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Old 01-08-2013, 01:47 PM   #2326
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The diff when spinning around is like a jyroscope. (Stabilizes the role center the higher it is ) closer to center allows the car to lean more quickly while going fast . Think this shows up more the faster u go . This is my thinking anyways .
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Old 01-08-2013, 01:54 PM   #2327
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So longer links = more rotation, shorter = less? When is the next time that you'll be at Thunder? I looked at Paul's latest setup sheet, think it would work for VTA being that I'm much slower speeds and 1550g heavy?
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Old 01-08-2013, 02:06 PM   #2328
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Yes, longer links will make the car roll more. Here is a link to the directions for the new style upper clamps. I can't remember if the instruction manual was so detailed or not. I keep this in my pit bag and refer to it a lot.
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...with Adj. Roll

If you use longer links you may need to play with your droop. Running low droop (high # on gauge) will counter act the benefit of the chassis rolling, IMO.
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Old 01-08-2013, 02:23 PM   #2329
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Where your roll centers are in the rear has a difference in diff height too. If your roll center on the arm mounts is high like most setups lower the diff is going to cause some roll-bind because of the angle the drive shafts will be at. I dont like the low diff/high roll center as much.

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Old 01-08-2013, 02:52 PM   #2330
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I dont like the low diff/high roll center as much.

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Son of a B!#@*, that is probably why my car felt so funky. I had no way to explain how it felt, I just knew it was not right.
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:24 PM   #2331
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Son of a B!#@*, that is probably why my car felt so funky. I had no way to explain how it felt, I just knew it was not right.
Adam, lower your rear roll centers to the middle and try again, low rear diff, you will like it. Sorry bro, i didn't know/probably forgot, you were running the high centers..... i thought it locked in the rear of my car at the Gate. probably too much that it caused the rear wheel nut to come loose... loose nut syndrome....
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:43 PM   #2332
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
Where your roll centers are in the rear has a difference in diff height too. If your roll center on the arm mounts is high like most setups lower the diff is going to cause some roll-bind because of the angle the drive shafts will be at. I dont like the low diff/high roll center as much.

EA
Are you refering to the +.75 mounts in the kit? I've always run the 0s. Sunday I could pull trigger at pit lane and not let off til the sweeper turn because everytime I would turn a different direction in the chicane the car would slow itself down like i was letting off, but I wasn't. I did find some evidence of the chassis scrubbing the track on the right side only, but thats the side that dips at the end of the str8 and i was hitting it at full speed.

I have 1 more raceday before ThunderJam and I'd like to have some ideas about what to do to free it up in the turns without loosing traction/steering. I need to get the car right so I have a chance at the D Main

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Originally Posted by Adam B View Post
Yes, longer links will make the car roll more. Here is a link to the directions for the new style upper clamps. I can't remember if the instruction manual was so detailed or not. I keep this in my pit bag and refer to it a lot.
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...with Adj. Roll

If you use longer links you may need to play with your droop. Running low droop (high # on gauge) will counter act the benefit of the chassis rolling, IMO.
Thanks for the link, thats what I need for the whole car That explained everything simply ans understandable.
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:18 PM   #2333
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Originally Posted by alloyslash View Post
I have 1 more raceday before ThunderJam and I'd like to have some ideas about what to do to free it up in the turns without loosing traction/steering. I need to get the car right so I have a chance at the D Main
What body are you using?
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:27 PM   #2334
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I'll be at thunder Sunday hopefully I can get Eric to drive my car and see what he thinks (assuming traction is around what it was in the Hudy race
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:28 PM   #2335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam B View Post
Yes, longer links will make the car roll more. Here is a link to the directions for the new style upper clamps. I can't remember if the instruction manual was so detailed or not. I keep this in my pit bag and refer to it a lot.
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...with Adj. Roll

If you use longer links you may need to play with your droop. Running low droop (high # on gauge) will counter act the benefit of the chassis rolling, IMO.
Good stuff Adam. Printed and in my pit bag.
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:47 PM   #2336
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Alloy I would think u scrubbing speed in chacine is either cause ur over steering the car or car is diffing out cause of the fast change in direction
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:06 AM   #2337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lycan View Post
What body are you using?
The body is an HPI '68 Camaro with no spoiler, runs in the USVTA class

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I'll be at thunder Sunday hopefully I can get Eric to drive my car and see what he thinks (assuming traction is around what it was in the Hudy race
I will be there also. If you have a spare minute sunday, would you drive my car and give me some input as to what it needs. You may be right, I may be diff'n out because the car appears to "slingshot" once its strait. I bought 4 sets of different springs for it, so I have enough to experiment with.

Question about weight placement. Is it ok to put weight in the front bumper? I've heard that it'll actually make the car plow from some people, and I've also heard that it'll improve steering. I have to add around 100g to the car to be legal
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Old 01-09-2013, 05:01 AM   #2338
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Originally Posted by alloyslash View Post
The body is an HPI '68 Camaro with no spoiler, runs in the USVTA class



I will be there also. If you have a spare minute sunday, would you drive my car and give me some input as to what it needs. You may be right, I may be diff'n out because the car appears to "slingshot" once its strait. I bought 4 sets of different springs for it, so I have enough to experiment with.

Question about weight placement. Is it ok to put weight in the front bumper? I've heard that it'll actually make the car plow from some people, and I've also heard that it'll improve steering. I have to add around 100g to the car to be legal
Sure would love to . Adding weight to front of car will make it a slug thru the turns . It will slow reaction time from left to right and make it less responsive domineering imput, basically taking away steering in entry and mid corner .
U need to have the lead loaded before u start tuning cause 100g will affect set up no matter where u put it , mainally cause it's going to raise cg. Try to stack it around the center I was able to get 42g in my TC and I'm sure I could add 40 more between belt
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:16 AM   #2339
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Adam, lower your rear roll centers to the middle and try again, low rear diff, you will like it. Sorry bro, i didn't know/probably forgot, you were running the high centers..... i thought it locked in the rear of my car at the Gate. probably too much that it caused the rear wheel nut to come loose... loose nut syndrome....
I think the diff position changes the center of gravity basically. With running the higher roll centers lowers all the weight in the rear (bulkhead, motor, diff, etc) and not just the diff. That is probably why my car felt good before and has always been planted. The only changes I have made to my initial setup was when grip is low, I put medium rear uprights on. EA made an awesome point about axle angle and binding. If the rear was more like an ECS, there wouldn't be as much issue. I feel so dumb not thinking about that though... Working on cars and trucks (more so trucks) we are always looking at driveline angle as possible vibration issues. Another reason I enjoy touring car, it is the closest thing to a real car we can race as far as geometry and so forth.
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:21 AM   #2340
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The T4 in VTA has to be so annoying. My car is is right at the weight for touring car. I would hate to have to add that much weight to this kit. I had a 10 with an Exotek chassis, I stuffed weight all over the place on that thing and the only way to make it legal was running the stupid driver figure. I think I had a whole strip of lead under the belt, weight on the servo, battery, and I had long wires just to be legal. I feel for those running a legal T4 in VTA.
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