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Old 08-12-2013, 07:32 PM   #4651
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Originally Posted by mikeohara View Post
I'm looking at buying and setting up a T4 in the near future (I do have a Yokomo BD7 that I'm eyeing as well), and have some general questions about the T4 that I hope you guys can answer.

1.) Is Xray really the best out there for on-road?? I'm wanting to buy something that will last me a good while, through my re-learning of RC (been out of it for a couple years).

2.) Am I gonna have to replace parts all the time? I tend to be a little rough on cars, and will be while I'm looking to relearn how to drive a RC car.

3.) What kind of part support can I expect? My nearest tracks are a couple hours away (Mike's Hobby Shop/Indy RC) in the Dallas area. From what I've been able to tell, XRay parts are more readily available than parts from Yokomo. Can I continue to see this in my shops?

Thanks Guys! Look forward to your answers soon!
2) seems very durable. I have flipped my car a couple times and no damage. The only part I have hurt is my chassis but only cosmetic.

3) I live in L.A and I can't find parts anywhere so I purchase online from amainhobbies. The replacement parts are quite expensive. The foam front bumper cost $12 as an example. 12 m3 screws cost $6
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:13 PM   #4652
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2) seems very durable. I have flipped my car a couple times and no damage. The only part I have hurt is my chassis but only cosmetic.

3) I live in L.A and I can't find parts anywhere so I purchase online from amainhobbies. The replacement parts are quite expensive. The foam front bumper cost $12 as an example. 12 m3 screws cost $6
You can get screws much cheaper from McMaster Carr
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:18 PM   #4653
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I smash my vta into the wall every lap for the last 6 months and only broken 1 chub and 1 knuckle so is say its pretty durable.
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:24 PM   #4654
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You can get screws much cheaper from McMaster Carr
Thanks for the info. Looking into right now
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:25 PM   #4655
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Originally Posted by elee32 View Post
You can get screws much cheaper from McMaster Carr
I prefer ProTek brand from AMain, unless I really want 25+ screws. A local racer/engineer says the strength on the ProTek ones is really good, and they're cheap to throw in with another order, vs. paying for McMaster's shipping costs.

-Mike
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:34 PM   #4656
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I prefer ProTek brand from AMain, unless I really want 25+ screws. A local racer/engineer says the strength on the ProTek ones is really good, and they're cheap to throw in with another order, vs. paying for McMaster's shipping costs.

-Mike
Also great info. Didn't know protek had comparable screws.
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:42 PM   #4657
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thanks for the input guys, will wait for the T4'14 to be official before I start stocking money away for the build.
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Old 08-12-2013, 11:53 PM   #4658
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The Pre-orders for the RX4 Chassis are now on the site. The chassis should be available in 2-3 weeks.






The RX4 chassis has been developed by us to provide a few key things:

1.Narrower in design:
The RX4 is 85mm vs the 94mm for the original T4 chassis. This allows the car to roll deeper in the corners providing more traction. The narrower construction also helps the car in large outdoor asphalt tracks, where cars tend to roll more. Wider chassis cars tend to lose traction in high speed sweepers due to increased chassis rub on the surface of the track.

2.Shorty Pack Option:
Our RX4 Chassis is cut to be shorty pack compatible. In many unlimited weight racing circuits, shorty packs have become quite popular in spec racing. The lighter weight of the shorty pack can allow for much higher power to weight ratios which, when set up right can translate into quicker lap times and reduced tire wear.

3.Captured Pivot Ball and Adjustable Plastic Insert Suspension Mounts (or standard mount compatibility):
Much like the Kyosho TF-6, the RX4 allows for the use of captured pivot ball suspension mounts with different inserts to change the toe angle and track width. The pivot ball suspension, when used with interchangeable plastic inserts is superior to the standard suspension mounts in every way. It still retains the adjustability of the standard mounts, but is lighter, stronger and when used with pivot balls, has less friction as well. The captured ball system does not allow the suspension arm to get loose when clipping curbs or dots, which over a race will allow the car to stay more consistent from beginning to end of the run.

4.Backwards compatible:
If the user still prefers the old style suspension mounting system, the RX4 allows for the use of the original XRAY Parts as well.

The RX4 is made from 2.25mm carbon fiber.

This product listing is for the complete kit which inlcudes:
1.RX4 Chassis
2.RX4 Aluminum Suspension Mounts
3.RX4 Full Plastic insert Set
4.RX4 Front and Rear Stainless Steel Hinge Pins
5.RX4 Hardened Steel Pivot Balls
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Old 08-13-2013, 12:23 AM   #4659
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Very cool, count me in. Forgive me but please link the site

One clarifying question: all the current parts of the T4 would be compatible and able to install on this chassis without purchasing any additional parts?
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:57 AM   #4660
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With that style of suspension mount on the RX4, do the inserts allow any roll center adjustment, or just toe?, I assume if not the blocks would be set fairly low so you can shim up to get the stock T4 roll centers?
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:05 AM   #4661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d.k.vmatt View Post
Post a picture mate
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerz616 View Post
What kind of servo are you using. A picture would be good to see.
Quote:
Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
This can happen (it's very close on mine using a Savox 1251).

