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Old 10-19-2012, 04:22 AM   #811
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So far I've just been too eager to assemble new cars to bother with sanding and sealing edges on any of them. Never had any cracking or delamination issues and I've had some hard crashes over the past couple of years. I might spend the time to do it on my T4 when it finally gets here, using orange or maybe white nail polish I honestly don't think it makes much of a difference though.
Orange nail polish! I like that idea.
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Old 10-19-2012, 05:14 AM   #812
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What us the reason to seal the edges of the carbon? I haven't done it to my Sakura top deck and its still perfectly fine.
Topdecks shouldn't be sealed. Only the chassis and shocktowers on offroad buggies.
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Old 10-19-2012, 05:21 AM   #813
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Same here.

Very surprised that the even with the hole in the top plastic part (where the pivot ball fits for mounting) I don't end up with zero rebound, although I did use the foam insert, perhaps that's the difference.

I didn't actually want zero rebound anyway so that's great. Zero doesn't suit every track.

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The only way to achieve zero rebound, is to unscrew the bottom cap 3 turns and move the shaft down until the O ring comes out a little and starts too leak oil. I rebuilded my shocks yesterday, and I couldn't get less than 75% rebound with swollen bladders. When my bladders were still new, I could get around 50% rebound. I'll take them out after Q1 or Q2 and see if there's a difference.

I'll be racing my first race of the indoor season on sunday with the T4 on carpet and I have build my shocks with 10% rebound and 350 oil. The foams are still in the shocks. Forgot to take them on when I rebuilded them after testing.
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Old 10-19-2012, 05:46 AM   #814
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I have had an idea about a 'cure' for the bumper brace not touching the bulkheads.

I have ordered a second top bumper brace and will attempt to mount it upside down, sandwiched on top of the original.

I will let you all know how it goes.
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:00 AM   #815
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The only way to achieve zero rebound, is to unscrew the bottom cap 3 turns and move the shaft down until the O ring comes out a little and starts too leak oil. I rebuilded my shocks yesterday, and I couldn't get less than 75% rebound with swollen bladders. When my bladders were still new, I could get around 50% rebound. I'll take them out after Q1 or Q2 and see if there's a difference.

I'll be racing my first race of the indoor season on sunday with the T4 on carpet and I have build my shocks with 10% rebound and 350 oil. The foams are still in the shocks. Forgot to take them on when I rebuilded them after testing.

I will release T-Shox in a short version which will fit the T4 perfectly very soon.
True Zero rebound, easy and they dont change during runs. You will love them if you get em
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:16 AM   #816
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I will release T-Shox in a short version which will fit the T4 perfectly very soon.
True Zero rebound, easy and they dont change during runs. You will love them if you get em
Yea, I saw them on a friend his BD-7 and they looked good! I wonder what the price will be and how they'll perform
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:26 AM   #817
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Hi,

I wonder if it's a good thing to have the top bumper to touch the bulkheads?
I have a T4 now and on my BD5 the bumper didn't touch any bulkheads and there was no worry.
before my T4 I had T3 2012 with the top bumper touching the bulkheads and during a not very hard crash, the topdeck broke.
Maybe on my BD5 the main chassis never broke but was tweaked?
I don't know what is the best, to touch or not the bulkheads?
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:31 AM   #818
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Easier way..........hold chassis vertical, with med viscosity CA glue put a drop at the top of the chassis and it will track down the edge, put another drop where the track stops until the edge is sealed then do the other side.

BB
That has never worked for me... maybe my method is wrong, but it always trickles about an inch and then beads up again. Maybe Im not using the right CA.

Anyway, I just cut a short piece of the thin plastic tubing that comes with most CA... let the CA flow out until there is a bead on the tip of the tubing, then use the tubing to spread it along the edge of the chassis. After Im done CAing the chassis, I will typically go over the edge again with 1200grit paper to get the super smooth finish.
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:45 AM   #819
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Let me ask this . If u set shocks to zero rebound building them ,I'm thiking this pulls a vacume once shocks r installed on car since they r sitting with about 7-9mm of shock shaft showing . With that being said , if a person was to build the shocks with 7-9mm of shaft showing so when car is sitting at ride height their is no pressure or vacume inside the shocks . Is their a reason this isn't the preferred way to build any shock . I built my photon shocks like this and I never "never" had to rebuild shock cause of them having air in them ....
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:49 AM   #820
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Chassis edging technique I use is using thin CA and Qtips . Drowned the Qtip in CA then role it down edge of chassis with very little pressure quickly . I usually have to do this 3times to get it thick as desired buts its so easy. Be prepared to use about 10qtips tho lol
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:49 AM   #821
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Originally Posted by Nico' View Post
Hi,

I wonder if it's a good thing to have the top bumper to touch the bulkheads?
I have a T4 now and on my BD5 the bumper didn't touch any bulkheads and there was no worry.
before my T4 I had T3 2012 with the top bumper touching the bulkheads and during a not very hard crash, the topdeck broke.
Maybe on my BD5 the main chassis never broke but was tweaked?
I don't know what is the best, to touch or not the bulkheads?
The T3'12, the brace doesn't quite touch, only in an impact where it helps to even out the force of the impact.

With the T4 as it is (similar to Tamiya also) in a big front impact the bumper braces (upper and lower) will be bent up and back in the impact. As they do so the front of the chassis is exposed to impact.
Most of the time your right, it won't matter, but I have seen chassis crack and split from front impacts on other cars.

I'd rather not take the risk on some of the high speed asphalt tracks I go to.

If you only do blinky on carpet you're probably not going to get the impact speeds to do the damage.

Skiddins
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:53 AM   #822
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Might not but if it stop me getting a carbon splinter in my hand then its worth it, I got one from a carbon fishing rod a few years ago, it was a right b!tch to get out
I think you would be more likely to get a splinter while doing all the chassis prep than you would from an "un-prepped" chassis.

Any chassis I've ever had I just simply lightly file the sharp corners and then blue loctite. Never an issue. I don't know where the "have to seal your chassis" instructions originated. Maybe it was something that was once needed and has just perpetuated or perhaps it's for a 1:10000 scenario I've never encountered.
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:19 AM   #823
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Default front bumper area

I believe it was with the 09' car ------where it started. Could have been 08'.

But it was for the front bumper area only.
That is all the instructions ever recommended sealing.


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Old 10-19-2012, 08:00 AM   #824
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The manual also recommends using CA glue on the countersunk holes, helps to reinforce the holes to prevent crews pulling through in an accident.
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:51 AM   #825
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
Let me ask this . If u set shocks to zero rebound building them ,I'm thiking this pulls a vacume once shocks r installed on car since they r sitting with about 7-9mm of shock shaft showing . With that being said , if a person was to build the shocks with 7-9mm of shaft showing so when car is sitting at ride height their is no pressure or vacume inside the shocks . Is their a reason this isn't the preferred way to build any shock . I built my photon shocks like this and I never "never" had to rebuild shock cause of them having air in them ....
Finally somebody gets it!
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