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Old 01-07-2013, 08:31 PM   #2311
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Originally Posted by alloyslash View Post
Believe it or not, its a 3x5x0.5 aluminum shim. As I said its the factory kit screws. I have all the proof I need sitting here on the table and in the performance on the track yesterday, and there is nothing incorrect that I'm seeing.
But their are some people having issues, I was trying to help with a solution, I ran without washers and had no issues, I crashed hard enough to test if mine would fail! I did 1 spur when a car jumped track and we head oned! I was glad all I broke was a spur!

U said a washer would never bend into the grove, I gave an example of how it could. Due to the strength of the washers on the lmr screws I feel confident when I say u could never bend it into the grove.

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Old 01-08-2013, 02:05 AM   #2312
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i like to use titanium screws that are 2mm longer than standard and use a couple of xray or other brand 3x6x2mm thick shims/spacers...
never had a single issue with motor movement since.....
also the tekin motor screws are also worth trying
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:12 AM   #2313
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For the motor I use kit screws with no washers, just like it shows in the manual. Never a problem.
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:44 AM   #2314
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U guys do know X-ray wasn't the first car to use this style of motor mount ? Josh Cyril's had this style mount made of 4mm thick cf in 2010 novak race (on his prototype photon) the has put it on his 2 cefxs cars and never heard of one person piss and moan about stripped spurs . Now his mount was flemzy and would bend and tweak the chassis but mesh was still correct ... can we move on to set up and handling talk about this car please . 50pages of the same hand full of people talking about motor screws and spurs makes me wish we could start this thread over ,again.
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:52 AM   #2315
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There is something just wrong with Davin's car. I was thinking like Bigz and thought maybe it was a something to do with chassis flex. But, the motor mount is attached to the layshaft bulkhead, so I find it sort of hard to think it is a flex issue, unless the holes are out of round where the screws go through the bulkhead into the mount, or those screws are bent. Assuming his mesh is proper, and the motor is not moving, it has to be a bent part or a flex issue. A good side hit could easily tweak the mount. What if the motor bearings are bad? It might be something so silly that it can be overlooked easily.

It is unfortunate that he, and some others are having this issue and not able to enjoy this fine car to its fullest. So instead of throwing him under the bus, we should use this thread as it was intended for and give support or ideas. Nothing more frustrating then spending $500 on a toy that don't work.

That being said, I am by far not a good driver, and have had my fair share of hard hits. At Indoor champs, my car was hit off the track multiple times, but never had a problem.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:44 AM   #2316
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
U guys do know X-ray wasn't the first car to use this style of motor mount ? Josh Cyril's had this style mount made of 4mm thick cf in 2010 novak race (on his prototype photon) the has put it on his 2 cefxs cars and never heard of one person piss and moan about stripped spurs . Now his mount was flemzy and would bend and tweak the chassis but mesh was still correct ... can we move on to set up and handling talk about this car please . 50pages of the same hand full of people talking about motor screws and spurs makes me wish we could start this thread over ,again.
No problems here and trust me I'd know, all for moving on with setup info
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:05 AM   #2317
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If you guys havent tried the Reflex Racing Xray battery retainers your missing out! I put some on my car this past week and noticed the car was more consistent left to right. Took some super hard hits and battery never came out. It does move around a little but thats how its designed. Just ordered another set for my 2nd car that will be here today!

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Old 01-08-2013, 08:21 AM   #2318
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
If you guys havent tried the Reflex Racing Xray battery retainers your missing out! I put some on my car this past week and noticed the car was more consistent left to right. Took some super hard hits and battery never came out. It does move around a little but thats how its designed. Just ordered another set for my 2nd car that will be here today!

