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Old 08-08-2013, 11:10 PM   #4606
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Your money, your car...

Just keep in mind a new X-ray T4 replacement chassis is already 75% the cost of a brand new Spec R S1.
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:14 PM   #4607
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Damn that T4 for sure has seen better days.
i know i deserve bashing for beating her up...

it's only 2 months old

the chassis is really the only part that is beat up, which is a $112 fix...

the tires are expendable as we all know and i have a pair of brand new slicks for the track
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:47 PM   #4608
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The chassis doesn't look pretty, but aside from .1 mm perfect RH readings no longer likely, I can't see why the chassis would hold you back on the track. Just keep doing what your doing and spend any money on racing and gas. Talk to fast guys at your track and see if they have any time to spare to help you get your car in race shape. I'd bet you will get more "time" out of your car as a result of a knowledgeable racer helping with camber, un-tweaking, proper tire prep, balance etc, thank you will with a new chassis.
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Old 08-09-2013, 12:46 AM   #4609
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Originally Posted by BC2G View Post
i know i deserve bashing for beating her up...

it's only 2 months old

the chassis is really the only part that is beat up, which is a $112 fix...

the tires are expendable as we all know and i have a pair of brand new slicks for the track
Wow... bashing your T4 on the street.... cool I don't think XRAY made them for sitting at home and looking at. If your having fun then cool.

The Chassis on my T4 looks terrible, a product of to much roll and not enough ride height, it only takes a few minutes for a new chassis to get all ugly though.

I guessing that the 2014 T4 chassis will be compatible with the 2013. You might be up for some extras but I can't see them changing the Bulk heads at this point.
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Old 08-09-2013, 03:21 AM   #4610
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
The chassis doesn't look pretty, but aside from .1 mm perfect RH readings no longer likely, I can't see why the chassis would hold you back on the track. Just keep doing what your doing and spend any money on racing and gas. Talk to fast guys at your track and see if they have any time to spare to help you get your car in race shape. I'd bet you will get more "time" out of your car as a result of a knowledgeable racer helping with camber, un-tweaking, proper tire prep, balance etc, thank you will with a new chassis.
+1

The damage looks essentially cosmetic. As long as the plate is not delaminated, I would keep running it.
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Old 08-09-2013, 03:28 AM   #4611
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Originally Posted by BC2G View Post
I really enjoy reading this thread, and watching you guys the masters at work with dialing it in.

I have a question: Am I breaking some unspoken rule of RC by having my T4 as a street queen and running it day in and out on my street?

I very much want to hit the track and keep it in tip top shape; but i need to feel the speed more often then i'm able to make it to the track..

I've noticed my chasis is getting pretty scratched up and I've sparked out many m3 screws at this point and munched up the $13 bumper, Can you guys that are track only post pics of the bottom of your chasis so i can compare.

Forgive the bald tires and the scratched turnbuckles (replacements are coming)


and clearly i have a new chassis purchase coming in the near future, any idea if the T4 2014 chassis will be compatible with the parts

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Old 08-09-2013, 03:43 AM   #4612
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+1

The damage looks essentially cosmetic. As long as the plate is not delaminated, I would keep running it.
+ 1000

Only girls have unscratched chassis...
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Old 08-09-2013, 06:53 AM   #4613
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Put some 3m auto tape on it.

Good on you for enjoying your rc the way you want to.

If you change it to a track queen and still want a fun basher I would get a tt02. Cheap and fun. Easy to make drifter too
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Old 08-09-2013, 06:57 AM   #4614
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Questions??

Could anybody tell if had used these stuffs before?

Even used or not could make a comment about of these stuff worthy or not to have?

http://www.cso.com.hk/htdocs/modules...ex.php?nsn=296
http://www.cso.com.hk/htdocs/modules...ex.php?nsn=315

Best regards
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:43 AM   #4615
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Ordering
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:59 AM   #4616
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Any experience with this brand?
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Old 08-09-2013, 10:10 AM   #4617
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Originally Posted by BC2G View Post


Having just cried about that, it's more that I took my own mint near new T4 and thrashed it round a track today doing first testing with a boosted 5T (first outing with mod for me), and our track is bumpy as shit right right now, so it's no longer looking quite so new either, but end of the day like Nitro or just about any class or scale, the chassis is a wear item.
(But they look so pretty when new...)
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Last edited by Bishop; 08-09-2013 at 10:21 AM.
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Old 08-09-2013, 10:15 AM   #4618
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you only live once friend. and money comes and goes.... its been a blast, i just wish the street was better maintained.
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Old 08-09-2013, 10:16 AM   #4619
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That's why I love carpet! No scratches and the bottom deck always looks pristine.
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Old 08-09-2013, 10:29 AM   #4620
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Could anybody tell if had used these stuffs before?

Even used or not could make a comment about of these stuff worthy or not to have?

http://www.cso.com.hk/htdocs/modules...ex.php?nsn=296
http://www.cso.com.hk/htdocs/modules...ex.php?nsn=315

Best regards
I have not used any of it or anything similar.

But, I would not use the belt tensioner they have shown. It is a nicely integrated piece but I don't think you should put the take up on the bottom of the belt. If there is any slack in the belt that needs to be controlled it's on the top side because the bottom side will have the majority of tension when under load. With the take up on the bottom it's just one more turn for the belt to overcome while it's loaded and will stress the belt and be less efficient. At the same time the top will still be allowed to flop around all it wants under power.

IMO the belt tensioners should not be used strictly to make a belt tighter but to keep control of the loose section of the belt. That makes it smoother, last longer, and stay on the pulley when weird things happen to the car in a crash or other bump. When the belt starts to bounce around uncontrolled it can go anywhere, including off the pulley but that's pretty rare. Leaving this on top stops that and keeps the belt guided properly to the front diff. Most modern cars have enough belt tension built into the diff eccentric that you don't need these to keep the belt tight.

Yep, when you hit the brakes the top is then the tight side, won't matter much unless you're at a high grip track with a mod motor. Even then I'd rather keep the belt controlled and running smooth on the top as it feeds onto the pulley.
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