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Old 03-10-2013, 08:02 AM   #2926
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my belt sits at an angle at the bottom and it rubs the antenna base... anyone else have this problem?



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Old 03-10-2013, 08:06 AM   #2927
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When I first built mine my front belt was twisted too. I just kept twisting it back a section at a time until it was flat. I think I did each part of the belt twice.
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Old 03-10-2013, 03:01 PM   #2928
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I filed a flat spot on my antenna base to clear the belt.
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:20 PM   #2929
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Thanks for the tips
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:47 AM   #2930
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Hey guys,

we are having a serious problem of rear belt snapping. I am talking about belts not lasting more than 4 heats of 5 minutes. Anything you guys have done to prevent this?? Less tension on the belt? Track is not dusty/dirty and no pebbles/rocks/dirt was found on the diff/pulleys.
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:11 AM   #2931
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My rear belt also snapped because of small rock/pebble but you won't see it stuck at the pulley...
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:11 AM   #2932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpenteer View Post
Hey guys,

we are having a serious problem of rear belt snapping. I am talking about belts not lasting more than 4 heats of 5 minutes. Anything you guys have done to prevent this?? Less tension on the belt? Track is not dusty/dirty and no pebbles/rocks/dirt was found on the diff/pulleys.
I've been running the same belt since I bought the car. My belt is pretty loose, just tight enough to not slip. But I run 17.5 on carpet so it may be different in mod and/or on asphalt

Keep your pulleys clean too
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:13 AM   #2933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpenteer View Post
Hey guys,

we are having a serious problem of rear belt snapping. I am talking about belts not lasting more than 4 heats of 5 minutes. Anything you guys have done to prevent this?? Less tension on the belt? Track is not dusty/dirty and no pebbles/rocks/dirt was found on the diff/pulleys.
Hmm i have not seen this problem. For 17.5 blink I run the eccentric at its loosest position with the diff down. For mod a little bit tighter. There should still be a little slack though.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:10 AM   #2934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpenteer View Post
Hey guys,

we are having a serious problem of rear belt snapping. I am talking about belts not lasting more than 4 heats of 5 minutes. Anything you guys have done to prevent this?? Less tension on the belt? Track is not dusty/dirty and no pebbles/rocks/dirt was found on the diff/pulleys.
This is caused due to the belt being loose. It is especially bad on tracks with long straights and mod motors. I usually run my belt 1 notch tighter than the manual and after 2-3 runs I tighten it another notch.

Also, the Spec R R1 rear belt fits and is more durable than the XRAY one. Crazy stuff.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:14 AM   #2935
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Make sure your pinion isn't rubbing the belt.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:21 AM   #2936
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyba888 View Post
My rear belt also snapped because of small rock/pebble but you won't see it stuck at the pulley...
How did you know it was a rock/pebble if it wasn't stuck in the pulley??


Quote:
Originally Posted by kuruption View Post
I've been running the same belt since I bought the car. My belt is pretty loose, just tight enough to not slip. But I run 17.5 on carpet so it may be different in mod and/or on asphalt

Keep your pulleys clean too
Pulleys are kept very clean, we are running mod motors, so I know belts can take a hard fall. Yet, this problem never happened with T3 '12 cars. I know because I had run 5-6 race meets without any belt problems on the same motors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
This is caused due to the belt being loose. It is especially bad on tracks with long straights and mod motors. I usually run my belt 1 notch tighter than the manual and after 2-3 runs I tighten it another notch.

Also, the Spec R R1 rear belt fits and is more durable than the XRAY one. Crazy stuff.
I'll give the Spec R belt a try. The belts are real tight like the manual says. We have tried 1 notch looser and 1 notch tighter, still breaks.

Yes, the straightway is very long and we are using mod motors.


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Make sure your pinion isn't rubbing the belt.
Yep, made sure of that.

I'll guess I'll start trying other brand's belts.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:21 AM   #2937
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:52 AM   #2938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpenteer View Post
Hey guys,

we are having a serious problem of rear belt snapping. I am talking about belts not lasting more than 4 heats of 5 minutes. Anything you guys have done to prevent this?? Less tension on the belt? Track is not dusty/dirty and no pebbles/rocks/dirt was found on the diff/pulleys.
Try running the front belt on a tighter setting than the rear to help even on load on throttle between the two belts.
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Old 03-11-2013, 02:09 PM   #2939
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Dash anybody know someting about BRCA rules, I have a LTC-R body that have a cutting mark on the side squirts this is BRCA cutting line, I wonder?
Is the BRCA not handling the EFRA or roar regulations.
Is there somebody who can explain this.
thanks
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Old 03-11-2013, 02:31 PM   #2940
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Originally Posted by eded1 View Post
Dash anybody know someting about BRCA rules, I have a LTC-R body that have a cutting mark on the side squirts this is BRCA cutting line, I wonder?
Is the BRCA not handling the EFRA or roar regulations.
Is there somebody who can explain this.
thanks
I have never understood the cut llines on the bodies, as no-one uses them.

A lot of body rules were changed at the end of last year to simplify them. These are the current BRCA body rules (for 2013);

http://www.centralbooking.org/cbs/im...-12-2012_0.pdf

In short, you need to be carefull of the rear wing size (190*40*20mm) which includes the endplates, and mount it directly onto the body.

There is no minimum roof height but the wing must be below your roof, the size of the wings means it should never stick above the roof line.
Some of the rear and front valance & bumpers must still be left on the body, like the ETS;
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Last edited by Skiddins; 03-11-2013 at 02:41 PM.
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