EA
I have a huge roll of low profile double side tape. I just double side tape the battery to the chassis then use battery tape to secure it. Never had a battery come off or shift around this way.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:25 AM   #2319
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I have a huge roll of low profile double side tape. I just double side tape the battery to the chassis then use battery tape to secure it. Never had a battery come off or shift around this way.
The servo tape works well to allow chassis flex on that side as well. But if you wrap the tape to tight it defeats the purpose as it locks the battery back down on the chassis.

I know Paul only uses servo tape! But I hit to much stuff for that! Race announcer: "High in the sweaper...EA's battery is out AGAIN!"

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Old 01-08-2013, 08:25 AM   #2320
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The T4's motor mount was designed to allow for more flex, and they did have issues during the design phase with stripped spurs before adding an extra screw.

While Davin is the most vocal, he's not the only person that's experienced this. Perhaps there's an edge case that XRay might want to know about. Have you tried contacting Martin Hudy on the XRay forums?

Quote:
The last bulkhead to be redesigned was the motor mount. Since everyone runs only the brushless motors today I decided on a radical design change. By mounting the motor using 2 screws in the lowest position, I was able to remove the majority of the material from the motor mount.

I wanted to be sure that this motor mount would be beneficial for car performance and therefore I made two different motor mounts to test. The first motor mount would hold the motor in the lower position while the second one would mount the motor in the traditional center position. With these two different prototypes I could quickly change the bulkheads and test the difference back to back. After some initial sketches of the lowered motor mount another idea came to my mind - to make the mount fully separated from the central bulkheads, which would allow me to use identical layshaft bulkheads on the right and left side.

My initial enthusiasm was cooled after the first tests when I kept breaking the spur gear as a result of excess flex. I recognized that the motor mount was fixed to the layshaft bulkhead with just 1 screw so, without much thinking about complicated solutions, I drilled an extra hole and installed a second screw which immediately solved the problem. From that moment onwards there was no spur gear problem anymore. I was surprised that a small part like the motor mount could have such significant influence on the traction. The comparisons using the same track conditions with the standard motor mount and this new lowered mount validated my theories regarding the motor mount system.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:33 AM   #2321
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
The servo tape works well to allow chassis flex on that side as well. But if you wrap the tape to tight it defeats the purpose as it locks the battery back down on the chassis.

I know Paul only uses servo tape! But I hit to much stuff for that! Race announcer: "High in the sweaper...EA's battery is out AGAIN!"

EA
Well, there is different kind of solutions for everybody.
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:13 AM   #2322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
If you guys havent tried the Reflex Racing Xray battery retainers your missing out! I put some on my car this past week and noticed the car was more consistent left to right. Took some super hard hits and battery never came out. It does move around a little but thats how its designed. Just ordered another set for my 2nd car that will be here today!

EA
+1; I think they are the bees knees.
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Old 01-08-2013, 12:36 PM   #2323
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I ran the last race with both of my diffs in the "up" positions. I've seen where some setups have the rear in the down position. If I were to change the rear to "down", what would it change in the car's driving?
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Old 01-08-2013, 01:34 PM   #2324
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I ran the last race with both of my diffs in the "up" positions. I've seen where some setups have the rear in the down position. If I were to change the rear to "down", what would it change in the car's driving?
It will depend on the rest of your setup actually. The down position is supposed to give you more on power rear bite, and gives the car a push. I run mine usually in the upper position, and at a race recently one of my friends tried it and loved it. I tried it (lower), and it slowed me down and the car just didn't feel right.
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Last edited by Adam B; 01-08-2013 at 01:58 PM.
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Old 01-08-2013, 01:44 PM   #2325
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My car had the box "carpet" setup on it except 2000cst in diff and links in the #2 holes on inside. 1st race on it. I went with a 2.5f/2.3r progressive spring combo, but when traction came up it seemed like it was scrubbing alot of speed off in the tighter turns. I went back to the 2.7f and it got better, but seemed to push a little on power then.

I don't know what all adjustments do to a car yet, trying to learn. If my chassis is over rotating (leaning) in the turns too much would shortening the camber links help it?
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