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Old 01-03-2013, 11:20 PM   #2176
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For those who have been running xray for a while, is this their best kit yet? I am wanting to get in to on road and hear xray is the way to go. And I like the fact that the t4 is a totally new car....
It's the best x ray I've ever driven.
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:04 AM   #2177
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It seems to be a lot better overall from what I have seen.
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:50 AM   #2178
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My Previous Xray was a T3 2011 for 2011. I didn't like it and struggled with balance all season. Raced F1 for 2012 and have just picked up a Xray T4 (was considering the TRF417 V5 as well) to get back into TC for 2013. Car first time I drove it worked perfectly. Was amazed how much of an improvement out of the box the car was so for me yes the T4 is definitely the best Xray yet.
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:38 AM   #2179
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I actually rebuilt my shocks first time since kit build 6 race days old . 3 were flawless but one was empty ... not sure if this was cause of a wreck or what but I will keep tabs on it from here out . It seemed to happen all at once . So it was probably a wreck and just didn't notice any oil on arm .
Are you racing Thunder this weekend? I plan on having my T4 done by then and on the track.
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:53 AM   #2180
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anyone tried cso docks
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:00 AM   #2181
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Originally Posted by Outtacontrol58 View Post
For those who have been running xray for a while, is this their best kit yet? I am wanting to get in to on road and hear xray is the way to go. And I like the fact that the t4 is a totally new car....
First, because it is a new car, usually it is not something you want to buy right away. But that is not the case with this kit. Xray had a few mistakes in the 11 & 12 kits, even though they were still very good cars, the T4 is a lot better. Right out of the box the car is very easy to drive. People on this thread are also very helpful. Get the car and enjoy one of the best designed products offered to us.
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:11 AM   #2182
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T4 is amazing so tame standard very safe and quick, it can be made more aggressive less tame and is even quicker. T4 is the way forward, it will out drive u before u it!!
The car is very consistent and if u have the power and ability then u keep it clean their is no reason why u can't be near the top of the pack. Unless your whole club has t4's then all I can say is someone needs to be last! Lol

If their is people that have not brought a new car for this season I can only suggest get the t4, it works very well learn it and love it.

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Old 01-04-2013, 06:15 AM   #2183
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Hi guys, I've just bought my T4 and it's actually my first touring car. is there anything I need to know about the T4 I've started the build last night, I'm very impress with the quality of the kit.

I've got the 64P 106T spur, What pinion should I start with 10.5T ?? Also is the long belt tensioner necessary? I've been told to get one as well.

Thanks.
Not exactly sure where to start with your pinion, but are you going to run the car boosted, or blinky? That will make a difference.

My kit went together great, but people on this thread have had pinion issues. Make sure you assemble the motor mount as the directions state. Also, make sure you have proper length motor screws and possibly put a small shim/washer behind the motor screw. Make sure your motor holes are in good shape. Unless you use Xray pinions, the pinion gear goes on "backwards", meaning the set screw towards the battery, its not a big deal, just a touch harder to change. The reason is the car was designed with the narrow Xray pinions in mind. Another thing I learned from reading through this thread was the rear roll center blocks could twist a little during assembly causing the A-arm to hang up. Again, nothing I, or others I know had an issue with, but read it here.

And finally, the belt tensioner. I do not run one. It does serve a purpose though, and that is to keep the belt stable and in theory allow for more consistent power to the front. You can also use it for tuning. The diffs can be rotated to change the belt tension. For example a tighter front belt might cause the car to pull out of a corner a little better, giving it close to a shaft driven car feel. You could tighten the belt with the tensioner, see how it feels, then rotate the diff to a proper position. I wouldn't use the tensioner all the time, but for a quick tuning change, why not?
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:52 AM   #2184
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Are you racing Thunder this weekend? I plan on having my T4 done by then and on the track.
I'm in st Louis at the hudy championship race this weekend
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:55 AM   #2185
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guys newbie question... if i have my packs hooked up like the one shown in the picture below. am i able to charge it at 5 or 10amps? Thanks!

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Old 01-04-2013, 08:14 AM   #2186
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guys newbie question... if i have my packs hooked up like the one shown in the picture below. am i able to charge it at 5 or 10amps? Thanks!
Not sure what this has to do with a T4...maybe an XB4, but anyway, most modern cells are rated for over 5C charge rates. Should be fine at 10A. The configuration shown is the same as most standard stick packs. I usually charge mine at 12A or more.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:35 AM   #2187
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thanks! oops I posted on wrong thread LOL
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:16 AM   #2188
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Originally Posted by Adam B View Post

And finally, the belt tensioner. I do not run one. It does serve a purpose though, and that is to keep the belt stable and in theory allow for more consistent power to the front. You can also use it for tuning. The diffs can be rotated to change the belt tension. For example a tighter front belt might cause the car to pull out of a corner a little better, giving it close to a shaft driven car feel. You could tighten the belt with the tensioner, see how it feels, then rotate the diff to a proper position. I wouldn't use the tensioner all the time, but for a quick tuning change, why not?
I'm personally having issues with my front belt being a little long, which makes me run the eccentrics 3-4 notches back to get a tight front belt, which is lowering the diff. I'm going to be running a belt tensioner for the that issue, which should allow me to run my eccentrics as desired.

Conversely, my rear belt is too tight, and I have to run the eccentrics 1 notch from full back to get it loose enough, and it's still a little tight. Same as I had to do on my '11, I'm running a TOP racing rear belt, same tooth count but slightly longer, works very well.

IOW, I think a belt tensioner has it's place all the time, depending on your needs.
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:33 PM   #2189
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I'm running a TOP racing rear belt, same tooth count but slightly longer.
It can't have the same tooth count and pitch etc whilst also being longer, unless the belt is really stretched.

The difference in the height of the diff when the eccentrics are rotated is very small, the whole point of the diff eccentrics is that they have the notches specifically for tension, not tiny changes in diff height.

Using a belt tensioner to permanently supply all the tension will also add drag to the drivetrain.
Most people I know who use one have it just off the front belt so it stops the belt from resonating, they never use it to set the actual tension.

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Old 01-04-2013, 07:51 PM   #2190
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^that was also the purpose on the yokomo I had.
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