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Old 10-16-2012, 11:05 AM   #706
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Originally Posted by bucknuts View Post
But you could drill new holes in the '12 tower and cut off the excess on the bottom
easier said than done.

If you get them out by >0.1mm then you will automatically be tweaking your car without even knowing it.
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:42 PM   #707
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easier said than done.

If you get them out by >0.1mm then you will automatically be tweaking your car without even knowing it.
It's not something everybody is capable of doing.
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:11 PM   #708
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The T4 looks great! I wish I had enough moolah to buy one.
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:00 PM   #709
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Before and after on the chassis edge glueing (I know one is a shock tower before anyone says anything!)

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Old 10-16-2012, 03:22 PM   #710
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Originally Posted by eds24 View Post
Oh..I'm not anyone special. I just got a little anxious and decided to throw it in my sig when I was changing it. I'm waiting on a pre-order like most everyone else. I only live 15 minutes from 5280 though .... I'm looking forward to racing with you guys once I get my T4 built-up.
Come on down!!!!
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:32 PM   #711
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
It looks kind of sloppy the way the shock holes aren't evenly spaced from the edge.

-Mike
I kinda agree, although this feature may be a consequence of interference analysis. On my T3 the shock tower interferes with the shock cap when using the inner hole, and the non-equidistant hole offsets may have solved this for the T4. ...benefit of the doubt.
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:39 PM   #712
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Let's make this a triple.

It's difficult to tell from the picks, and I did not look at a T4 in person at IIC, but it appears like the outer rear camber link requires a lot of shimming to get the link somewhat flat (or even more shimming to get it to converge with the lower arm). This appears so even with the -2mm lowered inner clamps. I never got the clamps for my '11 and I like to run a lot of camber gain (which is easy to do with the old '11 shock tower). Is running the links angled enough to afford 1-1.5 camber gain possible on the T4 without an excessive stack of shims under the outer end of the camber link?
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:22 PM   #713
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I started building the new T4 kit today and discovered an issue with my chassis. I believe the two holes for the 2-piece alloy rear pivot block mount aren't straight.

If you look closely at the picture, the front of the alloy part sticks out more than the rear, this means that the pivot blocks themselves are slightly too close together which pinches the wishbone so it won't move freely.
The one on the left side in the picture actually angles out slightly to allow for the toe-in.

It actually looks slightly worse in real life. If you look at the line of the carbon weave it stands out more.

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Old 10-16-2012, 05:27 PM   #714
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Originally Posted by samnelso View Post
Let's make this a triple.

It's difficult to tell from the picks, and I did not look at a T4 in person at IIC, but it appears like the outer rear camber link requires a lot of shimming to get the link somewhat flat (or even more shimming to get it to converge with the lower arm). This appears so even with the -2mm lowered inner clamps. I never got the clamps for my '11 and I like to run a lot of camber gain (which is easy to do with the old '11 shock tower). Is running the links angled enough to afford 1-1.5 camber gain possible on the T4 without an excessive stack of shims under the outer end of the camber link?
On my T3'12 I have 1mm shim on the inside (3mm more than the T4) and 4mm on the outside (kit on T4 and T3) and the inside of the link is very slightly higher that the wheel end.

i.e. it's easy to get the links parallel if that's what you require.
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:47 PM   #715
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
On my T3'12 I have 1mm shim on the inside (3mm more than the T4) and 4mm on the outside (kit on T4 and T3) and the inside of the link is very slightly higher that the wheel end.

i.e. it's easy to get the links parallel if that's what you require.
So, if your link is only slightly anti-angled for camber gain, then I think the -3mm available for the T4 compared to your T3 should give me the camber gain I'm looking for. I don't necessarily like the large 4mm shim stack required on the outside, but oh well, that's a personal thing as most would consider my setups wonky anyway.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:02 PM   #716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
I started building the new T4 kit today and discovered an issue with my chassis. I believe the two holes for the 2-piece alloy rear pivot block mount aren't straight.

If you look closely at the picture, the front of the alloy part sticks out more than the rear, this means that the pivot blocks themselves are slightly too close together which pinches the wishbone so it won't move freely.
The one on the left side in the picture actually angles out slightly to allow for the toe-in.

It actually looks slightly worse in real life. If you look at the line of the carbon weave it stands out more.

Taking more measurements, I believe it's the more rearward of the two screw holes mounting it. That hole is too close to the centreline of the chassis
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:42 PM   #717
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I use the KoPropo RSx one10
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I personally like: S9551 Low-Profile see: ....
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Originally Posted by xrayaustin View Post
same for me! but i use the brushless verion its the bls551 low pro
I decided to go with the KoPropo RSx one10. The ratings appear to be faster overall although more expensive. I've been using the Savox 1258TG in my XR3'12 and another in my off-road monster truck, it's been fantastic but it limits the space. I've been so impressed by the 1258TG that I almost ordered a second for my (on pre-order) T4. I looked at the Savox 1251MG but in speed comparisons to the competition it's not as good IMO. I have to say though that Savox has quality products.
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:56 PM   #718
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I decided to go with the KoPropo RSx one10. The ratings appear to be faster overall although more expensive. I've been using the Savox 1258TG in my XR3'12 and another in my off-road monster truck, it's been fantastic but it limits the space. I've been so impressed by the 1258TG that I almost ordered a second for my (on pre-order) T4. I looked at the Savox 1251MG but in speed comparisons to the competition it's not as good IMO. I have to say though that Savox has quality products.
I ran the Savox 1257TG with a KO Rx and Hobbywing V3, and there is plenty of space in the T3'12 for that combo. When looking at left to right balance, my electronics side is light, so I opted for a fast full size servo to add weight rather than a peice of lead.
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:09 PM   #719
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Before and after on the chassis edge glueing (I know one is a shock tower before anyone says anything!)

the chassis edge look great. how u do it? just sand with sandpaper? what grit of sandpaper?
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Old 10-17-2012, 12:10 AM   #720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
I started building the new T4 kit today and discovered an issue with my chassis. I believe the two holes for the 2-piece alloy rear pivot block mount aren't straight.

If you look closely at the picture, the front of the alloy part sticks out more than the rear, this means that the pivot blocks themselves are slightly too close together which pinches the wishbone so it won't move freely.
The one on the left side in the picture actually angles out slightly to allow for the toe-in.

It actually looks slightly worse in real life. If you look at the line of the carbon weave it stands out more.

Think is because of the torque of the screws on the blocks, put a small spanner over he block to hold it still while you tighten up the screws, might help.

Bb
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