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Old 06-02-2014, 04:07 AM   #5551
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Lightbulb xray rear belt

hi fly n fish , i may be able to help you here, i run a 4.5t mod motor in my t4, i dont run in mod class because i run it in a class we have at our local club called 235mm outlaw 1/10, effectively mod cars with no body or tyre limit meaning wide foams and lola bodies, The cars are under high stress due to excess traction and an ability to mash the throttle nearly everywhere
Now mod cars will chew the belt faster then then stock classes but you should still get 25 plus battery packs per belt if all other factors are correct, trust me i have been in your situation snapping belts every 2 to 5 batteries but the good news is there are ways to make it last.
Firstly pulleys and gear diff teeth are critical, worn teeth give you no chance a pulley doesnt need to look chewed out, if the teeth are smoothed out at all they will contribute to poor belt life, pulleys should be changed in a mod car every 10 to 15 packs, a tip here to maximise cost saving is when replacing this pulley put it on the front belt pulley as this pulley is not as critical , this way you get 20 to 30 packs per pulley, now i see you have the aluminium pulleys and while i have no experience with them so i cant be sure, it must be harder on the belt then plastic but in saying this it is still better then a worn plastic pulley so experimentation is the way to go here, also the gear diff teeth that are worn or damaged will also wreck a belt quickly, luckily these last far longer then a pulley maybe up to 100 or more packs but worth being aware of.
belts that get chewed out are generally to tight and belts that snap are generally to loose , i was given some good advice on this and was told to have approx 3 mm flex in the belt when pushing down in the middle of it, this has proven to be very good advice for me and my belts last longer because of it, check your belt tension regularly as well as the belt will stretch.
lastly belt choice. unfortunately Xray belts are a rip off, sorry guys for being so forthright or offending anyone but the cheapest i have ever found one in a hobby shop is $ 18 while the highest was $36! , this is no good but once again there are solutions, number 1 is don't use rubber belts make sure they are kevlar, i have used the TOUGH racing belts from korea for a third of the price delivered as long as you order a few and they are pretty much as good as genuine, another belt i have tried is a 5mm 189mm team magic nitro belt which i carefully cut in half too create 2 x 2.5mm belts , i snapped one within ten packs but the second one has about 15 packs old and still good, not bad for $ 14, also i have heard that the yokomo belts are better then xrays belt but i cant confirm this as i have never tried.
check all these things out and i am confident your belt problems will cease to be solved
cheers
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Old 06-02-2014, 06:08 AM   #5552
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Hi guys, I am having belt snap issues on my t4 in modified. the rear belt is really getting chewed out, id say I have done twenty packs and three belts in the car, two xray and one crappy cso that lost its teeth and burnt the crap out of my layshft pulleys. The first belt was snapped because it was too tight, now I dont know what? I got an aluminum layshaft pulley set, maybe it is damaging the belt??? help!
Make sure your rear diff cases are in good shape. If the teeth on the diff where the belt lays are rounded off, it will cause the belt to slip, increasing wear.

Also, be sure the belt isn't too tight, one click tighter from center on the eccentric holder should be plenty of tension, especially with a new belt.
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:02 AM   #5553
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For some reason, my screw that attaches the servo saver to the servo keeps undoing itself, has anyone else experienced this?

My end points are set correctly.

I don't fancy using thread lock in case I need to change servo, but I suspect it's my only choice

I race with foams, so the grip levels are pulling the car about quite a bit, I suspect that's not helping
Blue Loctite and forget it. It won't allow it to come loose on its own, but will come out easily with tools.
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:21 AM   #5554
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Hi guys, I am having belt snap issues on my t4 in modified. the rear belt is really getting chewed out, id say I have done twenty packs and three belts in the car, two xray and one crappy cso that lost its teeth and burnt the crap out of my layshft pulleys. The first belt was snapped because it was too tight, now I dont know what? I got an aluminum layshaft pulley set, maybe it is damaging the belt??? help!
Use a Yokomo BD rear belt, its the same size and loads stronger.

