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Old 11-15-2012, 01:05 PM   #1531
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I am putting my kit together and I have a bad part. The metal sleeve that goes into roll center holders isn't machined, it is round still.

Who do I contact about replacement? My LHS?
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:06 PM   #1532
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Originally Posted by rescue119 View Post
harder to find the parts on the ground... I like it though...now it would be better in tamiya blue
Nah, then people might think it's that aqua colored play-doh that Tamiya calls aluminum.
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:30 PM   #1533
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
I am putting my kit together and I have a bad part. The metal sleeve that goes into roll center holders isn't machined, it is round still.

Who do I contact about replacement? My LHS?
I had one like that, I also have a file
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:31 PM   #1534
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
I am putting my kit together and I have a bad part. The metal sleeve that goes into roll center holders isn't machined, it is round still.

Who do I contact about replacement? My LHS?
info@teamxray.com should get you sorted out.
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Old 11-15-2012, 02:22 PM   #1535
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Originally Posted by rescue119 View Post
harder to find the parts on the ground... I like it though...now it would be better in tamiya blue
I`ll just wait for the T4R to come out (hopefully in the same finish as the T3R)
and then just switch the alu parts with the ones of my T4 (and sell the orange T4R)
And I'll have a unique T4 in the classic Xray look (T2'008 and before)
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Old 11-15-2012, 02:46 PM   #1536
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I`ll just wait for the T4R to come out (hopefully in the same finish as the T3R)
and then just switch the alu parts with the ones of my T4 (and sell the orange T4R)
And I'll have a unique T4 in the classic Xray look (T2'008 and before)
It would be a lot cheaper to strip and polish the orange off of your parts..
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:11 PM   #1537
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It would be a lot cheaper to strip and polish the orange off of your parts..
Well, I would need to polish them afterwards to get the same finish which is very time consuming.
And reselling the T4R as a complete kit with used bulkheads would at max cost me 30-40 bucks in total
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Old 11-16-2012, 08:30 AM   #1538
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I finished the car up last night just in time for club racing tonight. Only had one weird part.

My big concern however it the motor/pinion area. Time will tell if that mount holds up to my "erratic" driving style.

Now...that pinion is a bugger! I can't wrap my head around how they intend you to access the grub screw through the bottom hole. Not even close. I can get it from the top either. I had to take the motor off to tighten the pinion. I am going to have to stare at it for a while to figure this out.

In many of the pictures I have seen people are running their pinion with the skinny part towards the battery. This wont work for me as my motor shaft isn't long enough. The only way I could make that work is by turning rhe spur gear around and having it be closer to the short belt. That way I could slide the pinion on the shaft further and use the chasis hole I think.

Any drawbacks to this? How are others doing this?
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Old 11-16-2012, 08:50 AM   #1539
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
How are others doing this?
I took the top deck off to set the pinion position. Can also do it with the battery out with the driver parallel to the chassis, but it's easier to just take the top deck off. Less likely to strip the set screw too.
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Old 11-16-2012, 08:56 AM   #1540
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Best way in my opinion is to do it using the allenkey parallel to the chassis between it and the top deck, just to tighden the screw good enough to fix the pinnion.

Than unscrew motor and move it back to get access to tighten the pinion.

Lot of work, but save.

Check the length of the motor shaft, as there is not much space left towards the battery.

Mostprobably you need to cut it a little bit.

Last edited by C@T; 11-16-2012 at 08:57 AM. Reason: Not quick enough.
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Old 11-16-2012, 09:07 AM   #1541
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I managed the last pinion by using the driver through the slot in the top deck.
I had to do it at the shallowest angle possible, so the handle of the driver was just above the top deck near the front with the driver tip traveling back along the car through the top deck and into the pinion, not perfect, but OK.

Might be more difficult with different pinions.

As for the motor shaft, I actually cut one of the lipo location pieces (that was already broken) and mounted it to the chassis in place of one of the plastic nuts that are indicated in the manual.

This means the front end plastic nut is still there as a lipo limiter and the slightly longer piece of brace is at the rear. This makes the lipo stick out fractionally further at the rear (only by around 1mm) but gives plenty of clearance for the motor shaft and also by chance, helps balance my car slightly better.

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Old 11-16-2012, 09:33 AM   #1542
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So don't flip the pur around to move it closer to the motor side of the car? I was just looking fo ra bit of clearance to flip the pinion, that way I could swap them out easier without taking things apart to much.

Using the Xray offset spurs, what it the purpose of these? Seems like it just moves the pinion and spur closer to the long belt with limited clearance.
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Old 11-16-2012, 09:34 AM   #1543
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Originally Posted by nashrcracer View Post
i thought the orange was optimized for better cornering speed... let me know how much slower your car is in black....
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:22 AM   #1544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
I finished the car up last night just in time for club racing tonight. Only had one weird part.

My big concern however it the motor/pinion area. Time will tell if that mount holds up to my "erratic" driving style.

Now...that pinion is a bugger! I can't wrap my head around how they intend you to access the grub screw through the bottom hole. Not even close. I can get it from the top either. I had to take the motor off to tighten the pinion. I am going to have to stare at it for a while to figure this out.

In many of the pictures I have seen people are running their pinion with the skinny part towards the battery. This wont work for me as my motor shaft isn't long enough. The only way I could make that work is by turning rhe spur gear around and having it be closer to the short belt. That way I could slide the pinion on the shaft further and use the chasis hole I think.

Any drawbacks to this? How are others doing this?
There is nothing to stare at...it is a piss poor design. The word on the street is that I guess that design works well with Xray pinions, but that is silly. Who can afford to buy even one Xray pinion let alone a whole set.

The work around to to remove the motor and tighten up and or replace the pinion with that method. Luckily, you can get the motor out with the motor mount being so low, but seems pretty silly to not consider that other people could possibly use other types of pinions.
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:07 AM   #1545
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Originally Posted by artwork View Post
There is nothing to stare at...it is a piss poor design. The word on the street is that I guess that design works well with Xray pinions, but that is silly. Who can afford to buy even one Xray pinion let alone a whole set.

The work around to to remove the motor and tighten up and or replace the pinion with that method. Luckily, you can get the motor out with the motor mount being so low, but seems pretty silly to not consider that other people could possibly use other types of pinions.
I got hands like a bunch of bananas, I can put the pinion (not xray) on with motor on the mount and do it up no probs at all go through the top deck not the hole in the bottom.

Bb
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