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Old 11-06-2012, 03:11 AM   #1396
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Is everyone building per kit suggestions . I really don't like the ball stud on inner links. Its only 4mm long and has a2mm shim in there also its scary. Think iI'm going to have to order some 6mm/8mm studs just to keep my mind at ease . ..

Has anyone tried running no shims under inside and 2mm outside in rear ?
And front 1mm inside and 0mm out side front ?
This would keep same link angles & length but lower them.
I never liked the short links on the '12 however on the t4 the feeling is totally different. I started with the middle links but changed to shorter links to try and actually preferred it. On the '12 I always felt the car would roll far too much but as the t4 cog is so much lower, the short links feel more like the middle links did on the '12
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Old 11-06-2012, 04:05 AM   #1397
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
Is everyone building per kit suggestions . I really don't like the ball stud on inner links. Its only 4mm long and has a2mm shim in there also its scary. Think iI'm going to have to order some 6mm/8mm studs just to keep my mind at ease . ..

Has anyone tried running no shims under inside and 2mm outside in rear ?
And front 1mm inside and 0mm out side front ?
This would keep same link angles & length but lower them.
I'm running 2.5mm shims in the front with the 4mm ballstud and no problems so far :-) There's enough thread left to tighten them.
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:22 AM   #1398
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I'm running 2.5mm shims in the front with the 4mm ballstud and no problems so far :-) There's enough thread left to tighten them.
Yea u can tighten them but u need at least 3threads to get full strength of metal . But in the event of a accident on the sweeper I know what that short stud will do
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:34 AM   #1399
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
Yea u can tighten them but u need at least 3threads to get full strength of metal . But in the event of a accident on the sweeper I know what that short stud will do
I think the point here is it will work, just don't hit anything... I changed mine out because of the pinball effect on a carpet track. I'm not saying I don't started it....
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:18 AM   #1400
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Same here . Hopefully my longer studs will be here Friday
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Old 11-06-2012, 10:01 AM   #1401
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Must confess I fitted 6mm ball studs from the start of the build.

I was never worried about there not being enough thread in the clamps, they'll be fine, but I did want the option to be able to use everything from no shims on the clamps up to 4mm and everything inbetween if I wanted.

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Old 11-06-2012, 03:05 PM   #1402
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:19 AM   #1403
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What was the degree of steering on the T4. I got mine all together and seems like its a max of 26*. This sounds like what was talked about buy not sure. My '12 could go to about 30* before any binding.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:29 AM   #1404
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What was the degree of steering on the T4. I got mine all together and seems like its a max of 26*. This sounds like what was talked about buy not sure. My '12 could go to about 30* before any binding.
Yes it's 25 on the T4.
30 is too much for driveshafts and it slows the car.
25 is the best, if you car does'nt turn enough with 25, you need to find another way to have more steering and your cornerspeed will be increased.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:30 AM   #1405
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What was the degree of steering on the T4. I got mine all together and seems like its a max of 26*. This sounds like what was talked about buy not sure. My '12 could go to about 30* before any binding.
Read this:

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...the T4, Part 1

Specifically, this part:

Quote:
We had made a lot of progress in recent years, but we still felt that there was something missing or something not completely perfect with our steering system. Specifically, when I was observing our cars on carpet, I saw that we have a lot of steering on corner entry (which was good), but then the car kind of ‘stopped’ as it slowed down and then in the middle of the corner the car started to push.
After thinking and discussing the potential causes of our problem I came up with a very simple idea - to test a different servo linkage mounting position. Our main observation was that on the T3 when you set-up steering you have 25 degrees, but in reality it is always more as the force from the wheel touching the surface will overpower the servo saver and therefore in reality would steer more(allowing as much as 33degrees of throw). This excess steering angle resulted in the car having the “stop” effect in the corners. The driver would feel as though they have lots of steering, but it was only an illusion.

The initial idea to test and prove this theory was to glue backstops on the C-hub (simple alu shims) which would stop the steering block at exactly 25 degrees. In the first test I felt initially that the car had less steering but since the “stop” effect was removed I was able to reach higher cornering speeds and the car was much easier to drive which of course translated into improved lap times. With our theory proven, I now had to figure out how to change the steering system to limit the steering at 25 degrees without allowing the steering block to touch the C-hub. The solution was very simple indeed. I added a large mounting bushing on the central alu steering plate where the servo linkage is mounted. When the steering reaches 25 degrees the alu shim works as a backstop and limits the steering throw to the maximum 25 degrees.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:43 AM   #1406
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Originally Posted by Nico' View Post
Yes it's 25 on the T4.
30 is too much for driveshafts and it slows the car.
25 is the best, if you car does'nt turn enough with 25, you need to find another way to have more steering and your cornerspeed will be increased.
I measured 27 degrees when using the aluminum bellcrank arms, they are thinner than the plastic arms by a small amount. I'm still not at 100% dual rate so it doesn't really matter.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:53 AM   #1407
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I measured 27 degrees when using the aluminum bellcrank arms, they are thinner than the plastic arms by a small amount. I'm still not at 100% dual rate so it doesn't really matter.
Even if you need a little more steering...which people probably do not you can grind on the plastic steering rack arms to provide the additional three degrees that people will never use. I would not grind on those pretty aluminum arms...but plastic is cheap . 25 Deg of Mechanical steering is more then anyone would ever need for most applications.

Sounds to me like you got a little Xtra there Joey...(you can take that where ever you would like)
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Old 11-07-2012, 10:55 AM   #1408
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
Read this:

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...the T4, Part 1

Specifically, this part:
Thanks. That was a great article. I haven't ran mine yet, but just wanted to make sure my steering was set right.
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:22 PM   #1409
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fyi rcmarket has T4 option parts in stock...
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:23 PM   #1410
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My T4 all ready for it's first run tomorrow.
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The New Xray T4 '13-t4.jpg   The New Xray T4 '13-t42.jpg   The New Xray T4 '13-t43.jpg  
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