Also get rid of the alloy pulleys, plastic are much kinder to the belt, are lighter and less prone to wear/damage.
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Old 06-02-2014, 11:47 AM   #5555
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Thanks for the input. As I said, it is a stock setup from the Xray rubber tire setup running on carpet that had Med/med high bite. The only difference is the front diff with 500K fluid and 2mm ackerman shims. Also, I am running no shims in the rear which gives the rear about 2 degree rear toe in.

All screws are in my stock top plate.
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Old 06-03-2014, 01:59 AM   #5556
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Blue Loctite and forget it. It won't allow it to come loose on its own, but will come out easily with tools.
Thank you for the reply

I've got some blue Tamiya thread lock kicking around in the pit box, I will try that first.

I think the hex on the screw is a little worn so I might replace that at the same time.

Can anyone tell me what thread size the screw is on a Futaba s9550 please?

I am guessing m4?????
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Old 06-03-2014, 02:35 AM   #5557
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Old 06-03-2014, 08:32 AM   #5558
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Wow I can't believe some of y'all are snapping belts that quickly. My belts in stock have only snapped once in about 7-8 months and they're still in great shape.

My mod belts last a whole lot longer than 20 packs. Sure, the belts wear a lot quicker in mod, but 20 packs?
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Old 06-03-2014, 08:46 AM   #5559
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Wow I can't believe some of y'all are snapping belts that quickly. My belts in stock have only snapped once in about 7-8 months and they're still in great shape.

My mod belts last a whole lot longer than 20 packs. Sure, the belts wear a lot quicker in mod, but 20 packs?
Running outdoor maybe? I run indoor and have never broken a belt and can only remember it happening to other people a couple of times. Granted we run stock 17.5 at my local track.
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Old 06-04-2014, 03:04 AM   #5560
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Old 06-04-2014, 03:20 AM   #5561
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Default mod rear belt

hi guys, where we race outdoors can be dusty but we do clean the track before use but still probably not as clean as indoor, but i reckon the determining factor is the extra power, when i ran a 13.5t i never snapped a belt in 40 to 50 odd runs 4.5t is a different story, there is a lot more stress 3 to 4 times the amount, you only have to compare current ratings to see the power difference, we also have a 21,5 turn tc class operate at our club and belt wear is also low, but you accept more power will wear things faster and try to keep pulleys fresh to maximise belt life, if i get 30 packs per belt i am happy anything less then 20 i am not.
i am not sure about other peoples wear rates but i bet all things being equal stock class belts will last longer then mod class belts
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Old 06-04-2014, 04:06 AM   #5562
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hi guys, where we race outdoors can be dusty but we do clean the track before use but still probably not as clean as indoor, but i reckon the determining factor is the extra power, when i ran a 13.5t i never snapped a belt in 40 to 50 odd runs 4.5t is a different story, there is a lot more stress 3 to 4 times the amount, you only have to compare current ratings to see the power difference, we also have a 21,5 turn tc class operate at our club and belt wear is also low, but you accept more power will wear things faster and try to keep pulleys fresh to maximise belt life, if i get 30 packs per belt i am happy anything less then 20 i am not.
i am not sure about other peoples wear rates but i bet all things being equal stock class belts will last longer then mod class belts
cheers
oldenuff
Sounds like the belt is too tight. I run exclusively outdoors and usually a 4,5 or 5.5, and can usually run a whole season on one set of belts. I always have to run at least 2-3 notches looser from the stock eccentrics position in the rear.

Remember, front belt should always be tighter than the rear.

Ethan
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Old 06-04-2014, 04:32 AM   #5563
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hi guys, erchn that is the first time i have been told to keep the front belt tighter then the rear by anybody ,... but when i think about it ,it makes sense, thanks for the advice i'll take it into account when i tension my belts
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Old 06-04-2014, 04:57 AM   #5564
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hi guys, erchn that is the first time i have been told to keep the front belt tighter then the rear by anybody ,... but when i think about it ,it makes sense, thanks for the advice i'll take it into account when i tension my belts
cheers
oldenuff
Heard that from Craig McPhee from SMA also, so it must be right...
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Old 06-04-2014, 02:19 PM   #5565
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Heard that from Craig McPhee from SMA also, so it must be right...
Well, if McPhee says it, then it must be true. lol
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