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Old 08-05-2013, 05:47 AM   #4531
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Default MOTOR SCREWS?????

I have just built two T4 cars and I find that my pinion gear is grinding on the screws that are holding the motor in. Do I have to go to the narrow Xray pinions or is there another fix? I'm really not looking forward to buying 15 or 16 new pinions just for this car......THANKS
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Old 08-05-2013, 06:09 AM   #4532
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I have just built two T4 cars and I find that my pinion gear is grinding on the screws that are holding the motor in. Do I have to go to the narrow Xray pinions or is there another fix? I'm really not looking forward to buying 15 or 16 new pinions just for this car......THANKS
Turn the pinion around so the section with the grub screw is on the battery side
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:00 AM   #4533
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Turn the pinion around so the section with the grub screw is on the battery side
Already tried that, rubbs the battery. I have all CRC pinions and I think the shank is too long. The Xray pinions are probably narrower. (I HOPE)
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:20 AM   #4534
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Already tried that, rubbs the battery. I have all CRC pinions and I think the shank is too long. The Xray pinions are probably narrower. (I HOPE)
Tony, I have no issues with PRS and CRC pinions. What size spur are you running? I'm running a 96 tooth spur on my T4.
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:36 AM   #4535
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We will have probably 2 different versions.

A Standard version which will be just the chassis plate, which can be used with your stock equipment and the toe block version which will include all the hardware you need to convert it (Shorter Hinge Pins, Pivot balls, All the inserts for Toe in Ajustment and the chassis.)

The Standard version should come in at around $79.99

The Toe block version should be roughly around $135.00

Oh, the other thing I failed to mention is the conversion takes off around 25g off of the car. The chassis is only a few grams lighter, but the removal of the large screws that go into the suspension holders, plus the aluminum holders and other miscellaneous items add up!

My car, with every single RSD Accessory, CSO layshaft holders, Spec R Top deck center post, the heavy 6900 EA Packs, Reedy 4.5T motor, GRC Fan, front gear diff with spring steel outdrives comes in at around 1340 grams. I have not added weight to it because it balances out perfectly, but it is nice to be that low without trying.
Very nice let me know when i can order one cant wait.
thanks
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:54 AM   #4536
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Could someone tell me how much exactly a box stock T4 weighs ?

I mean, car complete except for body, electronics, and tyres.

( But WITH wheelnuts and bodyclips ;-)

Thanks !
Anyone ?
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:58 AM   #4537
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Originally Posted by TWILL View Post
I have just built two T4 cars and I find that my pinion gear is grinding on the screws that are holding the motor in. Do I have to go to the narrow Xray pinions or is there another fix? I'm really not looking forward to buying 15 or 16 new pinions just for this car......THANKS
if its for blinky and you are using a 38+ it will fit its just a very fine line between rubbing or not,but as skiddins say it does need to be mounted in reverse,and with anything bigger than a 38 in 48dp you will need to remove the top deck screws for clearance
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:01 AM   #4538
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Already tried that, rubbs the battery. I have all CRC pinions and I think the shank is too long. The Xray pinions are probably narrower. (I HOPE)
it should sit flush with the end of the rotor spindle,they still touch the battery unless you put some thick tape against the locating nuts,the battery must not move from side to side and itll be fine
and the motor screws need to be button heads for more clearance
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:55 AM   #4539
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I had the same issue with the pinions when running 47t+ pinions. I was trying to gear up for stock while running 96t spurs. I found that it was very difficult to get a good mesh without having the pinion contact the motor screws because of the fatter head on motor screw.

What I eventually did was just get normal 3x8mm button head screws and put a 1mm shim between the screw and motor mount. It holds very well (even with my board hitting) and I haven't had the motor move at all.
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Old 08-05-2013, 09:09 AM   #4540
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Anyone ?
It's going to be lite, I never remember to weigh a car at that stage for some reason, all I know is my new T4 weighs something like 100 grams less than the Photon EX it's replacing, which is likely good and bad for me, cause for some upcoming events I'll need to add something like 40-50g to it.


Pinions and spurs are very tight fitting in the T4, I got a very full set of YeahRacing pinions, which seem to be working ok, in part cause they are not very thick, and have a beveled edge off the teeth side, helps just that little bit when reverse mounting and wanting to clear those motor screws.

I found the downside of the smallish button head screws the other night though, someone spun in front of me at speed, and I hit them front bumper to front bumper, hard enough that the motor shifted forward and I lost drive...
To be fair, it was a hard hit, hard enough my servo mount shifted/twisted forward, and my Sanwa receiver case also cracked open from the impact!
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:05 AM   #4541
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ok ,started the race day with a car that was sweet to drive,after 1 round quali im 7th,so the rest of the day im trying to go faster,but this is where it all went wrong,the rear became very loose as the temps came up,i took the 1mm inner link shim off and although a little better its still loose,tried a 1.3 rear bar,still no good,went from 2.7 to 2.6 helped alot (i posted a faster time)but 3/4 mins in the same again,i tried standing them up,laying them down but just couldnt get the rear to grip,was i overheating the tyres? im not sure as i ran a set cold and it was still loose and didnt get better as they warmed,so what should be done and why,thanks

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...D=484&setup=t4
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Last edited by chasingthepack; 08-05-2013 at 10:20 AM.
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:10 AM   #4542
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Tony, I have no issues with PRS and CRC pinions. What size spur are you running? I'm running a 96 tooth spur on my T4.
51,52,....what pinion do you have on in TC. I only ran VTA...
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:29 AM   #4543
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it should sit flush with the end of the rotor spindle,they still touch the battery unless you put some thick tape against the locating nuts,the battery must not move from side to side and itll be fine
and the motor screws need to be button heads for more clearance
I'm using button head screws, but I have used them in the past and end up having to Dremel them out of the car. ( CAN"T GET THEM TIGHT ENOUGH)
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:37 AM   #4544
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I'm using button head screws, but I have used them in the past and end up having to Dremel them out of the car. ( CAN"T GET THEM TIGHT ENOUGH)
i use button heads with a .4 shim and ive never had a problem with them i run 13.5 and used to crash alot,my 12 yr old son (who crashes a lot) has never had a problem,the problem is your tool,if the tip is worn then it will slip in the head,best thing is to refresh the tip by grinding 1mm from the tip,thisll get you down to metal that hasnt worn and itll fit snug
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:38 AM   #4545
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I'm using button head screws, but I have used them in the past and end up having to Dremel them out of the car. ( CAN"T GET THEM TIGHT ENOUGH)
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Motor-Screws-2
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