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Old 12-10-2012, 02:33 PM   #1846
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Originally Posted by rafyel View Post
+CSO aluminum "downgrades" (I went back to Composite parts, I didn't like the handling at all)
Looks like a lot of added unsprung weight.

Only ever bought a couple of CSO parts..... total arse gravy!
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:15 PM   #1847
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Looks like a lot of added unsprung weight.

Only ever bought a couple of CSO parts..... total arse gravy!
Lol!!
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Old 12-10-2012, 06:02 PM   #1848
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Really, I was thinking of getting the 2mm chassis they have for my 11.
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Old 12-10-2012, 06:25 PM   #1849
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Looks like a lot of added unsprung weight.

Only ever bought a couple of CSO parts..... total arse gravy!
Yeah, I never intended to drive this car - it was intended to be my trophy with all flashy upgrades to sit in a glass box. I couldn't find a second car in stock and was to impatient to wait eager to experience the feel of the T4. Now I have parts I'll never use again.

As far as aluminum - I installed the black Zeppin Racing upgrades on my T3'12 and it made a very positive difference in corning control in low traction conditions.
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:47 AM   #1850
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A+ New Option Parts for T4
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The New Xray T4 '13-ap-21810-1.jpg   The New Xray T4 '13-ap-21023-1.jpg  
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Old 12-11-2012, 08:29 AM   #1851
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CSO Aluminum Floatable servo mount
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The New Xray T4 '13-image.jpg  
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:38 AM   #1852
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I am not getting free movement on my rear suspension arm on the pivot pin once I fully tighten up the Optional Fine Roll-Center Adjusment (302049-O) to the Lower suspension holder (30244)...would it be ok to place a a 3x1mm composite shim between both to free up the movement or do I have to ream out the arms...i say this because i have total free movment when not tightened...thanks
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:34 AM   #1853
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Originally Posted by badKarma View Post
I am not getting free movement on my rear suspension arm on the pivot pin once I fully tighten up the Optional Fine Roll-Center Adjusment (302049-O) to the Lower suspension holder (30244)...would it be ok to place a a 3x1mm composite shim between both to free up the movement or do I have to ream out the arms...i say this because i have total free movment when not tightened...thanks
Try starting here.


It's probably the same issue, the rear-forward left side block can twist a little on tightening.
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:02 AM   #1854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badKarma View Post
I am not getting free movement on my rear suspension arm on the pivot pin once I fully tighten up the Optional Fine Roll-Center Adjusment (302049-O) to the Lower suspension holder (30244)...would it be ok to place a a 3x1mm composite shim between both to free up the movement or do I have to ream out the arms...i say this because i have total free movment when not tightened...thanks
First, don't ream your arms.

Start with both suspension holders loose. Tighten one of them as you firmly press the arm against it with your finger (e.g. for the right rear of the car, I usually tighten the back screw first as I squeeze my left thumb on the bulkhead and my left index finger on the arm just in front of the droop screw). Then, tighten the other suspension holder in a similar fashion as you firmly press the arm against it with your finger. The arm will be free. Repeat for the other arm(s).
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:07 AM   #1855
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Originally Posted by erchn View Post
Try starting here.


It's probably the same issue, the rear-forward left side block can twist a little on tightening.

Erchn,
thanks man...worked like a charm...
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Old 12-11-2012, 03:10 PM   #1856
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Looks like a lot of added unsprung weight.

Only ever bought a couple of CSO parts..... total arse gravy!
Good point point it add unsprung weight, and it is good to know
that the composite lower suspension arms are more heavy than other brands.
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:39 AM   #1857
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What oil and pistons(how many holes+ diameter) is everyone running in medium to high traction conditions?
And how much chassis scrub/rubber build up on the edges do you have?

I'm asking because I seem to be running way harder oil than anyone else (judging from the setupsheets I saw).
I'm normally running 450 to 500 Much More Oil to get rid of chassis scrub(with 4x1.1mm pistons).

Regards
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:49 AM   #1858
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niemand View Post
What oil and pistons(how many holes+ diameter) is everyone running in medium to high traction conditions?
And how much chassis scrub/rubber build up on the edges do you have?

I'm asking because I seem to be running way harder oil than anyone else (judging from the setupsheets I saw).
I'm normally running 450 to 500 Much More Oil to get rid of chassis scrub(with 4x1.1mm pistons).

Regards
I read in the Paul L thread that his Cleveland setup gets rid of scrub according to one testimony.
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:11 PM   #1859
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I've noticed an issue with the new motor mount that may answer why some people have been stripping spurs.

When I first ran the car I stripped a spur within 2 batteries, put it down to perhaps not tightening the motor enough. I replaced the spur and ran the rest of the day without issue (or so I thought).

While going over the car after the days racing I noticed the motor had moved and the pinion was just engaging, luckily it didn't cost me another spur. As I was adjusting the motor after putting the car back together I noticed that there is enough play between the motor screws and the mount that should a screw loosen slightly, there is enough play that will allow the mesh to tighten or loosen significantly. I put this down to the mount being at the bottom of the motor. If this occurred on the original mount it would not have been as much of an issue due to the motor mounting along the motor centreline.

This is mainly to make people aware to be careful when adjusting the motor and to be wary of how the mesh changes as you rotate the motor CW or CCW when adjusting and tightening the screws. I'm thinking of getting some lock washers to ensure the screws don't come loose.

I will also take a bit more notice to see which way the motor wants to rotate so I can hold it that way when I tighten it to remove the tendency for it to rotate and change the mesh should a screw loosen.
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:47 PM   #1860
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I have always (with the T4) pushed my motor towards the chassis making sure the 2 screws were resting on the bottom of mount. I do wish the motor mount slots were just wide enough for screws . Or had special screws to fill gap...
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