Xray T4 '13
#1382
I noticed the supplied screws seem long too. Anyway I used my own stainless steel screws I believe the size is m3x8mm I thInk . Is the same button head type and everything. Believe me they were tight, but I did not put washers underneath. I'll try that and put some friction washers to minimized it happening again.
I might see if I can fit countersunk screws with those large dished washers
#1383
The motor can is perfect and screw size too. I'll change them to the black screws and put friction washers, that should keep it from sliding. Thanks everybody for your suggestions!
#1384
Tech Elite
iTrader: (44)
Take are to not "dent" the motor mount with the mount screw. I have seen where the mount gets indented and the motor walks back to that dented position. I agree I would use a washer to stop this. Which will also cause striping of gears, and this is not only with xray but most motor mounts.
#1385
Tech Elite
iTrader: (44)
What motors are you guys running to have the long screw bottom out in the motor? I had to put a longer screw in my D3.5 motor.... I was concerned that the screw did not hit on enough threads to hold the motor. Yes I'm looking for 100% thread coverage in the motor.... Yes this includes cutting the screw if needed...
One option (not sure how it fits) is to use a cone washer to give more coverage and a flat head screw. I would need to show how this fits, but I'm not running the standard xray gear setup, just do not like how the offset lines up... for the pinion's set screw.... Not a dig, just a personal preference of mine...
One option (not sure how it fits) is to use a cone washer to give more coverage and a flat head screw. I would need to show how this fits, but I'm not running the standard xray gear setup, just do not like how the offset lines up... for the pinion's set screw.... Not a dig, just a personal preference of mine...
#1387
Tech Elite
iTrader: (37)
Is everyone building per kit suggestions . I really don't like the ball stud on inner links. Its only 4mm long and has a2mm shim in there also its scary. Think iI'm going to have to order some 6mm/8mm studs just to keep my mind at ease . ..
Has anyone tried running no shims under inside and 2mm outside in rear ?
And front 1mm inside and 0mm out side front ?
This would keep same link angles & length but lower them.
Has anyone tried running no shims under inside and 2mm outside in rear ?
And front 1mm inside and 0mm out side front ?
This would keep same link angles & length but lower them.
#1388
Tech Elite
iTrader: (37)
Thought of a possible option could one replace the ball studs and cubs with the 5mm open cups and the 5mm duel shoulder balls and just run a bolt thru it into knuckle and inner role center mounts? Anyone see a issue with doing this ? Its only about $25 worth of parts to do all 4 corners vs having $36 worth of 4.9mm ball studs in a box
#1391
Tech Elite
iTrader: (44)
Is everyone building per kit suggestions . I really don't like the ball stud on inner links. Its only 4mm long and has a2mm shim in there also its scary. Think iI'm going to have to order some 6mm/8mm studs just to keep my mind at ease . ..
Has anyone tried running no shims under inside and 2mm outside in rear ?
And front 1mm inside and 0mm out side front ?
This would keep same link angles & length but lower them.
Has anyone tried running no shims under inside and 2mm outside in rear ?
And front 1mm inside and 0mm out side front ?
This would keep same link angles & length but lower them.
#1392
Tech Elite
iTrader: (37)
I want to run this thing Sunday but without proper ball studs I know I will mess up a clamp if I dont get longer studs or loose the shim ... just ordered 47$ worth of ball studs ... u know I'm having a hard time pulling my electronics out of my 2012 to put in my T4 . My T3 is so easy to drive .... and people know what to do at my track if conditions change and setup needs to adjust ...
#1393
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
I want to run this thing Sunday but without proper ball studs I know I will mess up a clamp if I dont get longer studs or loose the shim ... just ordered 47$ worth of ball studs ... u know I'm having a hard time pulling my electronics out of my 2012 to put in my T4 . My T3 is so easy to drive .... and people know what to do at my track if conditions change and setup needs to adjust ...
The 8mm ones might get in the way of the diff outdrives and you will most likely never use that many shims to justify 8mm ballstuds.
#1394
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
I'm sure in mod every little bit helps. Did you run ecs' when you were running 17.5? I'm just curious if you notice the difference as much in a slower class? Also, you and I are the only ones running P37's, anybody ever tell you that you are crazy for running this body? Everyone seems to think its the worst body out there.
#1395
New Option shock spring