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Old 05-05-2013, 09:44 PM   #3436
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Originally Posted by RCknight View Post
What I wish is that Xray would make shorter steering mount posts so we could just flip the whole steering rack. That way we could mount the servo link in the middle like the BD. Lower CG and no steering stop. This always made more sense to me. Anyone out that can CNC some short aluminum or titanium posts?
Just flip the posts over, and space them up... did the same trick on my 411 to lower that steering rack. Chopped the top of the posts off (done after the attached picture) and it works fine
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Old 05-05-2013, 09:56 PM   #3437
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The beauty of 64p gears (if you are into final drive ratios and tire rollouts ) is you can get so much closer to your target gearing. Gonna hash a few gears but thats the price you pay.
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Old 05-06-2013, 02:00 AM   #3438
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I have 48P 78/40 on my car right now and I don't think I can get another tooth on it.

While we are talking about 48P gears... Anyone know where I can get a spur gear smaller than 78T in 48P? I wanted to go up a tooth or 2 today but couldn't and the 78T spur was the smallest spur I found. I really dont want to switch to 64P since I have all kinds of 48P pinion gears that I use on my offroad cars too.
I was stuck at 78/40 as well!
RW Racing do a whole range, their T2/T3 offset spurs fit a treat

Available from RW themselves or Demon Power Products
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Old 05-06-2013, 02:11 AM   #3439
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Originally Posted by chasingthepack View Post
118 would be 64 dp = 118/38 or 100/18
48dp would be 87/34 or 69/12
this is from the xray fdr sheet
NOT the number of teeth on the spur gear - but max & min number of teeth of spur and pinion added together.

118 teeth total = 78/40 or 85/33 or 87/31, it is any easy way to know the biggest combination of spur gear/ pinion you can get to fit.

So if you have an 87 spur and want to fit a 40 tooth pinion you know there is not enough movement in the motor mount to fit as that combination has a total number of teeth of 127

Same with the minimum if you know the minimum total number of teeth you can work out if a spur /pinion combination will work.
I bought 3 spurs, wanted to run 60/33 to get 3.6 but couldn't get the pinion anywhere near the spur! so you need more teeth than 93 total!

Thanks Skiddins
looks like 99 makes sense
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Last edited by Barry_Hughes; 05-06-2013 at 02:49 AM. Reason: added more explanation
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:01 AM   #3440
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Nice, I'll have to take a closer look at the T4 and see. Your looks nice, but I hate my chop jobs. I was kinda was hoping Xray would give us the option.

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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Just flip the posts over, and space them up... did the same trick on my 411 to lower that steering rack. Chopped the top of the posts off (done after the attached picture) and it works fine
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:38 AM   #3441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhautz View Post
I have 48P 78/40 on my car right now and I don't think I can get another tooth on it.

While we are talking about 48P gears... Anyone know where I can get a spur gear smaller than 78T in 48P? I wanted to go up a tooth or 2 today but couldn't and the 78T spur was the smallest spur I found. I really dont want to switch to 64P since I have all kinds of 48P pinion gears that I use on my offroad cars too.
in the uk we tend to use rw spurs,which are made from delrin,and go very low,i dont know the extent to their range but you could do a search,my sons tc6 has 69/43 fdr 3.21 for 17.5 blinky on a long straight track
and i run them on the t4 running 82/28 fdr 5.56on the same track but in 13.5b,but i dont use the offset gears just the flat ones with no problem
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:00 AM   #3442
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Originally Posted by Barry_Hughes View Post
NOT the number of teeth on the spur gear - but max & min number of teeth of spur and pinion added together.
oops my bad,ive never looked at gearing in that way,i just stick to fdr's
old school i guess,ive been away for too long
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:25 AM   #3443
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ok guys i need some advice on anti squat,i know im losing time on the brakes as the front is diving too much,now to cure this on a tc6 i would just stiffen the front slightly,but this doesn't work on the t4,so is anyone using a shim under fr mounts ? if so which size shim? and are there a few variations? thanks in advance

Rich
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:28 AM   #3444
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Last edited by chasingthepack; 05-06-2013 at 08:15 AM.
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Old 05-06-2013, 07:15 AM   #3445
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Just flip the posts over, and space them up... did the same trick on my 411 to lower that steering rack. Chopped the top of the posts off (done after the attached picture) and it works fine
Can you show me a few more pics or break it down how it was done?
Don have to get too much into detail just start me off and I'm sure it'll be self explanatory
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:40 AM   #3446
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Originally Posted by chasingthepack View Post
ok guys i need some advice on anti squat,i know im losing time on the brakes as the front is diving too much,now to cure this on a tc6 i would just stiffen the front slightly,but this doesn't work on the t4,so is anyone using a shim under fr mounts ? if so which size shim? and are there a few variations? thanks in advance

Rich
You could try reducing rear droop instead to stop in throwing the weight forward during braking.
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Old 05-06-2013, 01:38 PM   #3447
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Originally Posted by RCknight View Post
Nice, I'll have to take a closer look at the T4 and see. Your looks nice, but I hate my chop jobs. I was kinda was hoping Xray would give us the option.
If you really want to add more steering to your T4 the easy way look at where the steering is limited, the composite steering arms are hitting the centre round spacer.

You will see the area that causes the problem, get a round file the same profile as the centre round spacer and file away until you get the steering arms hitting the front C hub, this is the maximum throw which is the same as the T3.

Simple but effective
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Old 05-06-2013, 01:42 PM   #3448
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Originally Posted by gbyfield View Post
If you really want to add more steering to your T4 the easy way look at where the steering is limited, the composite steering arms are hitting the centre round spacer.

You will see the area that causes the problem, get a round file the same profile as the centre round spacer and file away until you get the steering arms hitting the front C hub, this is the maximum throw which is the same as the T3.

Simple but effective
Or buy this.
http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-XRAY...ff_p_1753.html
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Old 05-06-2013, 01:54 PM   #3449
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I popped along to the Nationals yesterday at Cotswolds,the car did look very good,and well done on the wins in the finals,
I was a bit dissapointed how the pit tent looked a bit "closed shop" and all it missed was two bodyguards out the front,it did look smart thought lol
it was the only car i didnt get to have a look at to help me choose my next car,
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:47 PM   #3450
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
You could try reducing rear droop instead to stop in throwing the weight forward during braking.
wouldn't doing that affect the corner speed?i was think either changing the arm mounts so the front wishbone is slightly angled down or the same with the shims under fr mount so it wont dive or lift the front ,droop is at 4 on hudy so wouldnt want to reduce it more,at amcc the car was doing 14.69 so still looking for that other .7 sec,which tbh is in my driving mostly as im still holding back at the chicane
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