The solution is to lower the servo on the mounts. Put a couple of pieces of card between the servo and the overhead carbon mount, then tighten the mounting screws, then remove the card.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
You've almost certainly put the steering arms on the wrong way up
Look carefully at the black plastic parts in the following picture;

Quote:
Originally Posted by PDR TOO View Post
I had a similar problem with a pre built T4 I purchased.

Make sure the flat surface of the turnbuckle is horizontal so that it doesn't hook up on the top deck.

I found that by removing 1mm from the spacers between the ball stud and the servo saver, the slight angle created allowed the turnbuckle to be further to the rear of the curve in the top deck. This was sufficient to stop it catching.

I expect there are minor differences in servo dimensions between brands which will cause these minor irritations.
Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
The only thing I can think of is maybe the servo is sitting too high. My linkage is close, but doesn't hit (although I'm going to go double-check tonight now that you mention it).

-Mike
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjeld View Post
Just take out the 6mm spacer and put on 4mm where the link is mounted to the alu steering plate.. Works for Adrian Berntsen so it works for me
Many thanks for all the quick responses and tips. the problem was fixed when i disconnected and connected again the servo saver to the servo! clearance was already achieved!

can't wait for a holiday to run my baby for the first time
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:57 AM   #4662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
The Pre-orders for the RX4 Chassis are now on the site. The chassis should be available in 2-3 weeks.






The RX4 chassis has been developed by us to provide a few key things:

1.Narrower in design:
The RX4 is 85mm vs the 94mm for the original T4 chassis. This allows the car to roll deeper in the corners providing more traction. The narrower construction also helps the car in large outdoor asphalt tracks, where cars tend to roll more. Wider chassis cars tend to lose traction in high speed sweepers due to increased chassis rub on the surface of the track.

2.Shorty Pack Option:
Our RX4 Chassis is cut to be shorty pack compatible. In many unlimited weight racing circuits, shorty packs have become quite popular in spec racing. The lighter weight of the shorty pack can allow for much higher power to weight ratios which, when set up right can translate into quicker lap times and reduced tire wear.

3.Captured Pivot Ball and Adjustable Plastic Insert Suspension Mounts (or standard mount compatibility):
Much like the Kyosho TF-6, the RX4 allows for the use of captured pivot ball suspension mounts with different inserts to change the toe angle and track width. The pivot ball suspension, when used with interchangeable plastic inserts is superior to the standard suspension mounts in every way. It still retains the adjustability of the standard mounts, but is lighter, stronger and when used with pivot balls, has less friction as well. The captured ball system does not allow the suspension arm to get loose when clipping curbs or dots, which over a race will allow the car to stay more consistent from beginning to end of the run.

4.Backwards compatible:
If the user still prefers the old style suspension mounting system, the RX4 allows for the use of the original XRAY Parts as well.

The RX4 is made from 2.25mm carbon fiber.

This product listing is for the complete kit which inlcudes:
1.RX4 Chassis
2.RX4 Aluminum Suspension Mounts
3.RX4 Full Plastic insert Set
4.RX4 Front and Rear Stainless Steel Hinge Pins
5.RX4 Hardened Steel Pivot Balls
Please Where i can to buy it?
There is a link?
Thks
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Old 08-13-2013, 05:32 AM   #4663
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Google knows Reflex racing . I'm sure it can find the link
;-b
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Old 08-13-2013, 05:54 AM   #4664
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Note with previous posts about steering issues, linkage hitting top deck, and if your anything like me being annoyed the throw is not symmetrical on the radio/settings, some working shortening the linkage tonight, I finally got mine perfect, 130% on the radio EPA settings give perfect near lock point throw either direction, actually 132-135% will get it to touch/hit either direction, so I backed it off to 130% to be safe on the Sanwa MT4.

It was driving me bonkers previously with like 125% one direction, and 145%+ the other, with the T4 manual suggested linkage length and setup angles just seeming all wrong...
(This is all with a Savox 1252 servo)
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:30 AM   #4665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elee32 View Post
You can get screws much cheaper from McMaster Carr
Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I prefer ProTek brand from AMain, unless I really want 25+ screws. A local racer/engineer says the strength on the ProTek ones is really good, and they're cheap to throw in with another order, vs. paying for McMaster's shipping costs.

-Mike
McMaster is good if you want to buy in bulk. If you split the quantity with another racer, splitting the shipping seems appropriate as well. If you don't want to buy in bulk, Tony's Screws are very good, and he sells in small quantities for the less frequently used sizes. Shipping is reasonable as well.

http://www.tonysscrews.com/
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