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Old 05-22-2013, 05:27 AM   #3676
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Originally Posted by Jamison R View Post
Anybody running the killshot motor in the T4 for stock class? If so, care to post a pic of mounting it? Apparently some are having an issue.
Most motors have 6 mounting holes, all evenly spaced around the motor.

The Killshot appears to also have 6 holes, but most are more spread out, with 4 of them almost side by side, almost like old brushed motors.

I should think the position of the holes is not compatible with the T4 motor mount. There are a few other cars with similar mounts.
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Old 05-22-2013, 05:34 AM   #3677
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Originally Posted by chasingthepack View Post
thats not good,if the oil leaked surely it would be noticable,ie dirt sticking to them?

if i can pick your brains for a mo,
im setting up my car for this weekend at wlrc and im starting with

shocks 4 x 1.1 450cst front and rear
3degrees rear toe in
2.7 front 2.5 rear
1.5 camber all round
roll center mid front short rear
droop f 5 r 4
rh 5.5 f 6 r
anything else you might add to that?
have you done the hagberg mod to the t4?

i have another set of shocks that im going to try which are cso
front 2.8 cso spring 3 hole 1.1 400 cst
rear 2.7 xray spring 3 hole 1.1 400cst

just so i can teach myself a bit more about shock settings and what they do,still a grey area for me,thanks in advance
rich
No need for the hagberg T3'12 mod as the T4 has a narrower rear track by design.
I've been running 350 oil in the shocks.

Pretty much it for the rest, but try experimenting with springs etc. if you have any.

Skiddins
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:04 AM   #3678
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Originally Posted by dontfeelcold View Post
I'm in the same boat here, exactly the same problems in all the same areas. The slower the speed, the worse the corner exit oversteer is. The car looks like its diffing out, loses all forward drive and spins inner rear.

I will admit I haven't tried 2k rear diff oil on a medium size track yet. Only small tracks. This makes the understeer worse and does nothing for the on power oversteer. Setup helps with drivability a bit, and I can drive around the problem, but it does nothing for improving the laptimes.

Things I have found to help are:

1mm shims under the inner ball studs
1.3mm bars front and rear (need to try 1.4 front and rear)
5.4 front droop
4.4 rear droop
(any less droop ie 6f 5r = diffing out)
Foam bits in the shock caps

This makes the car driveable, not fast. I still get left behind on tight corners.

I will either try a 2mm chassis or get a new car and get my friend to build it. I swear that guy has magic fingers. Everytime he builds a new car they are fast. Everytime I build a new car, slow
Not again Josh!! it's all in your head
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:23 AM   #3679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
No need for the hagberg T3'12 mod as the T4 has a narrower rear track by design.
I've been running 350 oil in the shocks.

Pretty much it for the rest, but try experimenting with springs etc. if you have any.

Skiddins
i have 2.9's down to 2.5's plus the progressives
when i was there last i only had 2.7 f and 2.3/2.6 r
hence why it wouldnt steer
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:57 AM   #3680
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For those who have Spec-R C.V. Universal Swing Shaft do you also have a lot of play when you twist the wheel forward and back? Not sure if this is normal or not...
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:53 AM   #3681
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Originally Posted by cyba888 View Post
For those who have Spec-R C.V. Universal Swing Shaft do you also have a lot of play when you twist the wheel forward and back? Not sure if this is normal or not...
Although I don't use Spec-R, there is always a small amount of play.
There is some between the dog bone pins and the spool outdrive, then a little in each pin joint where the dog bone meets the axle.

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Old 05-22-2013, 11:16 AM   #3682
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Any other company make ecs drive shaft besides xray and arrowmax?
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:20 AM   #3683
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Originally Posted by cyba888 View Post
For those who have Spec-R C.V. Universal Swing Shaft do you also have a lot of play when you twist the wheel forward and back? Not sure if this is normal or not...
This is not normal and is probably because your shafts are old and have developed play or your spool cups have notches in them.
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:30 AM   #3684
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Any other company make ecs drive shaft besides xray and arrowmax?
Rsd makes some good ones.
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Old 05-22-2013, 04:03 PM   #3685
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Originally Posted by cyba888 View Post
For those who have Spec-R C.V. Universal Swing Shaft do you also have a lot of play when you twist the wheel forward and back? Not sure if this is normal or not...
I ran the Spec R DCJ's in my T312's, for sure they're a little sloppy compared to the Xray ECS's. You've probably got some wear in the cross pins and sleeve's, and if you've got wear in the drive cups... you got play. Parts are cheap for the Spec R's and a set of Xray drive cups is $10, problem solved.
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:44 PM   #3686
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What's wrong with play in the DCJs? I.e. how does it cause a loss of performance / different feel on track, such that I'd be motivated to replace worn parts?

-Mike
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:49 PM   #3687
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I don't like slop or play in things, up to a certain point. The x ray and rsd dcjs seem to wear to a point and stop. I don't like the composite drive cups, they wear a bit and for me they start binding. I run the hudy spring steel cups in stock and mod.
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:38 PM   #3688
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
What's wrong with play in the DCJs? I.e. how does it cause a loss of performance / different feel on track, such that I'd be motivated to replace worn parts?

-Mike
If you've got extra play in the front, when you get on or off the throttle, the rear wheels will react on the surface first. Even though it's just a split second, you can feel it. You're usually transitioning power either entering or exiting corners, so it's important to have all the wheels driving as evenly as possible.
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:41 PM   #3689
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Originally Posted by pcar951 View Post
If you've got extra play in the front, when you get on or off the throttle, the rear wheels will react on the surface first. Even though it's just a split second, you can feel it. You're usually transitioning power either entering or exiting corners, so it's important to have all the wheels driving as evenly as possible.
Is it a similar effect to having the rear belt tighter than the front? I can definitely feel that.

-Mike
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:19 PM   #3690
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Originally Posted by chasingthepack View Post
thats not good,if the oil leaked surely it would be noticable,ie dirt sticking to them?

if i can pick your brains for a mo,
im setting up my car for this weekend at wlrc and im starting with

shocks 4 x 1.1 450cst front and rear
3degrees rear toe in
2.7 front 2.5 rear
1.5 camber all round
roll center mid front short rear
droop f 5 r 4
rh 5.5 f 6 r
anything else you might add to that?
have you done the hagberg mod to the t4?

i have another set of shocks that im going to try which are cso
front 2.8 cso spring 3 hole 1.1 400 cst
rear 2.7 xray spring 3 hole 1.1 400cst wiyth a cso 2.6 to try as well

just so i can teach myself a bit more about shock settings and what they do,still a grey area for me,thanks in advance
rich
What kind of traction is at this track? I ask because I have almost that setup for carpet except the mid roll center in the rear. For asphalt I change the F/F to low RC for a little dive and 1mm shim on the rear inner link (not 2mm) for a low traction track
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