Xray T4 '13
#5116
Tech Addict
iTrader: (21)
Any thoughts on the aluminum steering arms? I've got some (came with the car when I bought it), but I figured they would just add unsprung weight (bad) and force other parts to break upon impact (also bad). Are there good qualities to the aluminum arms that I'm not seeing?
#5117
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
Thanks, Chris!
Any thoughts on the aluminum steering arms? I've got some (came with the car when I bought it), but I figured they would just add unsprung weight (bad) and force other parts to break upon impact (also bad). Are there good qualities to the aluminum arms that I'm not seeing?
Any thoughts on the aluminum steering arms? I've got some (came with the car when I bought it), but I figured they would just add unsprung weight (bad) and force other parts to break upon impact (also bad). Are there good qualities to the aluminum arms that I'm not seeing?
#5118
Thanks, Chris!
Any thoughts on the aluminum steering arms? I've got some (came with the car when I bought it), but I figured they would just add unsprung weight (bad) and force other parts to break upon impact (also bad). Are there good qualities to the aluminum arms that I'm not seeing?
Any thoughts on the aluminum steering arms? I've got some (came with the car when I bought it), but I figured they would just add unsprung weight (bad) and force other parts to break upon impact (also bad). Are there good qualities to the aluminum arms that I'm not seeing?
Have to confess, you tend to see them on cars being run by young kids where the parents are fed up with replacing C-Hubs etc in the slower classes.
Skiddins
#5119
I actually asked Lemieux this last weekend about those and he said the difference was negligible. Not really a benefit at all.
#5120
I would think this is the case too, since you're probably more likely to "tweak" a servo saver then you are the steering arm, unless you have a super strong ass servo and you ca glued the saver or don't run one.
#5121
So I am looking for a little tuning advice. I am running a t4'13 in VTA class and am losing ground in the two 180 degree sections. Take a look at this video and you can see what I am talking about. My car is the white one with the stripes. I started in 2nd position.
For a setup everything is stock rubber tire setup with the exception of...
Front diff with 500,000cst
3mm droop over ride height F/R
2000cst in the rear diff
1.5 negative camber on all four corners
2 degree rear toe
I am looking to get through the 180s a little faster.
For a setup everything is stock rubber tire setup with the exception of...
Front diff with 500,000cst
3mm droop over ride height F/R
2000cst in the rear diff
1.5 negative camber on all four corners
2 degree rear toe
I am looking to get through the 180s a little faster.
+ YouTube Video | |
#5122
Tech Elite
iTrader: (93)
So I am looking for a little tuning advice. I am running a t4'13 in VTA class and am losing ground in the two 180 degree sections. Take a look at this video and you can see what I am talking about. My car is the white one with the stripes. I started in 2nd position.
For a setup everything is stock rubber tire setup with the exception of...
Front diff with 500,000cst
3mm droop over ride height F/R
2000cst in the rear diff
1.5 negative camber on all four corners
2 degree rear toe
I am looking to get through the 180s a little faster.
For a setup everything is stock rubber tire setup with the exception of...
Front diff with 500,000cst
3mm droop over ride height F/R
2000cst in the rear diff
1.5 negative camber on all four corners
2 degree rear toe
I am looking to get through the 180s a little faster.
+ YouTube Video | |
#5123
Not sure if it is sliding or it is me hitting the brakes hard into the first 180 right after the timing gate.
To answer your question, no, I put 2k in when i built the car and haven't tried anything else.
To answer your question, no, I put 2k in when i built the car and haven't tried anything else.
#5126
Tech Champion
iTrader: (42)
So I am looking for a little tuning advice. I am running a t4'13 in VTA class and am losing ground in the two 180 degree sections. Take a look at this video and you can see what I am talking about. My car is the white one with the stripes. I started in 2nd position.
For a setup everything is stock rubber tire setup with the exception of...
Front diff with 500,000cst
3mm droop over ride height F/R
2000cst in the rear diff
1.5 negative camber on all four corners
2 degree rear toe
I am looking to get through the 180s a little faster.
For a setup everything is stock rubber tire setup with the exception of...
Front diff with 500,000cst
3mm droop over ride height F/R
2000cst in the rear diff
1.5 negative camber on all four corners
2 degree rear toe
I am looking to get through the 180s a little faster.
+ YouTube Video | |
#5127
A thinner rear swaybar gives more off power steering. On low grip surfaces or when I need more rear stability entering a turn, I run a ticker swaybar in the rear.
A soft rear swaybar gives more aggressive turn in.
A soft rear swaybar gives more aggressive turn in.
#5128
[QUOTE=Meradin;12719777]So I am looking for a little tuning advice. I am running a t4'13 in VTA class and am losing ground in the two 180 degree sections. Take a look at this video and you can see what I am talking about. My car is the white one with the stripes. I started in 2nd position.
For a setup everything is stock rubber tire setup with the exception of...
Front diff with 500,000cst
3mm droop over ride height F/R
2000cst in the rear diff
1.5 negative camber on all four corners
2 degree rear toe
I am looking to get through the 180s a little faster.
Sorry but I don't think is really a problem so much with your setup as it it is with your consistency of driving the line. Remember when you get outside of the racing line your tires may get dirty and It will take a few corners to clean up. I agree with John, if you want to go faster around the 180s use thinner rear diff oil. If you want to hug the corner closer without braking that hard (Initial turn-in) reduce your oil thickness on front diff as well or use a ball diff for faster adjustments.
For a setup everything is stock rubber tire setup with the exception of...
Front diff with 500,000cst
3mm droop over ride height F/R
2000cst in the rear diff
1.5 negative camber on all four corners
2 degree rear toe
I am looking to get through the 180s a little faster.
Sorry but I don't think is really a problem so much with your setup as it it is with your consistency of driving the line. Remember when you get outside of the racing line your tires may get dirty and It will take a few corners to clean up. I agree with John, if you want to go faster around the 180s use thinner rear diff oil. If you want to hug the corner closer without braking that hard (Initial turn-in) reduce your oil thickness on front diff as well or use a ball diff for faster adjustments.
#5129
I am not sure about the traction comments. Now, I have very limited experience in this. The local rc club used the Ozite stuff and it was like ice compared to this carpet. I can honestly say that this isn't a low traction carpet. Many times I have been able to run dry tires, no sauce needed.
I will give the suggestions a shot though. As I said, I have limited experience in judging traction levels.
I may first try putting 1k in the diff.
I will give the suggestions a shot though. As I said, I have limited experience in judging traction levels.
I may first try putting 1k in the diff.
#5130
I am not sure about the traction comments. Now, I have very limited experience in this. The local rc club used the Ozite stuff and it was like ice compared to this carpet. I can honestly say that this isn't a low traction carpet. Many times I have been able to run dry tires, no sauce needed.
I will give the suggestions a shot though. As I said, I have limited experience in judging traction levels.
I may first try putting 1k in the diff.
I will give the suggestions a shot though. As I said, I have limited experience in judging traction levels.
I may first try putting 1k in the diff.