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Old 12-31-2012, 09:00 AM   #2131
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How does it compare to your BD7?
Not as smooth, more numb feel, just as fast. Equal in my opinion.
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:15 AM   #2132
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Not as smooth, more numb feel, just as fast. Equal in my opinion.
Interesting, we have a few BD7's knocking around at the current UK carpet events, one guy went from a T4 to the BD7 and his looks amazing.
The guys running them seem to finish roughly where they would have before (with any other car).
Can't wait for the outdoor season to start so we can see some of the different cars doing some proper racing

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Old 12-31-2012, 10:30 AM   #2133
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None of my rotors have a long enough flat spot to run a pinion with the collar towards the motor. I found the PRS pinions have too wide a collar to fit with the collar facing the battery.
A Dremel with a grinding wheel makes quick work of extending the flat spot. Grinding the motor shaft wouldn't be my first choice, but easier to deal with than replacing a whole rack of pinions.
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Old 12-31-2012, 10:43 AM   #2134
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A Dremel with a grinding wheel makes quick work of extending the flat spot. Grinding the motor shaft wouldn't be my first choice, but easier to deal with than replacing a whole rack of pinions.
This is what I've been doing, unfortunately. Just have to be careful as the shaft material is pretty soft and it doesn't take much to grind a decent spot.
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Old 12-31-2012, 02:12 PM   #2135
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Default Xray T2 Help...

Hi Guy's

First off Happy new year to everyone.

Now, i know this is a T4 thread, but you guys seem to know your X-Rays really well.

I made a custom lipo back stops for my T2 007. The question i have is, the battery is sticking out little too much from the body. But the car is very balanced. Does it really matter for me to raise the upper deck to slide the battery in or should i just leave it like this (don't like the idea of raising the upper deck).

Also this is going to running on Rubber tires on carpet. I had it set up long time a go on foams tires. What kind of springs do you recommend for rubber?

I have not raced this in over 6 years now so any advice would be great. It will be running in 17.5 blinky.

Here some picks.







Thanks
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Old 12-31-2012, 02:46 PM   #2136
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Hi Guy's

First off Happy new year to everyone.

Now, i know this is a T4 thread, but you guys seem to know your X-Rays really well.

I made a custom lipo back stops for my T2 007. The question i have is, the battery is sticking out little too much from the body. But the car is very balanced. Does it really matter for me to raise the upper deck to slide the battery in or should i just leave it like this (don't like the idea of raising the upper deck).

Also this is going to running on Rubber tires on carpet. I had it set up long time a go on foams tires. What kind of springs do you recommend for rubber?

I have not raced this in over 6 years now so any advice would be great. It will be running in 17.5 blinky.


Thanks
I wouldnt raise the top deck . But I have balanced a car or 2 by hanging the battery over the side of the car and it makes it feel lazy in the fast corners . Sweepers and suck I never had a problem but it was hard to tune the car to both types of turns with a wide layout. Think this could be one of the reasons the T4 is more consistent the small layout area keeps the weight centered and more dense than before making it more agile allowing one to tune for the entire track instead of just one or 2 areas of the track
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Old 12-31-2012, 03:18 PM   #2137
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I would raise the top deck. That's what I did with my 007. I made some rectangle and square shims out of .070 aluminium sheet. It worked great, then I added weights on the outsIde of the battery to balance the car. That's what Xray did, raised the top deck and moved everything closer to the centerline.

Last edited by porsche928gs; 12-31-2012 at 03:45 PM.
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:03 PM   #2138
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I currently run a T2'07 in VTA, run EAMotorsports 70c5000 packs and don't have the top plate lifted, basically same position as you. I run HUDY tape to hold the battery down tho, due to the battery plate possibly introducing tweak in a crash. I run the optional top plate without the post allowances and that seemed to make the car more responsive. Just try it and see, then take the posts off and see if you like the differance. Remember, if you raise the top plate you will be lifting the top bearing up off the steering rack

I run white springs front, yellow rear
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:15 PM   #2139
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I currently run a T2'07 in VTA, run EAMotorsports 70c5000 packs and don't have the top plate lifted, basically same position as you. I run HUDY tape to hold the battery down tho, due to the battery plate possibly introducing tweak in a crash. I run the optional top plate without the post allowances and that seemed to make the car more responsive. Just try it and see, then take the posts off and see if you like the differance. Remember, if you raise the top plate you will be lifting the top bearing up off the steering rack
I put a c clip big enough under each steering bearing holder ( top deck and chassis) to keep the steering post secured. It worked great for me but it may be easier to buy a low profile battery. The only drawback is that you would have to add more weight to the size of the battery.
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:31 PM   #2140
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I'm headed out to the shed to start working on the new T4 I got in today I finally got one. I just hope I can get all the edging done and sealed tonight so I can start putting it together tomorrow.
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Old 12-31-2012, 05:28 PM   #2141
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Originally Posted by porsche928gs View Post
I put a c clip big enough under each steering bearing holder ( top deck and chassis) to keep the steering post secured. It worked great for me but it may be easier to buy a low profile battery. The only drawback is that you would have to add more weight to the size of the battery.
Thank's guys.

I know i de-railed the thread a little but really appreciate the help. I will run it like this and see how it goes. If i don't like the way it handles i will raise the top deck.

Yellow and white springs. Got it.

cheers,
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:19 AM   #2142
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Ok, I got the chassis's edge rounded off and sealed and I'm fixing to start slowly assembling everything. I plan on trying it out in VTA. I know I'll be adding alot of weight to the chassis in order to make the 1550g minimum. I have a couple friends that are machinists, so I have some plans on custom chassis weights once I get it all done and figure what I need.

I need some opinions. I run a large high grip carpet track and have been using 2000cst in the rear diff, along with 425cst in all 4 shocks of my T3'12. Should I go with that, or with the supplied oils? 700cst just seems to be alot lighter than what I've been using. I have a pack of O rings and diff gaskets coming already, so changing later isn't that big a deal.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:25 AM   #2143
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Allow go 2k in diff but use the 350 oil and the 4x1.1 pistons . I don't think the new shocks can be compared to the old shock set ups . Cause of the larger surface area of the pistons .
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:40 AM   #2144
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So as far as link, diff, and shock positions go should I just set it all up per the supplied setup sheet with the exception of the foam shock inserts?
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:47 AM   #2145
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http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...ID=64&setup=t4

Use this set up . Been working great for me
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