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Old 10-18-2012, 05:37 PM   #796
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thanks guys..........

and it says to do it in the first pages of the manual so I would think it should be done...
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:38 PM   #797
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I've always been a fan of rounding the edges of the chassis as well to prevent it from catching and 'peeling'....

A rounded edge is less likely to catch and pull during an impact and is more likely to bump up or slide over a sharp edge....IMO anyway....
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:50 PM   #798
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whats a good CA for doing the chassis...i never owned a chassis like this before so it will be my first time sanding it etc.....
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What us the reason to seal the edges of the carbon? I haven't done it to my Sakura top deck and its still perfectly fine.
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Sanding and sealing the edges helps prevent chassis delamination in a crash. It's not a 100% solution but it helps. At least that's what I've always been told (and read).
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I've always been a fan of rounding the edges of the chassis as well to prevent it from catching and 'peeling'....

A rounded edge is less likely to catch and pull during an impact and is more likely to bump up or slide over a sharp edge....IMO anyway....
It helps the chassis run more smoothly over carpet if the chassis is slightly too low.
A shock tower that's untouched and a finished chassis, remember,the edges on both look the same to begin with.
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:03 PM   #799
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It looks very smooth and clean, but it's such a tedious process that I stopped doing it on my last few chasses. I haven't noticed any difference. For outdoor running, I noticed the rounded edges eventually get worn and messy looking either way.
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Old 10-18-2012, 11:10 PM   #800
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I use black nail polish instead of CA to seal the edges. It's a lot easier to apply on the chassis compared to the CA and way cheaper too. I apply a minimum of 2 layers.

It's also easier for the acetone to take the out substance if you get some on the flat sides of the chassis and for repairs.

I even apply it on the countersunk holes. Its been holding up pretty well for almost a year now
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:42 AM   #801
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Pre-ordered my T4. Upgrading from my Photon but I may keep the Photon still. First time building up an X-Ray car brand new. Hope the quality is all its cracked up to be.

Just looking over the stock asphalt setup sheet. For those that have the car already, it calls out for 350cst all around, thats like 30wt.....isn't that way too soft?
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:49 AM   #802
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Pre-ordered my T4. Upgrading from my Photon but I may keep the Photon still. First time building up an X-Ray car brand new. Hope the quality is all its cracked up to be.

Just looking over the stock asphalt setup sheet. For those that have the car already, it calls out for 350cst all around, thats like 30wt.....isn't that way too soft?
The car needs to be softer than the previous cars due to the very low and central cog. This is in order to get the car to roll a bit.

My car feels super soft by hand, I hated it too soft on the t3 but this feel totally different driving it.

The benefit of having it soft is that it will generate more overall grip, normally too soft makes the car very boaty to drive, this isn't the case with the t4.
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:55 AM   #803
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Built mine over the last 2 evenings well spent 12 hours IMHO, shocks are amazing first time no air perfect rebound well done xray,
If anyone was wondering or thinking of trying, the yokomo bd7 1 piece servo mount fits perfectly the located lug between the screws is slightly smaller but the screws hold it perfectly! And inline.
It might not be orange but it is a 1 piece design, I doubt their is a performance advantage but its slightly heavier and I need more weight over that side because of heavy lipo's!
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:35 AM   #804
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I sand the edge with 400-600 grid sandpaper and then apply a layer of CA glue with a cotton swab. I soak it with CA and then apply it to the chassis. You'll have to use a few cotton swabs, because they harden after a 10-15 seconds because of the glue.
Easier way..........hold chassis vertical, with med viscosity CA glue put a drop at the top of the chassis and it will track down the edge, put another drop where the track stops until the edge is sealed then do the other side.

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Old 10-19-2012, 02:32 AM   #805
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What did you have to modify?
Nothing, it fit right in. It's a bit wide though so it's possible it doesn't clear the topdeck on the T4.
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Old 10-19-2012, 02:44 AM   #806
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...shocks are amazing, first time, no air, perfect rebound. Well done xray....
Same here.

Very surprised that the even with the hole in the top plastic part (where the pivot ball fits for mounting) I don't end up with zero rebound, although I did use the foam insert, perhaps that's the difference.

I didn't actually want zero rebound anyway so that's great. Zero doesn't suit every track.

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Old 10-19-2012, 03:36 AM   #807
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It helps the chassis run more smoothly over carpet if the chassis is slightly too low.
A shock tower that's untouched and a finished chassis, remember,the edges on both look the same to begin with.
[IMG][/IMG]
Their is a school of thought that thinks gluing the chassis up reduces the flex of the carbon!?!
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:39 AM   #808
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Anyway built my T4 up over that last few days also. As with anything Xray awesome!

Going to the track this evening and cant wait to get it ripping to see how it feels!

Ill get a pick up in a bit went all out everything possible is orange!
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:59 AM   #809
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So far I've just been too eager to assemble new cars to bother with sanding and sealing edges on any of them. Never had any cracking or delamination issues and I've had some hard crashes over the past couple of years. I might spend the time to do it on my T4 when it finally gets here, using orange or maybe white nail polish I honestly don't think it makes much of a difference though.
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Old 10-19-2012, 04:08 AM   #810
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: I honestly don't think it makes much of a difference though.

Might not but if it stop me getting a carbon splinter in my hand then its worth it, I got one from a carbon fishing rod a few years ago, it was a right b!tch to get out
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