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Old 05-10-2013, 05:40 PM   #3511
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Can someone elaberate on their personal experience running a softer sway bar on the front of the T4, or even t3, like a 1.3 instead of a 1.4 standard bar. Im looking for more steering and trying to figure out if this is the route I want to go. Thank you
Yes, it can give more steering.
But, it can cause the car to be unstable if the back end isn't planted well.
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:10 PM   #3512
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Originally Posted by Tekin Prodigy View Post
Can someone elaberate on their personal experience running a softer sway bar on the front of the T4, or even t3, like a 1.3 instead of a 1.4 standard bar. Im looking for more steering and trying to figure out if this is the route I want to go. Thank you
Generally when changing sway bars it will effect the opposite end of the car.

Think of it this way.

If you are running equal bars both front and rear the roll of the car is the same allowing for equal cross weight distribution.

If you thicken just the front bar up you make the front of the car roll flatter and also allows the cross weight to transfer more to the inside rear wheel allowing it to stay more in contact with the track which in turn gives you more rear traction VIA the inside rear tire.

Now if you go to a thinner front bar it allows the front of the car to roll more. Which in turn lessens the amount of cross weight transfer to the inside rear tire and in turn taking rear traction away. This makes it seem like you have more steering due to the loss of rear traction hence the reason you should not go to a softer front bar if your car is on the edge of being too free.

Also if you do this and you do not feel these changes or it feels like a thinner front bar gave you more steering you are probably on too soft a front spring and the car is using the bar as a spring rate which IMO is bad.

All this being said I generally find setups with big front bars and thin rear bars easier to drive constantly.
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:20 PM   #3513
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Hi everyone,

it has been a back and fort between a TC6.1 and XRAY T4.

i was super close on getting a TC6.1 because of parts availability in the track.

parts are def available for TC6.1 but im a bit worried being a new driver, im going to crash a lot more. i did not want to spend time disassembling my car and replacing parts all the time when i could be racing or just practicing.
after how many parts replaced i probably could have bought a T4.

everyones reviews defenitely helped. it seemed that almost every review about XRAY'S is the car being very durable.

really excited it should be here on WED.

F**k im broke

just spent over 800 after the coupon code


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Old 05-10-2013, 09:04 PM   #3514
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Has anyone found shock pliers that work well on the t4?
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:11 PM   #3515
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Has anyone found shock pliers that work well on the t4?
Just grab the last thread with any pliers cutting edge. Just be careful not to put pressure on the polished part.
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:54 PM   #3516
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I think RSD is working on a pretty sweet solution for shock pliers.
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:06 AM   #3517
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
I think RSD is working on a pretty sweet solution for shock pliers.
Got any details on these? Part number, vendor?
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:52 AM   #3518
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There are heaps of shock pliers that work on the T4 shocks. I think mine are Jet.
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:53 AM   #3519
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Grabbing shocks shafts with pliers is nasty.
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:56 AM   #3520
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Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya View Post
Is this like a temp fix? Also will this create another tweak? I have the same issue on an 12 that I just thought was normal.
If you want to get anal you could make a jig for straightening and measuring the bar tweak so it goes straight in Would be simple.

It creates no extra tweak. Swaybar tweak is nasty, especially on a stiff bar. I regularly check droop and swaybar tweak and my car always goes in a straight line under hard acceleration and hard braking.
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Old 05-11-2013, 04:50 AM   #3521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dontfeelcold View Post
Grabbing shocks shafts with pliers is nasty.
I think he means with the 'cutter' part of the pliers.
TO get the ideal length of the shock you need around 1mm of the thread showing anyway.

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Old 05-11-2013, 06:42 AM   #3522
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i may have been setting my car up in the wrong sequence,can some one exlain the correct way and order to set up the cars droop and ride height,or a run down of how you get your car race ready,cheers guys

i have been setting droop then ride height?
im usure of the over ride height method
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:01 AM   #3523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chasingthepack View Post
i may have been setting my car up in the wrong sequence,can some one exlain the correct way and order to set up the cars droop and ride height,or a run down of how you get your car race ready,cheers guys

i have been setting droop then ride height?
im usure of the over ride height method
Here is a video that will show you how to do the Over ride height method...

Link
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:33 AM   #3524
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Grabbing shocks shafts with pliers is nasty.
Agree. We don't use pliers either.

That is why we came up with a special tool for shock shafts.

http://www.redrc.net/2012/03/team-gr...ck-shaft-tool/
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Old 05-11-2013, 01:49 PM   #3525
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That looks like it would take forever unscrewing/screwing it together. I use http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...5#.UY6gR7Vf3Lc. Work great and no marring of shock shafts.
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