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Old 11-05-2012, 02:50 PM   #1381
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Originally Posted by morgoth View Post
Anyway, too bad no one has a pair to test so I'll probably end up buying a pair. Not sure if I'd go with the Xray ones or the Spec R V2's?
The xray ones do not last 2x as long to justify their cost, but they are strong in terms of impact resistance, but they still slop out.
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:59 PM   #1382
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I noticed the supplied screws seem long too. Anyway I used my own stainless steel screws I believe the size is m3x8mm I thInk . Is the same button head type and everything. Believe me they were tight, but I did not put washers underneath. I'll try that and put some friction washers to minimized it happening again.
I would try putting the screws in the motor, but out of the car too see if they are fouling.
I might see if I can fit countersunk screws with those large dished washers
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Old 11-05-2012, 03:52 PM   #1383
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The motor can is perfect and screw size too. I'll change them to the black screws and put friction washers, that should keep it from sliding. Thanks everybody for your suggestions!
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:13 PM   #1384
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The motor can is perfect and screw size too. I'll change them to the black screws and put friction washers, that should keep it from sliding. Thanks everybody for your suggestions!
Take are to not "dent" the motor mount with the mount screw. I have seen where the mount gets indented and the motor walks back to that dented position. I agree I would use a washer to stop this. Which will also cause striping of gears, and this is not only with xray but most motor mounts.
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:19 PM   #1385
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What motors are you guys running to have the long screw bottom out in the motor? I had to put a longer screw in my D3.5 motor.... I was concerned that the screw did not hit on enough threads to hold the motor. Yes I'm looking for 100% thread coverage in the motor.... Yes this includes cutting the screw if needed...

One option (not sure how it fits) is to use a cone washer to give more coverage and a flat head screw. I would need to show how this fits, but I'm not running the standard xray gear setup, just do not like how the offset lines up... for the pinion's set screw.... Not a dig, just a personal preference of mine...
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:49 PM   #1386
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Originally Posted by sjh28 View Post
As Sean B said, I'm trying to work around a slightly bent pin, I don't have an issue with the block system that Xray uses and don't want this to be used as the basis for anyone's argument/discussion regarding their view on the blocks.
Copy,
I didn't see the other post.
Good luck working it out and happy racing.
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:40 PM   #1387
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Is everyone building per kit suggestions . I really don't like the ball stud on inner links. Its only 4mm long and has a2mm shim in there also its scary. Think iI'm going to have to order some 6mm/8mm studs just to keep my mind at ease . ..

Has anyone tried running no shims under inside and 2mm outside in rear ?
And front 1mm inside and 0mm out side front ?
This would keep same link angles & length but lower them.
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Old 11-05-2012, 08:27 PM   #1388
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Thought of a possible option could one replace the ball studs and cubs with the 5mm open cups and the 5mm duel shoulder balls and just run a bolt thru it into knuckle and inner role center mounts? Anyone see a issue with doing this ? Its only about $25 worth of parts to do all 4 corners vs having $36 worth of 4.9mm ball studs in a box
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Old 11-05-2012, 08:50 PM   #1389
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The ball/ball end/thru bolt will result in more play than ball stud/ball end. Tried that and don't recommend.
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Old 11-05-2012, 08:56 PM   #1390
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
Has anyone tried running no shims under inside and 2mm outside in rear ?
And front 1mm inside and 0mm out side front ?
This would keep same link angles & length but lower them.
You'd be raising the rear RC, but giving it more camber gain.

You'd be lowering the front RC, but taking away camber gain.

Try it. Probably not something I'd go for since I like steering, but what do I know...I don't even have this car Soon enough though
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:30 PM   #1391
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
Is everyone building per kit suggestions . I really don't like the ball stud on inner links. Its only 4mm long and has a2mm shim in there also its scary. Think iI'm going to have to order some 6mm/8mm studs just to keep my mind at ease . ..

Has anyone tried running no shims under inside and 2mm outside in rear ?
And front 1mm inside and 0mm out side front ?
This would keep same link angles & length but lower them.
No, in the middle hole, and yes you will need longer ball studs on the bulk head side. My understanding is that lowering should give you more traction...
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:43 PM   #1392
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I want to run this thing Sunday but without proper ball studs I know I will mess up a clamp if I dont get longer studs or loose the shim ... just ordered 47$ worth of ball studs ... u know I'm having a hard time pulling my electronics out of my 2012 to put in my T4 . My T3 is so easy to drive .... and people know what to do at my track if conditions change and setup needs to adjust ...
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Old 11-05-2012, 10:23 PM   #1393
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
I want to run this thing Sunday but without proper ball studs I know I will mess up a clamp if I dont get longer studs or loose the shim ... just ordered 47$ worth of ball studs ... u know I'm having a hard time pulling my electronics out of my 2012 to put in my T4 . My T3 is so easy to drive .... and people know what to do at my track if conditions change and setup needs to adjust ...
I run the 4mm ballstuds on the clamps with 2mm shims and it's perfectly fine. If you want to run more than 2mm of shims, then get the 6mm ballstuds.

The 8mm ones might get in the way of the diff outdrives and you will most likely never use that many shims to justify 8mm ballstuds.
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:55 PM   #1394
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I'm sure in mod every little bit helps. Did you run ecs' when you were running 17.5? I'm just curious if you notice the difference as much in a slower class? Also, you and I are the only ones running P37's, anybody ever tell you that you are crazy for running this body? Everyone seems to think its the worst body out there.
I did run the ecs's in stock too. I noticed it first in stock, and then just left them in the car when I ran mod. If I were running stock I would buy them again if I had to. No one's really said much other than asking what body it is. I think it works similar to a speed6, but somehow just not quite as stable. If it works stick with it.
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Old 11-06-2012, 02:25 AM   #1395
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New Option shock spring
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