The solution was very simple indeed. I added a large mounting bushing on the central alu steering plate where the servo linkage is mounted. When the steering reaches 25 degrees the alu shim works as a backstop and limits the steering throw to the maximum 25 degrees.
After thinking and discussing the potential causes of our problem I came up with a very simple idea - to test a different servo linkage mounting position. Our main observation was that on the T3 when you set-up steering you have 25 degrees, but in reality it is always more as the force from the wheel touching the surface will overpower the servo saver and therefore in reality would steer more(allowing as much as 33degrees of throw). This excess steering angle resulted in the car having the “stop” effect in the corners. The driver would feel as though they have lots of steering, but it was only an illusion.
The initial idea to test and prove this theory was to glue backstops on the C-hub (simple alu shims) which would stop the steering block at exactly 25 degrees. In the first test I felt initially that the car had less steering but since the “stop” effect was removed I was able to reach higher cornering speeds and the car was much easier to drive which of course translated into improved lap times. With our theory proven, I now had to figure out how to change the steering system to limit the steering at 25 degrees without allowing the steering block to touch the C-hub. The solution was very simple indeed. I added a large mounting bushing on the central alu steering plate where the servo linkage is mounted. When the steering reaches 25 degrees the alu shim works as a backstop and limits the steering throw to the maximum 25 degrees.
#1407
Tech Elite
iTrader: (88)
Sounds to me like you got a little Xtra there Joey...(you can take that where ever you would like)
#1409
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Land of high taxes and bad football
Posts: 1,807
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
fyi rcmarket has T4 option parts in stock...