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Old 01-08-2014, 04:12 AM   #5341
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Thank you. Leave camber? I'll try these changes today.
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Old 01-08-2014, 06:25 AM   #5342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcguyfpr View Post
I need help to setup a T4 for VTA.

I ran a T2, T3, VBC D05 in VTA, and got them to dial without issue. I recently switch to T4, and I have a hard time to make it work for VTA.

Track: Norcal Asphalt
Springs: RSD silver F/R. Also tried 2.9/2.7 or 2.9/2.5
Shock oil: 350/350. Also tried 45/45
Toe: F toe out 1. Rear toe in 3
Camber: F -2, R -1.5. also tried R -2
Gear diff: 1k front spool
Roll center: F mid hole 1mm shim. R outside hole no shim.

No matter what I do, the car just super loose in the rear. I have to drive it really carefully or else it just spin out.

This same car works great in 17.5 with RSD silver springs and 350 oil.

Any suggestion?
It's the shims on the bulkheads that do a lot. In mod I usually ran 2mm on the inner rear bulkheads to make the car stable on corner entry. In stock I went down to 1.5mm to get a more aggressive feeling.

I would try this on your car:
2mm on the front C hub and 2mm on the front blukheads.
4mm on the rear hub and 2mm on the rear bulkheads.
1.5 front camber and 2 rear camber

This should tame the car down a lot. If you need the car to be more aggressive, go down on the bulkheads in 0.5mm increasements
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Old 01-08-2014, 09:01 AM   #5343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morgoth View Post
It's the shims on the bulkheads that do a lot. In mod I usually ran 2mm on the inner rear bulkheads to make the car stable on corner entry. In stock I went down to 1.5mm to get a more aggressive feeling.

I would try this on your car:
2mm on the front C hub and 2mm on the front blukheads.
4mm on the rear hub and 2mm on the rear bulkheads.
1.5 front camber and 2 rear camber

This should tame the car down a lot. If you need the car to be more aggressive, go down on the bulkheads in 0.5mm increasements
Yup, that's what I was thinking, too. His setup had a bunch of shims on the inner bulkheads. I run my T4 without any shims on the front, and usually only adjust the rear bulkhead shims if the car is feeling a little bit tight/loose.
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Old 01-08-2014, 01:45 PM   #5344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcguyfpr View Post
I need help to setup a T4 for VTA.

I ran a T2, T3, VBC D05 in VTA, and got them to dial without issue. I recently switch to T4, and I have a hard time to make it work for VTA.

Track: Norcal Asphalt
Springs: RSD silver F/R. Also tried 2.9/2.7 or 2.9/2.5
Shock oil: 350/350. Also tried 45/45
Toe: F toe out 1. Rear toe in 3
Camber: F -2, R -1.5. also tried R -2
Gear diff: 1k front spool
Roll center: F mid hole 1mm shim. R outside hole no shim.

No matter what I do, the car just super loose in the rear. I have to drive it really carefully or else it just spin out.

This same car works great in 17.5 with RSD silver springs and 350 oil.

Any suggestion?
One other item I thought of that could be related to your rear traction issues - are you using the solid rear roll center mount (PN 302050), or split rear mounts (PN 302049)? If you're struggling for traction in the rear (especially mid-corner), I strongly recommend using the split rear mounts, as the solid mount tends to take away a LOT of rear grip.
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Old 01-08-2014, 02:11 PM   #5345
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If he's using the RSD upgrade, it should have suspension blocks like the T4'14.
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Old 01-08-2014, 02:17 PM   #5346
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Originally Posted by hyujmn View Post
If he's using the RSD upgrade, it should have suspension blocks like the T4'14.
Very true - but the OP never specified which chassis he's using... If he's using the RSD chassis then you could disregard the comments concerning the lower arm mounts.
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Old 01-08-2014, 06:04 PM   #5347
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Not sure what to do. Even though I glue the chassis, the rear split and tweaked. Chassis plate is f-ed. I need a new one from rsd.
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Old 01-08-2014, 08:53 PM   #5348
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A bit more info on the setup and what happened tonight:

