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Old 11-03-2012, 01:00 AM   #1306
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Loosen the screws for the hinge pin holders, push the arm towards the hinge pin holder and tighten it. Then press the arm towards the other hinge pin holder and tighten it.This prevents the hinge pin holders from tweaking when you tighten them, making them square to the arm. Result: arms move freely.
I'll give that a try. I did something similar that worked for the other arm to no avail so I'll give your method a try.
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:39 AM   #1307
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Hi Skiddins,
Did you use the kit 350 shock oil and roll centre positions ??
Yes
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:40 AM   #1308
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Some more racing tonight at Newbury in the UK.

In practice tried 2.7 rear springs so I had the same at both ends. This did increase initial steering and made the car more aggressive, but it resulted in the rear breaking loose if you weren't smooth (virtually how my T3'12 was)

Went back to progressive springs.

Next up, more bump steer. I got a former national winning driver to try my car and he said it had lot of initial but lacked mid.
So I added 1mm of bump steer which helped mid corner, added another 1mm for the final so I ended up running 3mm bump steer.

Also tried a gear diff with 2000cSt instead of 1000cSt.

Although the 2000cSt diff didn't appear much faster, 0.02 etc, it did make the car feel more consistent so I was able to stay closer to my fastest laps more often.

So by the end of the evening had kit carpet setup except; 3mm bump steer, 2000cSt in diff and the rear shocks were in the top hole. LTC-R body.

Car felt very good, got my fastest lap to within 0.25s of our 5 times BRCA national champion Chris Grainger's fastest (which is superb by my standards )

Hopefully they'll put the video's up tomorrow so I'll link to it so you can see the results of the changes
Here we go again, quali 4th (The bright orange car is also a T4);

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:43 AM   #1309
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That's exactly what I did to confirm it is bent. The arm moves free until the blocks are tightened, I tried reaming the arm but the reamer is like a d*ck in a bucket.
Is this specifically a problem with one end of the car?
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Old 11-03-2012, 07:11 AM   #1310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
Loosen the screws for the hinge pin holders, push the arm towards the hinge pin holder and tighten it. Then press the arm towards the other hinge pin holder and tighten it.This prevents the hinge pin holders from tweaking when you tighten them, making them square to the arm. Result: arms move freely.
After installing the arms...tap them lightly with the handle of your driver on the front and rear of the arm near the holder...(something like the Hudy Profi-Tools work well for this as they are plastic and have more weight than the alloy handles)
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Old 11-03-2012, 07:46 AM   #1311
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Some more racing tonight at Newbury in the UK.

In practice tried 2.7 rear springs so I had the same at both ends. This did increase initial steering and made the car more aggressive, but it resulted in the rear breaking loose if you weren't smooth (virtually how my T3'12 was)

Went back to progressive springs.

Next up, more bump steer. I got a former national winning driver to try my car and he said it had lot of initial but lacked mid.
So I added 1mm of bump steer which helped mid corner, added another 1mm for the final so I ended up running 3mm bump steer.

Also tried a gear diff with 2000cSt instead of 1000cSt.

Although the 2000cSt diff didn't appear much faster, 0.02 etc, it did make the car feel more consistent so I was able to stay closer to my fastest laps more often.

So by the end of the evening had kit carpet setup except; 3mm bump steer, 2000cSt in diff and the rear shocks were in the top hole. LTC-R body.

Car felt very good, got my fastest lap to within 0.25s of our 5 times BRCA national champion Chris Grainger's fastest (which is superb by my standards )

Hopefully they'll put the video's up tomorrow so I'll link to it so you can see the results of the changes
When I used the middle on the front bulkhead, my car felt much more consistent. Less roll in the front on initial turn in wich made the rear a lot more stable. With Sorex 28 tires, I started to have grip roll when the grip came up. Move back to in middle hole and the grip roll was gone. But also with my Ride 32 tires, it's a lot better.
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:19 AM   #1312
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I've read some posts saying that the new car has a ton of steering. What about rear grip?
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:09 AM   #1313
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Originally Posted by morgoth View Post
When I used the middle on the front bulkhead, my car felt much more consistent. Less roll in the front on initial turn in wich made the rear a lot more stable. With Sorex 28 tires, I started to have grip roll when the grip came up. Move back to in middle hole and the grip roll was gone. But also with my Ride 32 tires, it's a lot better.
That's too bad. According to the article by Hudy, their whole goal when lowering everything in the car was to reduce traction roll.

