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Old 10-30-2012, 01:15 AM   #1216
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Originally Posted by RCing15 View Post
The Nikita's use blades but contact point with the
blades have a bigger surface area. The blades and
outdrives last longer.
Where do you buy Nikita please?
Are they made of aluminium or spring steel please?
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Old 10-30-2012, 05:54 AM   #1217
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Where do you buy Nikita please?
Are they made of aluminium or spring steel please?
http://sidepieceracing.com/products/nikita/

They also have a company discussion forum:
Side Piece Racing

Mike Hanulec provides excellent support for the products. The site will tell you all you need to know. They come highly recommended.

Regards,
Ian (Andrew Hardman's Dad)
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Old 10-30-2012, 06:54 AM   #1218
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
Not sure what u mean . Do they not use blades ?
Justin,

I have some I can show you next time your up. I have an extra set too possibly.

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Old 10-30-2012, 07:19 AM   #1219
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Yes, sorry, the inner upper link positions and their effect at either end.
If you shorten either link you will will be affecting camber gain. Shortening a camber link will increase camber gain and lenghtening will reduce camber gain. Both of which happen during compression of the suspension. Shortening a link gives the car a more reactive feel and lenghtening will make the car feel unrepsonsive. Also, if you run short links, you can get away with less static camber to improve tire wear, and most importantly, improved forward bite.

Short front/rear link:

-More camber gain
-Increased traction
-Increased turn-in
-Increased transition speed

-Reduced on power steering
-Chance of traction rolling is higher *when using short front link*

Hope this helps.
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:25 AM   #1220
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Originally Posted by AARON YOUNG View Post
How about using 2 mm longer screws that will bottom out against each other inside the spool and allow 2mm of movement by the spool cups . Could be risky since the flat spots that are on the spool cups are about 3mm .
I was thinking of this as well.

We run the Xray plastic cups without issue and keep in mind we are running mod. They do groove but not as often as some here have suggested. Typically, I will change them once during a racing weekend but not because we absolutely need to, but because I have OCD. All the aftermarket options are great but to be completely honest, they are NOT necessary. Up until this point(coming up on 2 years now), we have had 2 cups break and that was due to running 50mm front shafts. If you are breaking spool cups are grooving them often, you have other problems.
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:26 AM   #1221
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Originally Posted by veecee View Post
Were you running DCJ's?
See above ^^
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:37 AM   #1222
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But remember Corey -- most folks don't drive like Andrew . plastic cups break a bunch for the average racer
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:40 AM   #1223
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Originally Posted by CoreyW. View Post
If you shorten either link you will will be affecting camber gain. Shortening a camber link will increase camber gain and lenghtening will reduce camber gain. Both of which happen during compression of the suspension. Shortening a link gives the car a more reactive feel and lenghtening will make the car feel unrepsonsive. Also, if you run short links, you can get away with less static camber to improve tire wear, and most importantly, improved forward bite.

Short front/rear link:

-More camber gain
-Increased traction
-Increased turn-in
-Increased transition speed

-Reduced on power steering
-Chance of traction rolling is higher *when using short front link*

Hope this helps.
exactly how I would have described it.

I found on the t3 that the shorter links would make the car roll just a little bit too much making it "wallowy" especially in high traction, almost like driving a boat.

With the t4 I think as the COG is so much lower, the shorter links now feel a like a cross between the short and medium links on the t3.

short links will give much more traction in low grip conditions - funny enough I was at a meeting a couple of weeks ago where the grip was terrible, yet I saw loads of people switching to the longest links in order to gain traction

I did tell a few of them that they would achieve the opposite, they didnt believe me until they tried it!
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:44 AM   #1224
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
But remember Corey -- most folks don't drive like Andrew . plastic cups break a bunch for the average racer
I'm amazed at some of the things I hear broken on this forum:-
spool cups
chassis
suspension blocks
rear belts

the list goes on.

Yet in 18 months that I have had an xray, I have broken one single hub carrier and nothing else.