Track was kept the same from sunday. A little slower, but not much. I made the above mentioned changes. Black RSD springs rear, Blues up front. I couldn't swap in my multi diff or the spool with metal cups necause the axles would bind, so I kept in the gear diff with 2.5mil cst. Removed all upper bulkhead shims, center length links front and rear. 1mm shims on all lower hinge pin blocks, fronts I flipped the blocks so they looked like ( .)(. ). Rears I left the fronts as ( ..)(.. ), and rears ended up with ( ...)(... ). Gave me right around 3.5 deg. rear toe. Front I kept 1 deg. toe out, 1 deg. camber, rear 1.5. Shock positions left alone-rear one hole up from laid down, fronts 1 hole down from stood up. ride height 5mm all around, 1mm droop front, 2mm rear. Standard hexes all around. rear diff was left at 1k cst.

Car felt good. Well planted, predicable. A bit pushy. but, pretty good. Ended up running a laptime .2 faster then what I did on sunday. Had a good string of laps .1 faster, and the car felt much more consistant. I even experimented with an old trinity tire warmer (friend gave me one to try) since I had never used one before.

Issues. Rear of the chassis, where the back bulkhead attaches to the chassis, it's split and warped. I drove the car and the difference was negligible, but since I am a perfectionist, it bothers me to no end, and I cannot remove one of the screws since it is now embedded in to the chassis. I need a new RSD chassis. Also bent a pin (lap traffic shot out into me), luckily, I had ordered the 42 and 45mm yokomo pins. I think I will order more. The hit also took out those plastic inserts, so I need some more of those, as well as tuning. Then, steering. Glitching. Found out I have a bad plot on my KO Propo EX Kiy drop down wheel, that screwed up when steering. That will need to be addressed.

Overall, expensive night, but a good one, despite breaking things. Any suggestions on how to get a bit more steering? Suggestions on how to better protect the chassis? I am not saying it was RSD's fault, but I can't recall a hit that was hard enough to cause that damage. I am not a perfect driver, but I also am not slow or horrible, and usually have pretty good awareness to turn out of a wall on entry, or to brake so I avoid breaking. Not sure what my next steps will be.
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Old 01-08-2014, 09:12 PM   #5349
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Glad to hear the car was getting better! Standing the shocks up one hole all around should help gain a bit of steering.

Front spool will help with the pushiness in the mid corner/exit. 2k in the rear diff will also help to gain some steering. Sounds like your setup is almost there! Squeezing that last .1 out is always the hardest part =]
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Old 01-08-2014, 09:26 PM   #5350
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Thanks a ton again for the help! I am trying to find those plastic inserts but I guess RSD is out of them-anyone know when they will be back in stock? I have a list of parts I wanted to order from them no later then tomorrow, including a new chassis. I have one week to get this car back for the next race! I also wanted to try the 2 dot inserts up front like you mentioned. I'll try grabbing some other oils for the diff and see what that happens.

I feel at times standing the shocks up on the front all the way could contribute to the car feeling a little lazy. What toe out do you run? I could try adding a little more camber, but I guess we will see.
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Old 01-08-2014, 09:29 PM   #5351
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They are the same as Spec R and can be found at their website.
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Old 01-08-2014, 09:33 PM   #5352
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really? Link? I am only finding the full spec r touring car kit..
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Old 01-08-2014, 09:38 PM   #5353
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http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....roducts_id=376
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Old 01-08-2014, 09:46 PM   #5354
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Yea, the actual suspension mounts are the same as the Spec-R ones, just anodized black instead of red like the Spec-R. Just don't use the suspension pins from the kit and just cut down the Xray ones (or get the Yok ones like you did).

Also, up front I'm running 2 dot inserts like this...

(.. ) ( ..)

Im running 1degree toe out up front, 3.5 on the rear. 1.5mm camber all around.

I have my shock mounts at the same position as you, too. Try standing just the rears up one hole then. It'll make the car turn in tighter. Also I'm running only the front two and the rear two upper deck screws. I've got no screws in the actual layshaft, but I'm not using any captured layshafts or anything. Just no screws coming down on it.
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Old 01-08-2014, 10:46 PM   #5355
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Cut your top deck in the front to that hole or no? I don't want a whole ton of flex with the car. I feel like at times it makes it feel lazy, other times traction roll.

Spec r plastic inserts with the dots are red? Ish! Not on a orange and black car! Lol
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