R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-19-2012, 09:29 AM   #826
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: London
Posts: 83
Default

Hi guys! What effects would be impossed on the car if a) there was no rebound instead of 100% rebound and b) if the diffs were run hi instead if low?
RSCosworth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 09:41 AM   #827
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,526
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
Let me ask this . If u set shocks to zero rebound building them ,I'm thiking this pulls a vacume once shocks r installed on car since they r sitting with about 7-9mm of shock shaft showing . With that being said , if a person was to build the shocks with 7-9mm of shaft showing so when car is sitting at ride height their is no pressure or vacume inside the shocks . Is their a reason this isn't the preferred way to build any shock . I built my photon shocks like this and I never "never" had to rebuild shock cause of them having air in them ....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpress View Post
Finally somebody gets it!
Maybe it's coincidence, but I tend to try and build with 30-50% rebound anyway, which probably achieves what you're saying.
I hardly ever have to rebuild as well.
__________________
Xray T4'16, T4'14 (Wet Car)
Xray X12 2016
Xray X1'16
wlrc.co.uk (West London Racing Centre)
RD Disco
Skiddins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 09:42 AM   #828
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,526
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RSCosworth View Post
Hi guys! What effects would be impossed on the car if a) there was no rebound instead of 100% rebound and b) if the diffs were run hi instead if low?
They say that the higher the grip, the less rebound you should use, but it really seems to depend on the track and whether it has any bumps etc as well.

Can't recall on the diff's, have you checked the manual
__________________
Xray T4'16, T4'14 (Wet Car)
Xray X12 2016
Xray X1'16
wlrc.co.uk (West London Racing Centre)
RD Disco
Skiddins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 10:05 AM   #829
Tech Elite
 
bvoltz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bedtime with Teddi
Posts: 3,635
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

On the topic of rebound - Per Paully "The Deader the Better." Yes there are exceptions, but this is the general rule.
__________________
Wheeling an Xray T4 and T4 14 using a Ko Propo, powered by EA motors and Speed Passion Speedo, paid for by my wife.

Digi3Dworks - 3D printing for the medical Field.
bvoltz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 10:10 AM   #830
Tech Master
 
samnelso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Fitchburg, MA
Posts: 1,751
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I always think of the diff height as an influencer of on-power and braking fore/aft weight transfer, although there may be other explanations as to its effect. My reasoning to this is that the moments about the car's CG due to the belt tensions during power and braking effect the cars attitude, or at least its fore/aft weight transfer. Nevertheless, to me the changes are hard to notice on the track, at least in blinky 17.5.

Raise the front diff height: more on-power rear weight xfer (i.e. more squat), less dive under braking.

Lower the front diff height: opposite of above.

Raise the rear diff height: less rear squat on-power, more dive under braking.

Lower the rear diff height: opposite of above.
__________________
Team Associated | Reedy | Airtronics

RC Excitement: Fitchburg, MA | RC Madness: Enfield, CT | Horsham RC
samnelso is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 10:37 AM   #831
Tech Elite
 
jlfx car audio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: jackson,tn
Posts: 3,142
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Seems to me a shock would be more consistent thru its travel (wile raceing) just a few mm +- the static ride height.
I mean if shock is built using 8mm shaft exposed . But has no foam and has hold drilled in cap would it not push inand stay within a few mm of that area? Only think iI think would be trying to push it out would be the pressure on the Blatter. Where as if u build shock to 0mm when ur car is setting at ride height or racing on the track the blatter is always sucked down (pulling a vacuum) and would eventually draw air into it self
__________________
Justin & Matt Lyons
Awesomatix USA, EA motorsports, Sanwa, Protoform, Avid, Gravity Rc , TSR!
a800s sanwa m12s
jlfx car audio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 10:39 AM   #832
Tech Elite
 
jlfx car audio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: jackson,tn
Posts: 3,142
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

What u think Christian T ?lol when u going g to get some X-ray parts in stock ?
I'm waiting g to order once ur springs and spool cups come back in stock
__________________
Justin & Matt Lyons
Awesomatix USA, EA motorsports, Sanwa, Protoform, Avid, Gravity Rc , TSR!
a800s sanwa m12s
jlfx car audio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 12:28 PM   #833
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,526
Default

Just tried fitting pinions with the kit spur (84t, 48dp).

Trying to get at the pinion set screw with the motor in it's position is a pain in the ar$e, the hole underneath, just like the T3'12 in central, trouble is, now the motor is more central, so is the pinion. It's teeth are right above the hole.

So far I have removed the motor and put the pinion on, once the edge of the pinions I use (RW Racing) is flush with the face of the pinion shaft I know it will line up perfectly.

