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Old 10-21-2012, 05:16 PM   #886
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Originally Posted by morgoth View Post
Short, low front link and a long rear link. I tried the short front link and my car had too much roll in the front. The rearend was less predictable and my overal steering increased a little imo. The car was more stable with the medium front link. And after adding a 0.5mm link, the frontend was a bit calmer. I could push the car pretty hard and it was fast in the chicanes.

I should have tried a 2mm shim on the rearbulkhead, but 1mm was also great
Cheers.
Are the roll bars correct or do you have them the wrong way around?

Also, did you try the rear diff in the low position as well?

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Old 10-21-2012, 06:18 PM   #887
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Ran my T4 today compared to my IIC car that I qualified 2nd with in Stock. The T4 was .3 faster on fast lap and way easier to drive. I just didnt have much driver today and just hit everything....I guess it was too easy to drive.

Bad note....I would probably go ahead and do the bumper mod that someone posted here and also glue the front screw holes on your chassis. I did neither and tapped the sweeper that shot me into the outside wall head on wide open. It barely pulled a screw head through a layer of graphite but didnt ruin it. I took the screw out, glued everything (like I shold have originally) and it was fine the rest of the day. I even hit some stuff a lot harder than the sweeper hit and no issues.

EA
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Old 10-21-2012, 06:51 PM   #888
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can u share your setup sheet?
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Old 10-21-2012, 06:55 PM   #889
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
Ran my T4 today compared to my IIC car that I qualified 2nd with in Stock. The T4 was .3 faster on fast lap and way easier to drive. I just didnt have much driver today and just hit everything....I guess it was too easy to drive.

Bad note....I would probably go ahead and do the bumper mod that someone posted here and also glue the front screw holes on your chassis. I did neither and tapped the sweeper that shot me into the outside wall head on wide open. It barely pulled a screw head through a layer of graphite but didnt ruin it. I took the screw out, glued everything (like I shold have originally) and it was fine the rest of the day. I even hit some stuff a lot harder than the sweeper hit and no issues.

EA
Thanks for the heads up, did you change much on your T4?
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:12 PM   #890
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What other bits are interchangable from the T3'12 to the T4? Specifically Option parts?

Center car weights?
Alu Spring retainer?
Alu Steering arm?
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:47 PM   #891
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Originally Posted by Sleepstream View Post
What other bits are interchangable from the T3'12 to the T4? Specifically Option parts?

Center car weights?
Alu Spring retainer?
Alu Steering arm?
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...Name=XRAY%20T4

scroll down to the
T1 & T2 & T3 & T4 Parts Cross Reference Table download near the bottom
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:57 PM   #892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
Ran my T4 today compared to my IIC car that I qualified 2nd with in Stock. The T4 was .3 faster on fast lap and way easier to drive. I just didnt have much driver today and just hit everything....I guess it was too easy to drive.

Bad note....I would probably go ahead and do the bumper mod that someone posted here and also glue the front screw holes on your chassis. I did neither and tapped the sweeper that shot me into the outside wall head on wide open. It barely pulled a screw head through a layer of graphite but didnt ruin it. I took the screw out, glued everything (like I shold have originally) and it was fine the rest of the day. I even hit some stuff a lot harder than the sweeper hit and no issues.

EA
anyone have the picture for the bumper mode
thanks
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:59 PM   #893
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I understand there is room for improvement on the bladders? Is it possible to get 0 rebound if desired?

Anyone have a good starting setup for VTA? I imagine the lower CG will change things. Any recommendations on gear diff oil as well?

I hope for a running change on the bumper soon. It should have never been.

Humm....waiting...waiting...can't wait.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
I managed to get about 50% rebound when building straight out of the packet.

They go together easily. Also seems like the edges of the bladders are slightly thicker (the point screwing the cap on between the cap first touching the bladder and the cap being tight has greatly reduced) and I think the cap has limited travel so it's harder to pinch the bladder.

Can't remember what Tamiya shocks are like as I haven't used a set in years but these latest Xray shocks are simple to build and appear to be very smooth once built.

I did notice that the pistons seemed to be almost slightly undersized when first put together.
I'm assuming that after spending some time soaking in the oil that they expand slightly.

Skiddins

Last edited by RCknight; 10-21-2012 at 11:27 PM.
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:04 PM   #894
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Originally Posted by liteweight View Post
anyone have the picture for the bumper mode
thanks
all you do is replace the front bumper with the one from t3 12' and the 2 posts from the t3 12' as well

if you look at the t3 '12 manual you will see the part numbers and compare from the t4
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:08 PM   #895
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Originally Posted by rescue119 View Post
all you do is replace the front bumper with the one from t3 12' and the 2 posts from the t3 12' as well

if you look at the t3 '12 manual you will see the part numbers and compare from the t4
cool thanks
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:27 PM   #896
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Originally Posted by trigger View Post
For 17.5 and 13.6 I use 96 t.
and what pinion and what ratio are you getting as i run in the 17.5 as well so trying to figure out what pinions i might need. I use 105spur and 38 pinion in my ta05ifsv2 give me 5.60 fdr
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:53 AM   #897
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Cheers.
Are the roll bars correct or do you have them the wrong way around?

Also, did you try the rear diff in the low position as well?

Skiddins
Woops, the rollbars are wrong. I was a little tired last night after the race and made a mistake I was running 1.4mm in the front and 1.2mm in the rear. Thanks for noticing.

I'll fill in the setupsheet again, but in a PDF. Somehow the info was displayed wrong after I saved the setup sheet so I made a screenshot of it.

I haven't ran the diff in the low position. I hope the track layout doesn't change for the next practice session so I can test some more stuff. I also need to test a 2mm shim on the rearbulkhead instead of 1mm.

@RC-knight: No the bladders are fine. With the old shocks, you could break the bladder when tightening the cap too much. With the alu shocks, it has a stop build in. Now you can't tighten it more then you should so you won't tear any bladders from tightening it too much. And the shock is more consistent too after rebuilds :-)
I'd go with 2000 oil in the geardiff as a starting point from medium grip carpet.
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:11 AM   #898
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Oh ok great, thanks, and I'll start with 2000.

Quote:
Originally Posted by morgoth View Post
@RC-knight: No the bladders are fine. With the old shocks, you could break the bladder when tightening the cap too much. With the alu shocks, it has a stop build in. Now you can't tighten it more then you should so you won't tear any bladders from tightening it too much. And the shock is more consistent too after rebuilds :-)
I'd go with 2000 oil in the geardiff as a starting point from medium grip carpet.
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:37 AM   #899
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Any shops have a good selection of xray parts in the US?
Cannot find 301321 anywhere online, except the UK
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:00 AM   #900
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Originally Posted by Sean B. View Post
Any shops have a good selection of xray parts in the US?
Cannot find 301321 anywhere online, except the UK
www.nexusracing.com has a good selection.
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