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Old 10-17-2012, 12:46 PM   #751
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Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Not what I was looking for.

In the end it seems as if, like with other cars, I have to drill the shock cap (part number 308333) myself.

Any comment on using the shock foam insert? I mean as to using it or not.

What are the preferences as to the use of 3- or 4-hole piston?
No foam...
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Old 10-17-2012, 12:46 PM   #752
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Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Not what I was looking for.

In the end it seems as if, like with other cars, I have to drill the shock cap (part number 308333) myself.

Any comment on using the shock foam insert? I mean as to using it or not.

What are the preferences as to the use of 3- or 4-hole piston?
There is no sense is having the hole in the cap if you run the foam insert, as it blocks the hole. So if you are going to run the hole in the cap, run without the foam insert. This allows the bladder to collapse and the air to escape out of the cap, letting you run 0 rebound easily.
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Old 10-17-2012, 12:51 PM   #753
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Not what I was looking for.

In the end it seems as if, like with other cars, I have to drill the shock cap (part number 308333) myself.

Any comment on using the shock foam insert? I mean as to using it or not.

What are the preferences as to the use of 3- or 4-hole piston?
4 hole 1.1mm pistons.

Whats the point in using the foam inserts if your trying to get zero rebound and drilling a hole
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Old 10-17-2012, 12:55 PM   #754
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I heard it was on this one;

ROFL.
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Old 10-17-2012, 03:39 PM   #755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Not what I was looking for.

In the end it seems as if, like with other cars, I have to drill the shock cap (part number 308333) myself.

Any comment on using the shock foam insert? I mean as to using it or not.

What are the preferences as to the use of 3- or 4-hole piston?
it is hole in the caps how are in the kit
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Old 10-17-2012, 04:14 PM   #756
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I heard it was on this one;

Probably. I heard it was Somali pirates.
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Old 10-17-2012, 04:16 PM   #757
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Probably the Yokomo guys trying to find parts that don't break when you sneeze on them (otherwise known as Somali Pirates).
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Old 10-17-2012, 04:35 PM   #758
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Is there any other little things people have noticed while building these cars?

I've got my kit on order so once it gets here ill need all the help I can get to build it correctly.
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Old 10-17-2012, 04:59 PM   #759
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Ran mine for the first time tonight. Really impressed, generates more traction and drive out of the corners than the t3, also easier to drive, you don't feel like you have to drive the nuts off it to be fast with it, whereas I always felt the t3 needed to be on the limit to be quick.

Overall, very happy!
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:21 PM   #760
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couple of real quick questions, as I'm looking to get back in the hobby and I'm eyeing the T4 as my possible on-road kit purchase.

a.) What does Rubber-spec mean? I remember when I looked at XRay cars before (T3 '10 and '11) they also made a US version. Does rubber-spec mean that if the car hits a rail (just using this as an example), it doesn't come apart? Forgive me if I seem ignorant, I really am not.

b.) What normally is easiest to break on XRay cars? My wife sees a(n) giant money hole if I go back to racing RC (my other hobby choice is tabletop games) with no end in sight. Can I be prepared ahead of time if something were to break?

c.) Could someone recommend me a radio/ESC and Motor/servo kit to go along with this that wouldn't break $1200?
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:45 PM   #761
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Rubber spec is a chassis designed for rubber tire racing.

In a full year of running the T3 '12, I've only broken one rear upright. That's it.
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Old 10-17-2012, 06:31 PM   #762
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Rubber spec is a chassis designed for rubber tire racing.

In a full year of running the T3 '12, I've only broken one rear upright. That's it.
Interesting to know. I'm kinda rough on stuff, so I'll make sure to get a few parts from the LHS (I have two within a couple hours of me) to tide me over in case I break something.
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Old 10-17-2012, 06:47 PM   #763
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In a full year of running the T3 '12, I've only broken one rear upright. That's it.
+1

One rear upright for the year as well for me .. it didn't really break, but a hard side hit ripped the ballstud from the upright, (with the other hole ocupied by a set screw). I probably could have threaded it back in with a drop of glue, but why bother .. $8 in parts for the year, not bad.

I have lots of spare parts collecting dust.
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Old 10-17-2012, 06:52 PM   #764
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Originally Posted by mikeohara View Post

c.) Could someone recommend me a radio/ESC and Motor/servo kit to go along with this that wouldn't break $1200?
1200. That's fairly easy. I would figure your budget something like this
550 = kit
100 = tyres, body, misc bits
100 = low profile servo. I'd look at the Futaba 9551, about 85 bucks. Or you could go cheaper, such as a spektrum for 60.
100 = motor. Pick a turn and a brand.
150 = ESC. Sort of depends on what class you are going to run. If you're running something like a 17.5 or VTA you could get away with a hobbywing juststock (100 bucks) or whatever. If you're running boost or mod, expect to pay 150 to 200 for a hobbywing v3, lrp, tekin, speed passion, viper.
200 = Transmitter. You could go cheap and buy a futaba/sanwa for 100 to 150, splurge a bit on a mid-high end radio like a futaba 4PL or Sanwa MT4 for 250-300 or go supercheap and get a flysky for <50.
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:29 PM   #765
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Originally Posted by silvalis View Post
1200. That's fairly easy. I would figure your budget something like this
550 = kit
100 = tyres, body, misc bits
100 = low profile servo. I'd look at the Futaba 9551, about 85 bucks. Or you could go cheaper, such as a spektrum for 60.
100 = motor. Pick a turn and a brand.
150 = ESC. Sort of depends on what class you are going to run. If you're running something like a 17.5 or VTA you could get away with a hobbywing juststock (100 bucks) or whatever. If you're running boost or mod, expect to pay 150 to 200 for a hobbywing v3, lrp, tekin, speed passion, viper.
200 = Transmitter. You could go cheap and buy a futaba/sanwa for 100 to 150, splurge a bit on a mid-high end radio like a futaba 4PL or Sanwa MT4 for 250-300 or go supercheap and get a flysky for <50.
Thanks for the help, I'll keep that in mind!
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