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Old 10-30-2012, 08:20 AM   #1231
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good
have you tried front differential satellites?
here in spain is widely used
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:27 AM   #1232
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good
have you tried front differential satellites?
here in spain is widely used
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Hi,

You're talking about Side Piece Racing satellites? I don't see them on their website?
Are they in steel?
I'm looking for steel differential pinions to use with Ride 70.
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:02 AM   #1233
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EA I remember that weekend . Sucks that outdoor has almost stopped there... the 2.5" skedule80 pipe claimed a lot of victoms over their life.
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:31 AM   #1234
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The short link on the T4 is .5mm longer than short link on the T3. The rear is .75mm shorter due to the rear being more narrow. This is if my memory serves me correctly when measuring them at IIC.



A few years ago Ralph Burch, Paul L, Drew Ellis and myself went to an asphalt race called Beat the Heat that uses PVC pipe as walls. It was HOT outside (hence the name) and traction is really high there. We were all running the fastest spec class they had...either 13.5 or 10.5. No kidding we went through every set of steering knuckles and plastic out drives we had between the 4 of us. We ended up putting alumn steering blocks on our cars because we all ran out of plastic ones. So on a track that has large pipes or super hard walls anything will break if you hit it hard enough. Even a current WC and WC A main finalist. Just because YOU dont break anything on your track doesnt mean others dont on THEIR track. No two tracks are the same and neither are the walls. Click track is great if its velcroed down. But if its screwed down it dont move much either!

EA
I race on some incredibly unforgiving tracks myself - tracks that have been screwed down - have hit plenty of things but haven't broke anything.

If it was a few years ago you were breaking things, maybe there was a bad batch of steering knuckles?

I've seen all cars break, but some of the things suggested on this forum that they claim are breaking (suspension blocks?) just makes me wonder. I mean, people were claiming x would break even before the car had been released. Some people just want things to fail.
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:57 AM   #1235
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Originally Posted by Nico' View Post
Hi,

You're talking about Side Piece Racing satellites? I don't see them on their website?
Are they in steel?
I'm looking for steel differential pinions to use with Ride 70.

I mean using front differential
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:06 AM   #1236
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no servo post?

how will you hold the servo to the holder?
I'll mount the servo using the inside aluminum servo mount. Then I'll shoe goo the servo to the carbon top piece (making sure not to make the shoe goo visible in the cutout). Trim off the outside tabs of the servo and trim the carbon piece to be flush with the outside of the servo
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:23 AM   #1237
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No joke ... today is my bday and as I blew out my candles Sunday night I wished I would have my car today instead of Thursday and my wish came true ! Lol sometimes it pays to still act like a kid. Lol
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:41 AM   #1238
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Originally Posted by CoreyW. View Post
I was thinking of this as well.

We run the Xray plastic cups without issue and keep in mind we are running mod. They do groove but not as often as some here have suggested. Typically, I will change them once during a racing weekend but not because we absolutely need to, but because I have OCD. All the aftermarket options are great but to be completely honest, they are NOT necessary. Up until this point(coming up on 2 years now), we have had 2 cups break and that was due to running 50mm front shafts. If you are breaking spool cups are grooving them often, you have other problems.
I would argue that 99% of the people on this list have some form of OCD, it's nearly required for onroad racing. The reasons I prefer the SPR aluminum cups to the stock ones are:
- they are stronger as you've mentioned, I run 50mm ECSs.
- over the season they are cheaper, @$14 per pair the plastic spool cups are pretty expensive if I'm replacing even every other week.
- I can literally see when I need to change blades. I cannot for the life of me see when there are grooves in the plastic spool cups, that bugs me, and since I cannot see I end up replacing them more often, reference above point as to why that sucks.

Obviously everyone should do what works for them, just thought I'd share my rationale.

Ethan
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:45 AM   #1239
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
The short link on the T4 is .5mm longer than short link on the T3. The rear is .75mm shorter due to the rear being more narrow. This is if my memory serves me correctly when measuring them at IIC.
I assume you mean the rear link is 0.75mm shorter to to the new mounting points on the rear pivot blocks

The new upper clamps should have their holes in the same position as the T3'12, they have moved out only because of the bulkheads having move inwards.
The front pivot block mounts are the same as the T3'12, so what has moved?

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Old 10-30-2012, 03:42 PM   #1240
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Originally Posted by Mb3195 View Post
exactly how I would have described it.

I found on the t3 that the shorter links would make the car roll just a little bit too much making it "wallowy" especially in high traction, almost like driving a boat.

With the t4 I think as the COG is so much lower, the shorter links now feel a like a cross between the short and medium links on the t3.

short links will give much more traction in low grip conditions - funny enough I was at a meeting a couple of weeks ago where the grip was terrible, yet I saw loads of people switching to the longest links in order to gain traction

I did tell a few of them that they would achieve the opposite, they didnt believe me until they tried it!
I was one of them Mark.

How I understood it was that the short link gives you a more reactive car ( faster weight transfer ) Now I thought if you have low grip you dont want the car to shift the weight to fast as this would make it break traction if there is little grip or possible grip roll on very high traction.

Hence why I went for a softer car ( although mine was to soft ) and longer links.

If Corey could post what set up changes he would make on a very low grip track and explain why that would be great.

Michael
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Old 10-30-2012, 04:31 PM   #1241
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Originally Posted by eds24 View Post
I'll mount the servo using the inside aluminum servo mount. Then I'll shoe goo the servo to the carbon top piece (making sure not to make the shoe goo visible in the cutout). Trim off the outside tabs of the servo and trim the carbon piece to be flush with the outside of the servo
I'd be careful having the servo as high as possible against the carbon plate as this might cause the servo link to foul on the top deck, it does get close.

You could mount the link in the lower position on the servo saver, but this would reduce the steering speed and resolution.

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Old 10-30-2012, 04:35 PM   #1242
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I was one of them Mark.

How I understood it was that the short link gives you a more reactive car ( faster weight transfer ) Now I thought if you have low grip you dont want the car to shift the weight to fast as this would make it break traction if there is little grip or possible grip roll on very high traction.

Hence why I went for a softer car ( although mine was to soft ) and longer links.

If Corey could post what set up changes he would make on a very low grip track and explain why that would be great.

Michael
I feel the same way. When grip is lower I feel like the longer link, especially in the rear, eases the car into turns, rather than transitioning the weight quickly.
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Old 10-30-2012, 04:36 PM   #1243
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
I'd be careful having the servo as high as possible against the carbon plate as this might cause the servo link to foul on the top deck, it does get close.

You could mount the link in the lower position on the servo saver, but this would reduce the steering speed and resolution.

Skiddins
You might also not be able to get full throw with the servo link mounted lower.
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Old 10-30-2012, 04:41 PM   #1244
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You could mount the link in the lower position on the servo saver, but this would reduce the steering speed and resolution.

Skiddins
Yes but it makes the steering much more precise
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Old 10-30-2012, 04:43 PM   #1245
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You might also not be able to get full throw with the servo link mounted lower.
you will need to trim a little off the servo saver
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