I cannot understand how people are breaking some of the things that are mentioned.
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:48 AM   #1225
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Originally Posted by eds24 View Post

I think the silver turned out looking pretty good on it as well oh.. and I know I'm missing my servo post.. I won't be using it also noticed I need to adjust my shock collars haha
no servo post?

how will you hold the servo to the holder?
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:52 AM   #1226
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
But remember Corey -- most folks don't drive like Andrew . plastic cups break a bunch for the average racer
This may be true, BUT Andrew has had some gnarly crashes in the past but we didn't have any issues. Also, we have many guys running Xray at our home track(many of which are our old cars) and I have not seen or heard of of any cups breaking. I dont mean to take away any of your business Hanulec but I think people must realize there is more IMPORTANT things to worry about that cups breaking.
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:57 AM   #1227
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Originally Posted by Mb3195 View Post
I'm amazed at some of the things I hear broken on this forum:-
spool cups
chassis
suspension blocks
rear belts

the list goes on.

Yet in 18 months that I have had an xray, I have broken one single hub carrier and nothing else.

I cannot understand how people are breaking some of the things that are mentioned.
Its only a few people, thats the difference. I cannot count the amount of races I have been to or the amount of cars I have seen crash but the Xray cars survive nearly 90% of what I have seen. This past weekend I watched crashes involving Xrays that just blew my mind, but somehow they finish the race. Most durable car on the market without a doubt!
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:59 AM   #1228
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Originally Posted by CoreyW. View Post
This may be true, BUT Andrew has had some gnarly crashes in the past but we didn't have any issues. Also, we have many guys running Xray at our home track(many of which are our old cars) and I have not seen or heard of of any cups breaking. I dont mean to take away any of your business Hanulec but I think people must realize there is more IMPORTANT things to worry about that cups breaking.
Corey, I know a number of the local racers use Mike's spool cups - maybe that is why the breaking isn't an issue .

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Old 10-30-2012, 07:59 AM   #1229
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Originally Posted by Mb3195 View Post
exactly how I would have described it.

I found on the t3 that the shorter links would make the car roll just a little bit too much making it "wallowy" especially in high traction, almost like driving a boat.

With the t4 I think as the COG is so much lower, the shorter links now feel a like a cross between the short and medium links on the t3.

short links will give much more traction in low grip conditions - funny enough I was at a meeting a couple of weeks ago where the grip was terrible, yet I saw loads of people switching to the longest links in order to gain traction

I did tell a few of them that they would achieve the opposite, they didnt believe me until they tried it!
The short link on the T4 is .5mm longer than short link on the T3. The rear is .75mm shorter due to the rear being more narrow. This is if my memory serves me correctly when measuring them at IIC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mb3195 View Post
I'm amazed at some of the things I hear broken on this forum:-
spool cups
chassis
suspension blocks
rear belts

the list goes on.

Yet in 18 months that I have had an xray, I have broken one single hub carrier and nothing else.

I cannot understand how people are breaking some of the things that are mentioned.
A few years ago Ralph Burch, Paul L, Drew Ellis and myself went to an asphalt race called Beat the Heat that uses PVC pipe as walls. It was HOT outside (hence the name) and traction is really high there. We were all running the fastest spec class they had...either 13.5 or 10.5. No kidding we went through every set of steering knuckles and plastic out drives we had between the 4 of us. We ended up putting alumn steering blocks on our cars because we all ran out of plastic ones. So on a track that has large pipes or super hard walls anything will break if you hit it hard enough. Even a current WC and WC A main finalist. Just because YOU dont break anything on your track doesnt mean others dont on THEIR track. No two tracks are the same and neither are the walls. Click track is great if its velcroed down. But if its screwed down it dont move much either!

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Old 10-30-2012, 08:08 AM   #1230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADHSponser View Post
http://sidepieceracing.com/products/nikita/

They also have a company discussion forum:
Side Piece Racing

Mike Hanulec provides excellent support for the products. The site will tell you all you need to know. They come highly recommended.

Regards,
Ian (Andrew Hardman's Dad)
thanks a lot!
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