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Old 11-05-2013, 04:38 PM   #5116
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I haven't noticed a real perfomance difference, but I do know thet hards holds up better during an impact. I would stock op on arms, c-hubs and bushings. Thats all I usually break.
Thanks, Chris!

Any thoughts on the aluminum steering arms? I've got some (came with the car when I bought it), but I figured they would just add unsprung weight (bad) and force other parts to break upon impact (also bad). Are there good qualities to the aluminum arms that I'm not seeing?
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:16 PM   #5117
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Thanks, Chris!

Any thoughts on the aluminum steering arms? I've got some (came with the car when I bought it), but I figured they would just add unsprung weight (bad) and force other parts to break upon impact (also bad). Are there good qualities to the aluminum arms that I'm not seeing?
Yes, no slop, the plastics will wear out over time, the aluminum will not. I recommend them...
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Old 11-06-2013, 02:30 AM   #5118
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Thanks, Chris!

Any thoughts on the aluminum steering arms? I've got some (came with the car when I bought it), but I figured they would just add unsprung weight (bad) and force other parts to break upon impact (also bad). Are there good qualities to the aluminum arms that I'm not seeing?
They also run the risk of bending in a big impact, the plastics are a bit more resilient in impacts. You are also adding unsprung weight as you say.
Have to confess, you tend to see them on cars being run by young kids where the parents are fed up with replacing C-Hubs etc in the slower classes.

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Old 11-06-2013, 05:04 AM   #5119
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I actually asked Lemieux this last weekend about those and he said the difference was negligible. Not really a benefit at all.
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:05 AM   #5120
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I would think this is the case too, since you're probably more likely to "tweak" a servo saver then you are the steering arm, unless you have a super strong ass servo and you ca glued the saver or don't run one.
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:42 PM   #5121
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So I am looking for a little tuning advice. I am running a t4'13 in VTA class and am losing ground in the two 180 degree sections. Take a look at this video and you can see what I am talking about. My car is the white one with the stripes. I started in 2nd position.

For a setup everything is stock rubber tire setup with the exception of...
Front diff with 500,000cst
3mm droop over ride height F/R
2000cst in the rear diff
1.5 negative camber on all four corners
2 degree rear toe

I am looking to get through the 180s a little faster.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 11-12-2013, 07:09 PM   #5122
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Originally Posted by Meradin View Post
So I am looking for a little tuning advice. I am running a t4'13 in VTA class and am losing ground in the two 180 degree sections. Take a look at this video and you can see what I am talking about. My car is the white one with the stripes. I started in 2nd position.

For a setup everything is stock rubber tire setup with the exception of...
Front diff with 500,000cst
3mm droop over ride height F/R
2000cst in the rear diff
1.5 negative camber on all four corners
2 degree rear toe

I am looking to get through the 180s a little faster.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
Looks to me like the back end is almost sliding a little through the corner. Have you tried lighter rear diff fluid?
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Old 11-12-2013, 07:20 PM   #5123
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Not sure if it is sliding or it is me hitting the brakes hard into the first 180 right after the timing gate.

To answer your question, no, I put 2k in when i built the car and haven't tried anything else.
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Old 11-12-2013, 08:58 PM   #5124
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I would go lighter. From watching the other classes run as well it doesn't look like traction is all that high.
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Old 11-13-2013, 05:16 AM   #5125
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Anyone tried to mimic the 14 settings with any luck?
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Old 11-13-2013, 08:14 AM   #5126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meradin View Post
So I am looking for a little tuning advice. I am running a t4'13 in VTA class and am losing ground in the two 180 degree sections. Take a look at this video and you can see what I am talking about. My car is the white one with the stripes. I started in 2nd position.

For a setup everything is stock rubber tire setup with the exception of...
Front diff with 500,000cst
3mm droop over ride height F/R
2000cst in the rear diff
1.5 negative camber on all four corners
2 degree rear toe

I am looking to get through the 180s a little faster.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
I would also say 1K in rear diff. Also try setting rear droop to 2-1/2 to stop as much transfer. Something I also do on tight tracks with low bite and tight turns ..Sounds crazy, But I disconnect my rear sway bar and car feels like it turns better and still has same grip.
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Old 11-13-2013, 08:49 AM   #5127
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A thinner rear swaybar gives more off power steering. On low grip surfaces or when I need more rear stability entering a turn, I run a ticker swaybar in the rear.

A soft rear swaybar gives more aggressive turn in.
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Old 11-13-2013, 09:25 AM   #5128
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[QUOTE=Meradin;12719777]So I am looking for a little tuning advice. I am running a t4'13 in VTA class and am losing ground in the two 180 degree sections. Take a look at this video and you can see what I am talking about. My car is the white one with the stripes. I started in 2nd position.

For a setup everything is stock rubber tire setup with the exception of...
Front diff with 500,000cst
3mm droop over ride height F/R
2000cst in the rear diff
1.5 negative camber on all four corners
2 degree rear toe

I am looking to get through the 180s a little faster.

Sorry but I don't think is really a problem so much with your setup as it it is with your consistency of driving the line. Remember when you get outside of the racing line your tires may get dirty and It will take a few corners to clean up. I agree with John, if you want to go faster around the 180s use thinner rear diff oil. If you want to hug the corner closer without braking that hard (Initial turn-in) reduce your oil thickness on front diff as well or use a ball diff for faster adjustments.
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Old 11-13-2013, 09:27 AM   #5129
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I am not sure about the traction comments. Now, I have very limited experience in this. The local rc club used the Ozite stuff and it was like ice compared to this carpet. I can honestly say that this isn't a low traction carpet. Many times I have been able to run dry tires, no sauce needed.

I will give the suggestions a shot though. As I said, I have limited experience in judging traction levels.

I may first try putting 1k in the diff.
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Old 11-13-2013, 09:49 AM   #5130
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Quote:
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I am not sure about the traction comments. Now, I have very limited experience in this. The local rc club used the Ozite stuff and it was like ice compared to this carpet. I can honestly say that this isn't a low traction carpet. Many times I have been able to run dry tires, no sauce needed.

I will give the suggestions a shot though. As I said, I have limited experience in judging traction levels.

I may first try putting 1k in the diff.
The best thing to do is doing practice laps (same amount) between setup changes by yourself trying to be as consistent as u can so you can appreciate what the change does. Take a day to do this and try everything mentioned before. Take notes, this will let you know what's best for your driving style.
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