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Old 12-19-2013, 06:05 PM   #5281
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I'm definitely replacing the servo saver. Just wondering what to do about the servo, or what else it could possibly be. Try a brand new savox 1251?
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:18 PM   #5282
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I'm definitely replacing the servo saver. Just wondering what to do about the servo, or what else it could possibly be. Try a brand new savox 1251?
The Savox 1251 is ALL metal gears, and on the brittle side at that. There's no plastic gear like in the Futaba. So even with a saver, if you had a big hit, you could pop a gear tooth. If you did, then it might behave intermittently as the geartrain slipped or got jammed on a piece of debris. I'd definitely at least pull it apart and closely inspect the gears. Maybe clean off the electronics with some motor spray. That doesn't cost any money.

If it is a broken gear, then this and done: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Set-w-Bearing
(wow, the price went up on that. Used to be $11)

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Old 12-19-2013, 09:04 PM   #5283
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Well, I do know the servo sounds glitchy at times, and when on a setup station it wouldn't return to center. I did pull it apart though and gears seem to be fine. I just wonder if the motor is going bad on it?
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Old 12-20-2013, 07:38 AM   #5284
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I am installing the new RSDv2 chassis on my '13. Can someone tell me the proper tightening order for the lay shaft/motor mount? I know there is a certain order to go by, but I don't have any paperwork.
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Old 12-20-2013, 07:48 AM   #5285
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I am installing the new RSDv2 chassis on my '13. Can someone tell me the proper tightening order for the lay shaft/motor mount? I know there is a certain order to go by, but I don't have any paperwork.
Download the pdf manual from the Xray website.
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Old 12-20-2013, 12:43 PM   #5286
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Originally Posted by alloyslash View Post
I am installing the new RSDv2 chassis on my '13. Can someone tell me the proper tightening order for the lay shaft/motor mount? I know there is a certain order to go by, but I don't have any paperwork.
Put the screw with the nut first, snug don't tighten all the way yet. Put the other screws and tighten all the way, then tight the one with the nut all the way
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Old 12-20-2013, 01:21 PM   #5287
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page 10 of manual:
1. screws to attach bearing holder to motor mount (not tight)
2. nut on screw (not tight)
3. tighten chassis screws
4. tighten motor mount nut
5. tighten forward bearing mount screw to motor mount
6. tighten rear bearing mount screw to motor mount
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Old 12-20-2013, 02:16 PM   #5288
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Originally Posted by porsche928gs View Post
Put the screw with the nut first, snug don't tighten all the way yet. Put the other screws and tighten all the way, then tight the one with the nut all the way
Quote:
Originally Posted by vabroom View Post
page 10 of manual:
1. screws to attach bearing holder to motor mount (not tight)
2. nut on screw (not tight)
3. tighten chassis screws
4. tighten motor mount nut
5. tighten forward bearing mount screw to motor mount
6. tighten rear bearing mount screw to motor mount
Thanks. I'm at work, trying to finish it up in my spare time in an attempt to make a race tomorrow.
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Old 12-21-2013, 01:16 AM   #5289
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for a bit more flex you can leave the nyloc nut loose,tighten it all the way then with the 2mm allen driver undo it until the nut spins,then leave it there,most of the team drivers do this
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Old 12-21-2013, 05:27 AM   #5290
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for a bit more flex you can leave the nyloc nut loose,tighten it all the way then with the 2mm allen driver undo it until the nut spins,then leave it there,most of the team drivers do this
Interesting! Thanks for the tip. For now I think I will tighten everything up and see how it drives with this RSDv2 chassis/top plate. I believe my next mod will be the closed lowered lay shaft holders from RSD.
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Old 12-21-2013, 10:38 AM   #5291
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Had an awesome drive with the RSD v1 on Thursday night. I hadn't raced or practiced for probably 3-4 months before Thursday, so I was incredibly rusty. The car during practice was really loose. I was traction rolling or sliding out at every corner. It was incredibly frustrating. I couldn't hold a corner with speed to save my life.

I made 3 small setup changes right before the first qualifier. Laid the rear shocks down 1 notch, took some droop out of the front and the rear, and added a 1mm shim underneath the inner upper bulkhead. OMG what a difference the car made. I quickly jumped out to a lead and was over 6 secs ahead of 2nd place and extending my lead when I decided to just go ahead and choke and jump a dot over half the track! Landed on my back and ended up 4 secs back of 1st place. I still closed down on him, and finished 1sec behind him.

It was amazing how responsive the car was to setup changes. It went from meh to absolutely dialed with some simple changes. Before I got this chassis, I was always a middle of the pack guy, even when I was driving a lot more. Now, after not even driving for MONTHS, I came back and almost won. I'd consider that a success!
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Old 12-24-2013, 08:40 PM   #5292
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Just wondering what others are using for spurs other then Xray.
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Old 12-25-2013, 02:51 AM   #5293
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Just wondering what others are using for spurs other then Xray.
I had used zeppin and xenon before!
Kawada and Serpent possibly work but i never tried before, can't guarantee nothing
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Old 12-25-2013, 04:18 PM   #5294
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does anyone know if the Xray t4 graphite battery strap for lipo will fit the T3 2011 aswell?
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Old 12-25-2013, 05:32 PM   #5295
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does anyone know if the Xray t4 graphite battery strap for lipo will fit the T3 2011 aswell?
i cant see why not, they use the same battery holders
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