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Old 07-03-2013, 06:35 AM   #4276
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Had the SpecR ones and in my opinion they were pretty bad... quality was bad and had more play than I liked. When I removed the clips for the first time and tried to put them back they had already bent out of shape. I recommend the K-factory universal ones got mine from local hobby shop for $38 and even comes with plastic caps. Build quality on these are a lot better and hardly any play. The clips did not bend at all and snaps back into place very snug like brand new. I run on large asphalt track with 4.0T motor and beat the crap out of them without any issues. A few other guys at my local track all run them on their T4.

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Old 07-04-2013, 07:12 PM   #4277
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Originally Posted by cyba888 View Post
Had the SpecR ones and in my opinion they were pretty bad... quality was bad and had more play than I liked. When I removed the clips for the first time and tried to put them back they had already bent out of shape. I recommend the K-factory universal ones got mine from local hobby shop for $38 and even comes with plastic caps. Build quality on these are a lot better and hardly any play. The clips did not bend at all and snaps back into place very snug like brand new. I run on large asphalt track with 4.0T motor and beat the crap out of them without any issues. A few other guys at my local track all run them on their T4.


Looks nice. Any modification needed to use them on T4? thx
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Old 07-04-2013, 07:39 PM   #4278
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Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Thx, gonna get me the XRay axles.
A pro seems to me that they are available in 50mm and 52mm.

Is it necessary to use shrink tube?
If so, what diametre?

Sorry for asking but these are my first djc axles.....
Since Xray went to the new 2mm joint pin I have stopped using Heat shrink and have been fine so far. You can use heat shrink as an added safety if you would like to. Just be sure to clean the set screw with motor spray and dry it off before putting on some blue loctite.
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Old 07-04-2013, 08:28 PM   #4279
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Looks nice. Any modification needed to use them on T4? thx
If you plan on using the plastic caps then you would need to get the hudy aluminum spool cups so that it will fit. The plastic caps help protect the spool cups. I had SpecR aluminum spool cups and after a few batteries with 4.0T motor they started to get bent out of shape making slop/play even bigger.
SpecR spool cups



Below K-factory ECS with Hudy plastic cap so far no marks on the spool cups. If you plan on running plastic caps use the Hudy ones they are more flexible and easier to install. The plastic ones that came with the K-factory kit were too stiff I broke both trying to install them...basically useless.


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Old 07-04-2013, 10:10 PM   #4280
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Who makes the orange screws your using? They look great.
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Old 07-05-2013, 03:43 AM   #4281
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The problem with everyone's outdrives (including Xray's) is that the 'walls' of the outdrive need to be thicker so that the entire blade pushes against outdrive, as they are, a lot of the blade sticks out into free air doing nothing.
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Old 07-05-2013, 04:16 AM   #4282
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Who makes the orange screws your using? They look great.
http://www.hiro-seiko.com/product.ph...id=116&id=493#

http://www.hiro-seiko.com/product.ph...id=108&id=479#
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Old 07-05-2013, 05:03 AM   #4283
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
The problem with everyone's outdrives (including Xray's) is that the 'walls' of the outdrive need to be thicker so that the entire blade pushes against outdrive, as they are, a lot of the blade sticks out into free air doing nothing.
If only someone had thought of that.

http://shop.awesomatixusa.com/parts/nikita-outdrives
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Old 07-05-2013, 05:43 AM   #4284
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Thx for the broken link goat
Check out--

http://sidepieceracing.com/products/nikita/
http://shop.awesomatixusa.com/nikita-outdrives.html
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Old 07-05-2013, 06:56 AM   #4285
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The nice thing about the Nikita outdrives is that you rarely have to replace the plastic blades. They don't crack or wear out like they do with Xray outdrives. Like Goat said there's a lot more surface area for the blade to press on.

Last edited by Jon Williams; 07-05-2013 at 08:25 AM.
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Old 07-05-2013, 07:54 AM   #4286
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Originally Posted by Ron Goetter View Post
If only someone had thought of that.

http://shop.awesomatixusa.com/parts/nikita-outdrives
They're fine, but I run a gear diff in the front for Mod (the only time I use blades at the front) so I really need replacement gear diff outdrives that have a larger surface area, not the spool items.

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Old 07-05-2013, 08:21 AM   #4287
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Your welcome buddy...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
They're fine, but I run a gear diff in the front for Mod (the only time I use blades at the front) so I really need replacement gear diff outdrives that have a larger surface area, not the spool items.

Skiddins
While I know what your talkin about I find with diffs and the smaller surface area blades don't wear horribly fast. Spools on the other hand will easily kill a blade in a run or two.
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Old 07-06-2013, 11:08 AM   #4288
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Are there different part numbers for the aluminum shims used for rear ?
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Old 07-07-2013, 01:30 AM   #4289
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What range (tooth) of 64 pinions for 17.5 blinky, do you guys have. 45 to 50?
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Old 07-07-2013, 01:46 AM   #4290
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Around that would be good, assuming you are already outfitted with a 92T spur gear.
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