erchn

iTrader: (7)

I would try 2.5 rear springs, and widening the front track width just a bit, maybe 1.9-2mm at the arm mounts. The springs should give you better on power steering, and the wider front end will smooth the front end out a bit.

Skiddins

Have you tried different tyres?

I ask as when first ran the kit setup with Sorex 28JB it was instantly the best handling car I'd ever had on carpet.
Do the wishbones etc move nice and freely?
Put the rear roll bar back on, it helps the car transition better (i'm up to a 1.3 rear bar)

daleburr

Yep change the tyres to some Sorex and you'll be fine.

rustlerboi1052

iTrader: (19)

I'm running 17.5 blinky sedan with spec sweep blue tyres. I will try the spec tires and set up the car again back to baseline. I will look into the changes you guys mentioned if this tyre change doesn't do anything.
I wanted to run my CS 22's because there was no groove in the track yet . Also I wanted to break everything in on a set of old tyres and save the specs for race day.
Thanks for the replies all.

Skiddins

Ok.
Come back and let us know how it goes, good or bad.

BrianH28

I just ordered a T4 and was looking for advise on what spear parts to order. What parts seem to break the most?

klaymon

iTrader: (71)

None. In all seriousness, I flipped my car into a concrete wall on a sweeper 3 times in 1 day and did not use a single part. However, I think the usual stuff to get would be a right and left caster block, front arm, rear arm, rear hub and front hub. These cars are super durable.

j.d.roost

iTrader: (32)

Yep.
Also..grab some wheel bearings and ecs pins.
Shock bladder's,orings and ecs blades.
It's a nice convenience to have a full built ecs at the track too (if you run them).
It's very hard to break a part on these cars. I usually wear stuff out 1st.

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

I think there are a few solutions or suggestions I should say. I would try one of these. I'm sure you know all of these but I'm just trying to help.

1. I would just play with shock positions first. More upright in the rear and more progressive in the front will change the way your car acts dramatically. This is the easiest and fastest way to play around and I found it extremely effective in many occasions.

2. Provided that your car accelerates and breaks ok w/o loosing grip, I would put some anti squat in the rear. I honestly don't know what stock set up is like in T4 but if there isn't any, it should help a lot. On on-power, your car's rear sits down and provides more grip. Then your car wants to turn in wider angle due to the traction provided by the sitting of the rear. This is natural. But if you put anti-squat, the car resists to squat in the rear meaning that it will provide not as much grip in the rear leading to more oversteer than when there isn't any anti squat. On off-power(or breaking), the opposite happens causing loose rear end(oversteer). To reduce this, you also put anti squat because the rear end will not stand up as fast as when there isn't any anti squat.
I would not touch the front dive at first. But you can try Anti Dive with anti squat. Make sure to change your caster to apply the pure effect of anti dive. I just would not touch this. Too much hassle.

3. Similar effect can be acheived by putting harder springs or harder damping in the rear. I would not touch the front spring or pistons until you've tried different rear set ups. I'm telling you from my experience cuz I've tried so many different setting and none of them yielded good result and made me confused. Well maybe you'll have better luck than mine

4. You can shorten wheel base for faster steering response but it doesn't usually give you the solution to the problem.

5. Wider rear track width increases traction in the rear under braking and under off power steering so that the car understeers.

Again, shock position can be easily changed and you will see a noticible difference. I'd try it first and move on to anti squat. I used to have same exact problem and solved it with combination of both two. I'd make sure to try ONE AT A TIME.

nerdling

iTrader: (8)

I've been working on a setup on my T3 for carpet/foam racing with a similar problem, mainly the over steering off power. I cured this (really effectively as it turns out) by dialing in some anti drive on the rear (where the front of the rear hinge pins are angled up compared to the chassis). This setting causes the rear to resist unloading during acceleration.

Try this and see how you go. Hopefully you get a car that under-steers but does not over steer under slow down.

Remember, fix one problem at a time.

I also changed to a Front Diff (instead of a Spool) but this won't help with the under-steer.

To address the Under-steer I would install the rear bar, maybe go 1 or 2 steps thicker than standard and see what happens.

Let us know how you go.

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

So you agree with me then. I'm sort of glad to see your comment because you seem like a dude with some credentials LOL

Nathan Wilson

hi, been struggling with my T4 for a while now, well not really struggling just trying to get that last little bit out of it. It feels as though i cant really drive it hard, the rear tends to break loose on some corners but it also feels as though i cant attack the corner. On some tight/hairpins once i have gone round the corner its like i have to wait till the car is straight to get on the power or oversteer happens.

brief set up - sorex 28s ride height front 5 rear 5.3 mazda speed 6

Front. 2.7 450cst 1.4mm roll bar, shock hole 2 from middle, middle camber link 1mm outer 2mm inner
Rear. 2.5 450cst 1.3mm roll bar, shock hole hole 2 from middle, short camber link 4mm outer 1mm inner

Thanks

Skiddins

Have a look at my setups for the T4 for Newbury;
http://www.piez0r.com/Skiddins/Xray%...etups/?C=M;O=D

artwork

iTrader: (88)

what surface and what class (motor) are you running?

Kwikvdub

iTrader: (100)

Hey Guys, Can you use these on the T4??...... Didn't mention it on the description.....Thanks!.....http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Set-Orange-4