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Old 02-05-2013, 11:47 AM   #2626
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Hey guys, been a while since I last posted but obviosuly we have been busy testing and preparing for the Snowbirds. It was a great race for us and the cars worked extremely well making these setups a perfect starting point for tracks with new CRC carpet/subfloors. We are not too far from our home track setup, so I expect most of you will be able to use them at your local tracks as well, but more than likely a few tweaks will be needed.

As requested(by many I might add) , here are the setups from Andrew Hardmans modified and superstock cars.

Enjoy.
Any particular reason for using 48dp??
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:49 AM   #2627
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Originally Posted by CoreyW. View Post
Hey guys, been a while since I last posted but obviosuly we have been busy testing and preparing for the Snowbirds. It was a great race for us and the cars worked extremely well making these setups a perfect starting point for tracks with new CRC carpet/subfloors. We are not too far from our home track setup, so I expect most of you will be able to use them at your local tracks as well, but more than likely a few tweaks will be needed.

As requested(by many I might add) , here are the setups from Andrew Hardmans modified and superstock cars.

Enjoy.
Thanks for posting these setups... they look great. Any way you could post a pic of the cut top deck...these things are not cheap so screwing it up could suck!
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:12 PM   #2628
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Any particular reason for using 48dp??
Strictly durability But you can also use different gear sets to move the motor forward/rearward- just another tuning option really.
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:14 PM   #2629
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2pc blocks in F/R? Any issues with durability doing that?

I need to convert your droop settings to over right height when I get home.

Thanks for posting these!
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:15 PM   #2630
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Thanks for posting these setups... they look great. Any way you could post a pic of the cut top deck...these things are not cheap so screwing it up could suck!
Don't have the cars with me but it really is easier than it sounds. You cut front the front to the middle screw hole(the one that is right above the steering rack). As long as your drill bit is thinner than the diameter of the hole, you can't mess it up. Once cut, it will flex from the furthest outside points the pre-drilled hole rather than your cut line. Take a look at the stock deck and you will see what I mean.
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:19 PM   #2631
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2pc blocks in F/R? Any issues with durability doing that?

I need to convert your droop settings to over right height when I get home.

Thanks for posting these!
No durability issues at all. Funny enough, I usually measure over ride height but I thought more people wanted droop block settings. Above ride height it should translate to 2mm front and 2.5mm rear. Keep in mind, when I measured form the droop blocks on the fornt end, I used the set screw housing on the c-hub as my reference point.


Note: The Superstock sheet shows 48P gears when really it was meant to say 64P.
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:34 PM   #2632
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Thanks Corey

Always like looking at setup sheets to try and see what people have done.

Both setups look like you were trying to get a lot of turn in/steering (lower front upper links etc), why didn't you use the 1.3mm roll bar at the front on the stock setup, and did you try arm sweep at all?

Would running 2.7 springs front and rear at the Snowbirds have reduced grip/steering at all?

Thanks
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:37 PM   #2633
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Thanks Corey

Always like looking at setup sheets to try and see what people have done.

Both setups look like you were trying to get a lot of turn in/steering (lower front upper links etc), why didn't you use the 1.3mm roll bar at the front on the stock setup, and did you try arm sweep at all?

Would running 2.7 springs front and rear at the Snowbirds have reduced grip/steering at all?

Thanks
Skiddins
You would be correct - Andrew likes allot of steering in and out of the corner. He gets to the power much quicker then most and sometimes it can be a challenge finding the balance between push and oversteer. The heavier diff oil was the best change we made all weekend. The track seemed to have allot of forward bite, atleast thats we found, therefore we could use the thicker oil which gave Andrew drive off the corner.

I am not sure how the 2.7's would have worked but at this track, you need to compromise between good transition speed(2 chicanes) and the ability to carve or wrap around the many 180 degree corners. We found the car did both very well, and in some rounds, we were nearly 2 tenths quicker per lap then the next fastest car. When that is the case, only minor changes to the setup are needed, usually only if Andrew was looking for a different "feel" for the way the car drove.
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Old 02-05-2013, 03:57 PM   #2634
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So did the 2.3 springs front and rear offer more steering and traction than the 2.5's all round?

Thanks
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:20 PM   #2635
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Corey - what fluids did you run? 313cst shock oil? 2.5kcst diff fluid?
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:21 PM   #2636
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The 2.5 million diff fluid is probably GravityRC. Nexus has it.
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:28 PM   #2637
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The 2.5 million diff fluid is probably GravityRC. Nexus has it.
i'm fully aware of the Gravity RC stuff... looks interesting. i'm interested in the other oils.
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:33 PM   #2638
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Fully!!!
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:37 PM   #2639
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Fully!!!
dam right.
fully.
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Old 02-05-2013, 06:08 PM   #2640
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i'm fully aware of the Gravity RC stuff... looks interesting. i'm interested in the other oils.
He is using the 2.3s with the optional arms (2 hole) so its probably about the same.
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