On the plus side;
Using the new mount I managed to get a 35t pinion (4.56fdr) down to a 15t (10.64fdr) before the motor started fouling on the layshaft mount. It's on the limit of access to the motor screws though
__________________
Xray T4'16, T4'14 (Wet Car)
Xray X12 2016
Xray X1'16
wlrc.co.uk (West London Racing Centre)
RD Disco
Skiddins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 02:55 PM   #834
Tech Elite
 
morgoth's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Belgium
Posts: 2,518
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Just tried fitting pinions with the kit spur (84t, 48dp).

Trying to get at the pinion set screw with the motor in it's position is a pain in the ar$e, the hole underneath, just like the T3'12 in central, trouble is, now the motor is more central, so is the pinion. It's teeth are right above the hole.

So far I have removed the motor and put the pinion on, once the edge of the pinions I use (RW Racing) is flush with the face of the pinion shaft I know it will line up perfectly.

On the plus side;
Using the new mount I managed to get a 35t pinion (4.56fdr) down to a 15t (10.64fdr) before the motor started fouling on the layshaft mount. It's on the limit of access to the motor screws though
If the pinion is flipped, you can tighten it with the handle of the hex driver on the front shock tower.
__________________
Serpent BeNeLux teamdriver // FX Engines // Nitrolux fuel
My blog: http://scrubbingspeed.wordpress.com
morgoth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 04:33 PM   #835
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Grand Haven, MI
Posts: 677
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Sean B. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 05:11 PM   #836
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Western Australia
Posts: 314
Default

HAs anyone thought of a way to protect the bottom of the chassis? I run on a large outdoor trach with kerbs that are curved but about 1.5-2 inches higher that the road. With my sakura every time i went over one it would scrach the frp chassis pretty bad.
Is there abyting i could put on the bottom of the chassis to help lessen the scratches that may or may not damage the carbon chassis of the t4?
__________________
Tamiya F104 V2, TT-01E CS Drifter
XRAY T4 '13
Yokomo R12C3
d.k.vmatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 05:32 PM   #837
Regional Moderator
 
CarbonJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,660
Default

Clear adhesive shelf liner? If you can't find that, even duct tape will work in a pinch, but it will leave residue behind when you remove it.
__________________
*** The Gate - Celebrating 7 years at the same location ***
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. - Albert Einstein
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
CarbonJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 05:52 PM   #838
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,526
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by d.k.vmatt View Post
HAs anyone thought of a way to protect the bottom of the chassis? I run on a large outdoor trach with kerbs that are curved but about 1.5-2 inches higher that the road. With my sakura every time i went over one it would scrach the frp chassis pretty bad.
Is there abyting i could put on the bottom of the chassis to help lessen the scratches that may or may not damage the carbon chassis of the t4?
I usually have a piece of cell tape down each side of the car underneath.

You'll get the odd scratch in the middle, but most chassis damage seems to be near the edges, particularly near the motor.
__________________
Xray T4'16, T4'14 (Wet Car)
Xray X12 2016
Xray X1'16
wlrc.co.uk (West London Racing Centre)
RD Disco
Skiddins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 06:03 PM   #839
Tech Elite
 
bvoltz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bedtime with Teddi
Posts: 3,635
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean B. View Post
Waiting on the new toy to show up....
Attached Images
 
__________________
Wheeling an Xray T4 and T4 14 using a Ko Propo, powered by EA motors and Speed Passion Speedo, paid for by my wife.

Digi3Dworks - 3D printing for the medical Field.
bvoltz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2012, 12:46 AM   #840
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 76
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by d.k.vmatt View Post
HAs anyone thought of a way to protect the bottom of the chassis? I run on a large outdoor trach with kerbs that are curved but about 1.5-2 inches higher that the road. With my sakura every time i went over one it would scrach the frp chassis pretty bad.
Is there abyting i could put on the bottom of the chassis to help lessen the scratches that may or may not damage the carbon chassis of the t4?
One thing I've been told about is a clear film that can be bought which is usually used as a headlight protector. It is clear so you can still see the carbon fibre if that is real important to you and it is designed to absorb impact.

I'm yet to try, but I might for the T4 which is due next week.
__________________
He who dies with the most toys wins, if it's a tie, then it's he with the best.
sjh28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Xray T3 2012 rasta_man Electric On-Road 4220 11-09-2016 02:45 PM
RC10B4/T4 Forum DerekL Electric Off-Road 14331 01-01-2016 03:18 PM
****HUGE AE T4 TRUCK TIRE SALE *** CRCDUDE R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 32 08-23-2010 09:55 AM


Tags
xray t4


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:06 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0