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Old 04-14-2013, 06:37 PM   #3241
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I noticed today that the metal ball that the lower shock mounts to is very tight and doesn't pivot properly. I checked the T4 build manual and it says to have the shiney side away from the metal ball ??? is this right ? TBH I tried it both ways round and its still tight. Ive never had this problem with any xray before. Any ideas
That the ball out, by pressing with force using a 3mm I do this over an open pliers. Once you have it out, if you can put the 3mm end in a drill and using a sub pad, take the black coating off. After you do this, then polish it with Alum polish. Put back in correctly...

Or change out the plastic end...
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:28 PM   #3242
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Originally Posted by FLAT OUT View Post
I noticed today that the metal ball that the lower shock mounts to is very tight and doesn't pivot properly. I checked the T4 build manual and it says to have the shiney side away from the metal ball ??? is this right ? TBH I tried it both ways round and its still tight. Ive never had this problem with any xray before. Any ideas
-Remove the ball, and check if the shock shaft is visible on the ball end.
-The shiny end goes against the arms.
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:53 PM   #3243
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On the bottom, the shiny side faces away from the car.
On the top, the shiny side faces the car.
Make sure the shaft is not threaded too far into the eyelet.

Try unthreading the shaft and see if the joint loosens.
There should be no need to polish or reshape/crush anything.
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:55 PM   #3244
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Originally Posted by FLAT OUT View Post
I noticed today that the metal ball that the lower shock mounts to is very tight and doesn't pivot properly. I checked the T4 build manual and it says to have the shiney side away from the metal ball ??? is this right ? TBH I tried it both ways round and its still tight. Ive never had this problem with any xray before. Any ideas
Like Andrew said, I can guarantee you over threaded the shock shaft into the shock end. I can say this because I did it too :P

With the T4, unlike with other brands of cars, you should have the ridge on the shock shafts that come before the threads showing. In other words, just loosen up your rod ends and it should be great.
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:07 PM   #3245
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I haven't done it to mine yet, but I see Andrew's cars all the time. It's a small cut down the middle, from the center of the forked area at the front just down to the first hole that some people use for a belt tensioner or an extra body post.
Got it.. Many thanks....
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:42 AM   #3246
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So, what's the secret of saucing for low to medium grip asphalt? What works best? Which sauce, what do you clean the tires with, how long before the race, etc......? Should I use tire warmers? Temps currently ranging from 70-90 degrees F....
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:49 AM   #3247
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So, what's the secret of saucing for low to medium grip asphalt? What works best? Which sauce, what do you clean the tires with, how long before the race, etc......? Should I use tire warmers? Temps currently ranging from 70-90 degrees F....
What tyres are you using and how much grip does the track have?
Do nitro cars also run on the same track?
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Old 04-15-2013, 11:48 AM   #3248
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-Remove the ball, and check if the shock shaft is visible on the ball end.
-The shiny end goes against the arms.

Lol yep I screwed the lower eyelet on to tight and the shock shaft was showing through causing the ball to bind up. DOH !! all good now though
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Old 04-15-2013, 12:04 PM   #3249
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What tyres are you using and how much grip does the track have?
Do nitro cars also run on the same track?
Solaris hards. low grip which builds to medium grip throughout the day. Maybe 3 nitro cars will be running on the track, the same day..
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Old 04-15-2013, 01:30 PM   #3250
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Solaris hards. low grip which builds to medium grip throughout the day. Maybe 3 nitro cars will be running on the track, the same day..
I've liked the AME Asphalt recently, but haven't tried it yet on a track that also has nitro's run on it (they leave behind a lot of oil etc).

So perhaps CS Max Grip, Rheinard MR33 or any of the other thicker oil based additives.

I always use warmers with the additive, both for around 20 mins.
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Old 04-15-2013, 02:47 PM   #3251
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Solaris hards. low grip which builds to medium grip throughout the day. Maybe 3 nitro cars will be running on the track, the same day..
Fx2 with Warmers for 15 minutes
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Old 04-15-2013, 03:10 PM   #3252
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can anyone tell me what the is size in millimeters of the rear suspension arm
where the upright between
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Old 04-15-2013, 06:47 PM   #3253
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I have built my gear diff with just the paper gasket, and filled it as per instructions to 9.2 grams in weight. Im wondering is this to much oil ?? mine leaks between the two diff halves.
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Old 04-15-2013, 06:49 PM   #3254
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I have built my gear diff with just the paper gasket, and filled it as per instructions to 9.2 grams in weight. Im wondering is this to much oil ?? mine leaks between the two diff halves.
Dumb question, but the two halves are definitely lined up right, the notches?
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Old 04-16-2013, 12:28 AM   #3255
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I have built my gear diff with just the paper gasket, and filled it as per instructions to 9.2 grams in weight. Im wondering is this to much oil ?? mine leaks between the two diff halves.
I haven't used the rubber gasket since the first time I built the diff, don't think it really matters but I'm not an expert...
Definitely check if the 2 halves are lined up right since I've never heard of an xray diff leaking and not even a drop out of mine so far, I didn't line the halves up on my old spec r diff in my photon one time in a rush and the oil was gone in the first few hrs probably sooner but checked after a few hrs
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