I thought my T3'12 was the least prone to traction roll of any car I'd ever driven. Mostly because it never turned, but hey...
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:30 AM   #1314
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Originally Posted by pcar951 View Post
I've read some posts saying that the new car has a ton of steering. What about rear grip?
Rear grip with the kit springs is excellent, it was only tail happy when I tried the 2.7 springs on the rear as well
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Old 11-03-2012, 01:03 PM   #1315
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Thanks Skiddins, I'll be sure to use the kit springs to start with.
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Old 11-03-2012, 01:38 PM   #1316
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Hi everyone, I am thinking of buyng my first electric car - Xray T4......... but the problem is that is not so easy to buy parts to repair the car here in my country.

So I d like to known what spare parts should I buy for my car? What are the most frequents parts needed for repair ?

Can someone post the part numbers, so I can stock them.

Thanks in advance.

GHN
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Old 11-03-2012, 01:43 PM   #1317
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Originally Posted by ghn-sp View Post
Hi everyone, I am thinking of buyng my first electric car - Xray T4......... but the problem is that is not so easy to buy parts to repair the car here in my country.

So I d like to known what spare parts should I buy for my car? What are the most frequents parts needed for repair ?

Can someone post the part numbers, so I can stock them.

Thanks in advance.

GHN
That's tough to say since it is a new car and X-rays are typically so durable. I've broken only a rear hub on my last two cars. Traditionally for most cars you would stock hubs, knuckles, arms, and the washers for the c-hubs. Shims and screws of course are always good to have on hand.
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Old 11-03-2012, 01:50 PM   #1318
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Originally Posted by ghn-sp View Post
Hi everyone, I am thinking of buyng my first electric car - Xray T4......... but the problem is that is not so easy to buy parts to repair the car here in my country.

So I d like to known what spare parts should I buy for my car? What are the most frequents parts needed for repair ?

Can someone post the part numbers, so I can stock them.

Thanks in advance.

GHN
From experience with T3 '12, a replacement rear belt, spool outdrives and front steel driveshaft are must haves, those are the parts I broke in one year of racing. A spur and 20T pulleys along with the front belt will wear so I would replace them after some time. I also bought extra plastics such as the C-hub and lower arms but I didn't break anything (and I bought the car the first week it was released)- these parts are traditionaly the best parts of Xray TCs. Also, have some spare bearings and enjoy your new T4
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:22 PM   #1319
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Is this specifically a problem with one end of the car?
It is only a problem for one corner. The fronts went together perfect and the other rear went together perfect all being free or able to be freed, this one arm cannot be freed do far. I swapped the pin to the opposite side and the issue transferred with the pin.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisP View Post
After installing the arms...tap them lightly with the handle of your driver on the front and rear of the arm near the holder...(something like the Hudy Profi-Tools work well for this as they are plastic and have more weight than the alloy handles)
I'll give this a try also to see if it helps.

This is my fourth Xray so I am familiar with the usual quality and odd trick with the build. I will try all these suggestions to see if they help as every extra trick you can have up your sleeve is a bonus.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions, I'll let you know if they helped.

It won't stop me from driving the car as the suspension still moves freely, just not when it is the arm only without the upright etc. fitted.
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:36 PM   #1320
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Originally Posted by sjh28 View Post
It is only a problem for one corner. The fronts went together perfect and the other rear went together perfect all being free or able to be freed, this one arm cannot be freed do far. I swapped the pin to the opposite side and the issue transferred with the pin.



I'll give this a try also to see if it helps.

This is my fourth Xray so I am familiar with the usual quality and odd trick with the build. I will try all these suggestions to see if they help as every extra trick you can have up your sleeve is a bonus.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions, I'll let you know if they helped.

It won't stop me from driving the car as the suspension still moves freely, just not when it is the arm only without the upright etc. fitted.
Is this a problem on the rear left by any chance.

You might find that the rear front toe block is not pointing inwards as it should (it twists as the screws are tightened)
I posted about this when I built the car.
You need to hold that block pointing inwards with a spanner or pliers while tightening the screws.

Skiddins
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