2LikesXray T4 '13
10-16-2012, 10:05 AM
#706
Tech Regular
10-16-2012, 12:11 PM
#708
The T4 looks great! I wish I had enough moolah to buy one.
10-16-2012, 02:00 PM
#709
Before and after on the chassis edge glueing (I know one is a shock tower before anyone says anything!)
10-16-2012, 02:22 PM
#710
Oh..I'm not anyone special. I just got a little anxious and decided to throw it in my sig when I was changing it. I'm waiting on a pre-order like most everyone else. I only live 15 minutes from 5280 though .... I'm looking forward to racing with you guys once I get my T4 built-up. 
10-16-2012, 02:32 PM
#711
I kinda agree, although this feature may be a consequence of interference analysis. On my T3 the shock tower interferes with the shock cap when using the inner hole, and the non-equidistant hole offsets may have solved this for the T4. ...benefit of the doubt.
10-16-2012, 02:39 PM
#712
Let's make this a triple.
It's difficult to tell from the picks, and I did not look at a T4 in person at IIC, but it appears like the outer rear camber link requires a lot of shimming to get the link somewhat flat (or even more shimming to get it to converge with the lower arm). This appears so even with the -2mm lowered inner clamps. I never got the clamps for my '11 and I like to run a lot of camber gain (which is easy to do with the old '11 shock tower). Is running the links angled enough to afford 1-1.5° camber gain possible on the T4 without an excessive stack of shims under the outer end of the camber link?
It's difficult to tell from the picks, and I did not look at a T4 in person at IIC, but it appears like the outer rear camber link requires a lot of shimming to get the link somewhat flat (or even more shimming to get it to converge with the lower arm). This appears so even with the -2mm lowered inner clamps. I never got the clamps for my '11 and I like to run a lot of camber gain (which is easy to do with the old '11 shock tower). Is running the links angled enough to afford 1-1.5° camber gain possible on the T4 without an excessive stack of shims under the outer end of the camber link?
10-16-2012, 04:22 PM
#713
I started building the new T4 kit today and discovered an issue with my chassis. I believe the two holes for the 2-piece alloy rear pivot block mount aren't straight.
If you look closely at the picture, the front of the alloy part sticks out more than the rear, this means that the pivot blocks themselves are slightly too close together which pinches the wishbone so it won't move freely.
The one on the left side in the picture actually angles out slightly to allow for the toe-in.
It actually looks slightly worse in real life. If you look at the line of the carbon weave it stands out more.
If you look closely at the picture, the front of the alloy part sticks out more than the rear, this means that the pivot blocks themselves are slightly too close together which pinches the wishbone so it won't move freely.
The one on the left side in the picture actually angles out slightly to allow for the toe-in.
It actually looks slightly worse in real life. If you look at the line of the carbon weave it stands out more.
10-16-2012, 04:27 PM
#714
Let's make this a triple.
It's difficult to tell from the picks, and I did not look at a T4 in person at IIC, but it appears like the outer rear camber link requires a lot of shimming to get the link somewhat flat (or even more shimming to get it to converge with the lower arm). This appears so even with the -2mm lowered inner clamps. I never got the clamps for my '11 and I like to run a lot of camber gain (which is easy to do with the old '11 shock tower). Is running the links angled enough to afford 1-1.5° camber gain possible on the T4 without an excessive stack of shims under the outer end of the camber link?
It's difficult to tell from the picks, and I did not look at a T4 in person at IIC, but it appears like the outer rear camber link requires a lot of shimming to get the link somewhat flat (or even more shimming to get it to converge with the lower arm). This appears so even with the -2mm lowered inner clamps. I never got the clamps for my '11 and I like to run a lot of camber gain (which is easy to do with the old '11 shock tower). Is running the links angled enough to afford 1-1.5° camber gain possible on the T4 without an excessive stack of shims under the outer end of the camber link?
i.e. it's easy to get the links parallel if that's what you require.
10-16-2012, 04:47 PM
#715
So, if your link is only slightly anti-angled for camber gain, then I think the -3mm available for the T4 compared to your T3 should give me the camber gain I'm looking for. I don't necessarily like the large 4mm shim stack required on the outside, but oh well, that's a personal thing as most would consider my setups wonky anyway.
10-16-2012, 05:02 PM
#716
I started building the new T4 kit today and discovered an issue with my chassis. I believe the two holes for the 2-piece alloy rear pivot block mount aren't straight.
If you look closely at the picture, the front of the alloy part sticks out more than the rear, this means that the pivot blocks themselves are slightly too close together which pinches the wishbone so it won't move freely.
The one on the left side in the picture actually angles out slightly to allow for the toe-in.
It actually looks slightly worse in real life. If you look at the line of the carbon weave it stands out more.
If you look closely at the picture, the front of the alloy part sticks out more than the rear, this means that the pivot blocks themselves are slightly too close together which pinches the wishbone so it won't move freely.
The one on the left side in the picture actually angles out slightly to allow for the toe-in.
It actually looks slightly worse in real life. If you look at the line of the carbon weave it stands out more.
10-16-2012, 07:42 PM
#717
Tech Apprentice
I decided to go with the KoPropo RSx one10. The ratings appear to be faster overall although more expensive. I've been using the Savox 1258TG in my XR3'12 and another in my off-road monster truck, it's been fantastic but it limits the space. I've been so impressed by the 1258TG that I almost ordered a second for my (on pre-order) T4. I looked at the Savox 1251MG but in speed comparisons to the competition it's not as good IMO. I have to say though that Savox has quality products.
10-16-2012, 07:56 PM
#718
I decided to go with the KoPropo RSx one10. The ratings appear to be faster overall although more expensive. I've been using the Savox 1258TG in my XR3'12 and another in my off-road monster truck, it's been fantastic but it limits the space. I've been so impressed by the 1258TG that I almost ordered a second for my (on pre-order) T4. I looked at the Savox 1251MG but in speed comparisons to the competition it's not as good IMO. I have to say though that Savox has quality products.
10-16-2012, 08:09 PM
#719
10-16-2012, 11:10 PM
#720
Tech Regular
I started building the new T4 kit today and discovered an issue with my chassis. I believe the two holes for the 2-piece alloy rear pivot block mount aren't straight.
If you look closely at the picture, the front of the alloy part sticks out more than the rear, this means that the pivot blocks themselves are slightly too close together which pinches the wishbone so it won't move freely.
The one on the left side in the picture actually angles out slightly to allow for the toe-in.
It actually looks slightly worse in real life. If you look at the line of the carbon weave it stands out more.
If you look closely at the picture, the front of the alloy part sticks out more than the rear, this means that the pivot blocks themselves are slightly too close together which pinches the wishbone so it won't move freely.
The one on the left side in the picture actually angles out slightly to allow for the toe-in.
It actually looks slightly worse in real life. If you look at the line of the carbon weave it stands out more.
Bb