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Old 10-17-2012, 02:16 AM   #721
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Originally Posted by bucketboy View Post
Think is because of the torque of the screws on the blocks, put a small spanner over he block to hold it still while you tighten up the screws, might help.

Bb
+1 on the screw torque thing

I solved this issue by first installing the whole suspension assembly with the screws holding the blocks still loose and tightening them in the end.
Works just fine
Regards David
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Old 10-17-2012, 02:32 AM   #722
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Originally Posted by bucketboy View Post
Think is because of the torque of the screws on the blocks, put a small spanner over he block to hold it still while you tighten up the screws, might help.

Bb
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Originally Posted by niemand View Post
+1 on the screw torque thing

I solved this issue by first installing the whole suspension assembly with the screws holding the blocks still loose and tightening them in the end.
Works just fine
Regards David
OK, guys
I will try that later.

Thanks
Skiddins
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Old 10-17-2012, 02:42 AM   #723
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the chassis edge look great. how u do it? just sand with sandpaper? what grit of sandpaper?
Start with 120grit to take the 'sharp' edges off the chassis (I also do the shock towers, just because they look better)
Then smooth it slightly with 600grit.
I then use a Sharpie pen or similar to blacken the edges of the chassis before using the superglue/crazyglue.

I then run a 'bead' of superglue all around the chassis edge, then leave to dry.

Sand with 600 grit

Another couple of coats of superglue (allow to dry inbetween), then depending on how smooth you can use either 600grit to remove any roughness again or straight to 1200-1500grit to smooth it right out.

Superglue never dries completely evenly, hence the sanding
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Old 10-17-2012, 06:53 AM   #724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bucketboy View Post
Think is because of the torque of the screws on the blocks, put a small spanner over he block to hold it still while you tighten up the screws, might help.

Bb
Quote:
Originally Posted by niemand View Post
+1 on the screw torque thing

I solved this issue by first installing the whole suspension assembly with the screws holding the blocks still loose and tightening them in the end.
Works just fine
Regards David
Just did it, worked perfectly

If anyone else is thinking of using a spanner to hold the block in position while screwing it on, you'll need a 5mm
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:30 AM   #725
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R u refering to the screw/nut holding the front of the motor mount ?
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:34 AM   #726
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R u refering to the screw/nut holding the front of the motor mount ?
No, that one is 5.5mm.

Regards David
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:06 AM   #727
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Sorry guys don't get it? Torque of what screws?? If u have a countersunk hole and a flat head scre that is suppose to sit in the countersunk hole and the thread is straight. And to top it off u have a flat surface of the chassis and a flat surface of the pivot block how can it be tweaked slightly??
Surely only a default with the mounting holes of a defect with the screw will allow it not to sit perfectly?
Ok I understand its not a major thing to be concerned with as it straightens easily but I just thought I'd put my 2 pence's worth in.

P.p.s my 2 t4's got delivered today so am so excited but at work now to finish and build!!!!
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:12 AM   #728
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Originally Posted by Jampot View Post
Sorry guys don't get it? Torque of what screws?? If u have a countersunk hole and a flat head scre that is suppose to sit in the countersunk hole and the thread is straight. And to top it off u have a flat surface of the chassis and a flat surface of the pivot block how can it be tweaked slightly??
Surely only a default with the mounting holes of a defect with the screw will allow it not to sit perfectly?
Ok I understand its not a major thing to be concerned with as it straightens easily but I just thought I'd put my 2 pence's worth in.

P.p.s my 2 t4's got delivered today so am so excited but at work now to finish and build!!!!
It is the hole that the nub sets in. It may allow for a very small amount of movement. In the manual it shows how you should put pressure when tighting the screw.
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:18 AM   #729
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Will there be a U.S. Foam version
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:24 AM   #730
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Will there be a U.S. Foam version
I'm sure that would be a big seller.
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:29 AM   #731
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Will there be a U.S. Foam version
They haven't made a foam version of their electric touring car in years, so I would say no.
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:48 AM   #732
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RC America is the exclusive Xray distributor in U.S.?
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:53 AM   #733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jampot View Post
Sorry guys don't get it? Torque of what screws?? If u have a countersunk hole and a flat head scre that is suppose to sit in the countersunk hole and the thread is straight. And to top it off u have a flat surface of the chassis and a flat surface of the pivot block how can it be tweaked slightly??
Surely only a default with the mounting holes of a defect with the screw will allow it not to sit perfectly?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bvoltz View Post
It is the hole that the nub sets in. It may allow for a very small amount of movement. In the manual it shows how you should put pressure when tighting the screw.
It isn't a nub, the new rear split block mounts use two screws.
As you tighten the screw the are applying a torsional force in the clockwise direction, this tries to make the mount rotate slightly, it's also obviously impossible to tighten both screws at the same time.

Once I tried it while using the spanner (or pliers) to hold it at the slight angle while tightening the screws it was very easy and aligned easily.

Skiddins
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Old 10-17-2012, 09:28 AM   #734
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Drove mine for the first yesterday on a tight indoor track. I haven't driven enough to get it dialed, but car was a little loose in the rear. And 350 in the shocks is very soft. My body was scraping in long tight turns.

I'm going to leave the 350 in the shocks for my race on sunday which is on a bigger and more open track which is less grippy. It might work over there. Leaning in the rear shocks 1 holes was a big difference from the stock position. The rear end was a lot calmer.

But the car feels drives better than my 2011 with 2012 chassis and topdeck. I'll let you guys home it handles on my hometrack, where I have driven my T3 last week so I can compare it better to the T3.
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Old 10-17-2012, 09:37 AM   #735
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RC America is the exclusive Xray distributor in U.S.?
Yes.
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