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Old 08-14-2013, 04:50 AM   #4681
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Xray T4 2014

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Old 08-14-2013, 05:47 AM   #4682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jorgesimes View Post
Xray T4 2014
If you look at page 305 of this thread, I posted that pic a week ago

It's a prototype of the T4'14
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:54 AM   #4683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bishop View Post
Quick pic, and on mine with this setup, the servo saver will touch the steering post just about the same time your hitting full lock, so not a big deal, depending though on if your trying for more steering travel.
Looks like you have a few things going on there that is preventing more steering
A) at the end of your steering link you need more shimming (4mm)
B) the composite shims you have on your linkage belong at the other end
C) don't use ball cups

This will raise the linkage and allow for more steering, you can dremel where the linkage is hitting a mm or so.
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:05 AM   #4684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oladele View Post
Looks like you have a few things going on there that is preventing more steering
A) at the end of your steering link you need more shimming (4mm)
B) the composite shims you have on your linkage belong at the other end
C) don't use ball cups

This will raise the linkage and allow for more steering, you can dremel where the linkage is hitting a mm or so.
If at full lock his steering knuckles are just off hitting the arm, he has full lock (the shims under the Ackermann plate in the center act as an 'endstop') . So there's no need for more.
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:27 AM   #4685
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Ur servo looks high.
Undo screws through servo put ur stitcher sheet under servo (acting as a spacer so servo doesn't touch chassis. Put ball back in top middle and before doing up servo screws just move it out as far from center against the mount hopefully that will be enough to change the angle of the link.

Not sure if this has been advised yet just something I would try.
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:34 AM   #4686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
If at full lock his steering knuckles are just off hitting the arm, he has full lock (the shims under the Ackermann plate in the center act as an 'endstop') . So there's no need for more.
Skids, question I'm kind of new at this so I could be wrong so I'm asking your opinion. He and I have the same servo when looking at his and mine by me having the 4mm shim it raises the ball joint so when it reaches its max steering or hits the arm it not hitting the ball joint but rather the shim which is about 1-1.5mm slimmer then the ball joint thus giving him more steering, because it can now turn an additional 1-1.5 mm? Please don't take offense I'm learning so I'm asking questions because I'm rather new to Rc.
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:46 AM   #4687
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Um, I posted the picture as an example/result, in that I now have perfect steering throw both direction, with the exact same end points on the radio settings, I can get maximum possible lock each direction without anything touching, it clears the top deck, and does not bind anywhere, it's purely a follow up to past discussion going back a few pages or more.
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:56 AM   #4688
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oladele View Post
Skids, question I'm kind of new at this so I could be wrong so I'm asking your opinion. He and I have the same servo when looking at his and mine by me having the 4mm shim it raises the ball joint so when it reaches its max steering or hits the arm it not hitting the ball joint but rather the shim which is about 1-1.5mm slimmer then the ball joint thus giving him more steering, because it can now turn an additional 1-1.5 mm? Please don't take offense I'm learning so I'm asking questions because I'm rather new to Rc.
That's fine, my response wasn't meant to sound sarcastic (just in case )

When you say 4mm shims are you referring to the shims on the Ackermann plate?
When the shims on that plate hit the steering arms, the steering knuckles should almost be touching the C-hubs. THis helps protect the C-hubs from damage in a crash when on full lock etc.

Do you have some setup gauges with a toe measuring plate? You could use them to see what steering lock you're getting.
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Old 08-14-2013, 01:57 PM   #4689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
That's fine, my response wasn't meant to sound sarcastic (just in case )

When you say 4mm shims are you referring to the shims on the Ackermann plate?
When the shims on that plate hit the steering arms, the steering knuckles should almost be touching the C-hubs. THis helps protect the C-hubs from damage in a crash when on full lock etc.

Do you have some setup gauges with a toe measuring plate? You could use them to see what steering lock you're getting.
Yes that what I was referring to in the case of the 4mm shims. Yes I have the set up tools. I will let you know what I'm getting.
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Old 08-14-2013, 02:19 PM   #4690
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I get 25 left and right, kind of curious what everyone else is getting. I'm measuring steering angle with a hudy setup station.
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Old 08-14-2013, 02:23 PM   #4691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
I get 25 left and right, kind of curious what everyone else is getting. I'm measuring steering angle with a hudy setup station.
thats how i measure mine but when you think about it we're only checking the inside wheel,not the outer wheel which is the one that counts,depending on ackerman settings i think im getting about 20deg on the outer,im getting 23 on the inner
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:54 PM   #4692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chasingthepack View Post
thats how i measure mine but when you think about it we're only checking the inside wheel,not the outer wheel which is the one that counts,depending on ackerman settings i think im getting about 20deg on the outer,im getting 23 on the inner
You can check both the inner and outer wheel with the Hudy setup station.
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:07 PM   #4693
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Any hint at the changes for the 14?
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Old 08-14-2013, 09:02 PM   #4694
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Originally Posted by d.k.vmatt View Post
Any hint at the changes for the 14?
Read the last few pages. There are also pics posted of the '14 prototype.
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Old 08-14-2013, 09:40 PM   #4695
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Ill add to the chassis scratch shots.

Vta isn't friendly, looks like the bottom has been sand papered.





and my tapered rear.


What the photo dosent show is how much has worn away on the rear there, those rear screws don't have a lot of the hex left depth why
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