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Old 07-18-2013, 03:41 AM   #4366
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CSO New upper Deck Post
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Old 07-18-2013, 06:22 AM   #4367
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Originally Posted by chasingthepack View Post
would you say wlrc had high grip levels recently?
just curious,i have tried removing the forward 2 screws but couldnt feel any difference and lap times stayed the same at amcc,im trying to get the rear toe down to 2.5 or 3 from 3.5 but i cant get it around the sweeper as fast with less toe

so really im looking for other solutions to rear grip,rear tyre wear isnt an issue but im killing fronts within 2 runs and still have a small amount of push in the slower corners which if im right losing some rear toe will help with mid /exit steering
Grips pretty good at WLRC until the track gets too hot.
I never run more than 3deg rear toe at Aldershot.
Try removing the rear two screws in the layshaft mounts instead.

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Old 07-18-2013, 09:36 AM   #4368
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Grips pretty good at WLRC until the track gets too hot.
I never run more than 3deg rear toe at Aldershot.
Try removing the rear two screws in the layshaft mounts instead.

Skiddins
i was reluctant to go less on the rear toe,whenever i look at matt q or kierans car they have thicker shims to indicate 3.5 or more unless their widening the whole rear end,they are the most secretive there too,matts quite helpfull,i just want to find that last .5 sec a lap to be in with a chance at the front,it just hasnt clicked for me yet,i havent raced for 3 weeks so really looking to get the job done soon,i just got the car to where i was very consistent low 14's and then it warmed up and im back to square one,chasing the pack,lol
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:39 AM   #4369
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Something interesting going with the motor mount area there.
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:56 AM   #4370
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post


Something interesting going with the motor mount area there.
Thats the option split motor mount that we have tested since the T4 came out. Its just split evenly for both sides of the car for more flex. No one has ever decided if its better or not.

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Old 07-18-2013, 01:44 PM   #4371
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Originally Posted by chasingthepack View Post
i was reluctant to go less on the rear toe,whenever i look at matt q or kierans car they have thicker shims to indicate 3.5 or more unless their widening the whole rear end,they are the most secretive there too,matts quite helpfull,i just want to find that last .5 sec a lap to be in with a chance at the front,it just hasnt clicked for me yet,i havent raced for 3 weeks so really looking to get the job done soon,i just got the car to where i was very consistent low 14's and then it warmed up and im back to square one,chasing the pack,lol
I read one of the xray drivers saying that if your car starts good but gets worse towards the end of the heat, and everything is set good, then you need slightly thicker shock oil.
If it starts bad then gets better, then it's slightly to thin.
This is when comparing two cars where everything else is the same.

Can't remember where I saw it, but it was recently.
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Old 07-18-2013, 03:30 PM   #4372
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Originally Posted by Mullet1 View Post
thoughts on the new closed layshaft bulkhead?

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...e387527b8971a1
Sorry guy's I am the one who have ask for this shape of layshaft bulkheads on the Xray forum.
The reason is like Skiddins metioned that the car produced more grip out of the corners due to better flex (more rubber contact)=more traction=more acceleration.
This type of flex after removing the layshaft bulkheads screws on the topdeck
it gives the yokomo flex type to give more corner speed on carpet tracks.
on asphalt tracks it give not always better results.
And for removing the spurgear compared to the Xray 2012 it is only one screw
extra to be removed as Skiddins mentioned.

Thanks

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Old 07-19-2013, 03:52 AM   #4373
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Originally Posted by Andrew S View Post
I read one of the xray drivers saying that if your car starts good but gets worse towards the end of the heat, and everything is set good, then you need slightly thicker shock oil.
If it starts bad then gets better, then it's slightly to thin.
This is when comparing two cars where everything else is the same.

Can't remember where I saw it, but it was recently.
Hi Colin,

great to hear you like the car.

Thanks for letting us know about the mistake, we will fix it.

I use standard 4 holes 1.1 pistons as we recommend in the kit. This is the best compromise of steering and traction. Well in 99% we do not change pistons, only oil. For low traction we recommend 350 shock oil. When the traction increases, you put harder oil. But for example at the ETS last weekend was super high traction and we stayed with the kit shock setting and car was working well. But there is easy recognition when you need harder oil. When you start your run and you make good lap times and in the second half of the run, your car slows down as it is more difficult to drive and start to stop in the corners, than you over-heat the tires and you need harder oil. When you are slower at the beginning because you have not enough traction and you get faster later on, you need softer oil. But in both cases you do not need to change pistons.

Martin
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:14 AM   #4374
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A question for the UK guys who run the t4

I have looked through the manual re, diff building and the filling with oil is very accurate about how much oil/weight of the diff should be.

I don't want to buy the hudy scales so where could I buy some digital scales that measure in .1g increments?

I looked in Robert dyas yesterday but their most accurate scales only went to the nearest gram?

Where did you guys get your scales from?

Ty
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:59 AM   #4375
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Originally Posted by tc3team View Post
A question for the UK guys who run the t4

I have looked through the manual re, diff building and the filling with oil is very accurate about how much oil/weight of the diff should be.

I don't want to buy the hudy scales so where could I buy some digital scales that measure in .1g increments?

I looked in Robert dyas yesterday but their most accurate scales only went to the nearest gram?

Where did you guys get your scales from?

Ty
I got some crap jewellers scales off Ebay, but you could always just judge it by the pics in the manual
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:46 AM   #4376
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc3team View Post
A question for the UK guys who run the t4

I have looked through the manual re, diff building and the filling with oil is very accurate about how much oil/weight of the diff should be.

I don't want to buy the hudy scales so where could I buy some digital scales that measure in .1g increments?

I looked in Robert dyas yesterday but their most accurate scales only went to the nearest gram?

Where did you guys get your scales from?

Ty
+1 what Skid said, the ebay scales are not half bad, from memory I got four of them for around $30, use them as corner weight scales, but generally they are handy to have around or in a pit bag.
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:49 AM   #4377
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I was able to get a scale that goes up to 2000 grams in .1 increments on Amazon for about ~$15 each. Decided to buy another 3 so I can corner weight my cars. It is pretty useful.
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:58 AM   #4378
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Ok, thanks for that, I'll see what I can find.

I only need them to build the diffs, then I doubt I'd use them again.
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:41 AM   #4379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc3team View Post
A question for the UK guys who run the t4

I have looked through the manual re, diff building and the filling with oil is very accurate about how much oil/weight of the diff should be.

I don't want to buy the hudy scales so where could I buy some digital scales that measure in .1g increments?

I looked in Robert dyas yesterday but their most accurate scales only went to the nearest gram?

Where did you guys get your scales from?

Ty
A handy thing to do is weigh the diff after building, so that you can at any time weigh the diff again to see if you have lost any oil
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:49 AM   #4380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc3team View Post
A question for the UK guys who run the t4

I have looked through the manual re, diff building and the filling with oil is very accurate about how much oil/weight of the diff should be.

I don't want to buy the hudy scales so where could I buy some digital scales that measure in .1g increments?

I looked in Robert dyas yesterday but their most accurate scales only went to the nearest gram?

Where did you guys get your scales from?

Ty
go to a local head shop,these are the people selling drug related things like bongs and papers
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