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Old 08-30-2007, 01:04 AM   #376
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dstyles, you probably have solved my problems. You got a url?
http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_i...oducts_id=5768
http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_i...oducts_id=5769
http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_i...oducts_id=4719
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Old 08-30-2007, 08:27 AM   #377
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I love you. Not in that kind of way lol, but I love you. THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!
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Old 08-30-2007, 08:35 AM   #378
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I love you. Not in that kind of way lol, but I love you. THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!
If you decide to use them, please make me know how the hole system works.Im affraid that must be noisy with the aluminium gears.
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Old 08-30-2007, 09:54 AM   #379
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The way I figure it, the Pro4 diff case is sealed, so I will put a light oil inside. Shimmed properly, the noise shouldnt be that bad. Figure, the Nitro RS4 3 is shaft with metal to metal gears and when I roll my car in the house after setting it up, its quiet as a church mouse with no real noticeable audible gear grind. Lessening on the shims and playing around with it, I am confident i will achieve the same with the Pro4....then my car will be ready for action!
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Pondering moving on to Xray-have to go with a winner. If you cant beat em, join em!

I gear to run and win, not to THERMAL!
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Old 08-30-2007, 12:30 PM   #380
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The way I figure it, the Pro4 diff case is sealed, so I will put a light oil inside. Shimmed properly, the noise shouldnt be that bad. Figure, the Nitro RS4 3 is shaft with metal to metal gears and when I roll my car in the house after setting it up, its quiet as a church mouse with no real noticeable audible gear grind. Lessening on the shims and playing around with it, I am confident i will achieve the same with the Pro4....then my car will be ready for action!
I think it will be better if you use the front & rear aluminium bevel gears shafts and the plastic bevel rears on both diff or spool or oneway.
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Old 08-30-2007, 12:45 PM   #381
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I think it will be better if you use the front & rear aluminium bevel gears shafts and the plastic bevel rears on both diff or spool or oneway.
I'm going to experiment. The metal bevels are a must. With a spool, one must be careful, the extra stress has caused the screws to "come loose", with the end results being chewed up ring gears on the diff. I have aluminum outdrives (custom made) for my Pro4, so this ought to be very interesting. A few ounces more, but this weight will work well on both ends, making the car more stable IMO.
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Old 09-01-2007, 12:28 AM   #382
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Can also make carbon fiber parts, but perfer not to as it cuts up bits like there is no tomorrow.

Erik

What kind of cutters are you using? Endmills or more like a router bit? Carbide or High Speed Steel? Coated cutters can make a big difference in tool wear if the right coated is selected. In my shop we had to cut some glass reinforced plastics that would chew up a non coated carbide endmill, they'd last 25 parts tops. We switched to some diamond coated endmills and got almost over 300 parts. The diamond coating adds to the cost, but for special needs like CF cutting they can't be beat.
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Old 09-01-2007, 05:43 PM   #383
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I have heard that diamand coating is the way to go. Probelm is one end mill that would cost $5 is now $50-100. Also, small sizes are hard to come by. Have tried 1/8" carbide end mills and routers with similar results.

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Old 09-24-2007, 06:02 AM   #384
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Default Tamiya EVO IV. Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft - $15 plus shipping

I found one last drive shaft remaining for the Tamiya EVO IV: $15 plus shipping. Once it is gone, thats it. Thanks again to all that supported us an enjoyed this product over that last 1.5 years.


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Old 09-24-2007, 06:20 AM   #385
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is there carbon fiber shaft for my TB Evo III ??? please PM me. thx.
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Old 09-24-2007, 10:38 AM   #386
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Sorry, no shaft for the EV0 3 as a direct replacement. The tips on the EV0 do not lend themselves to a carbon center. The shaft needs to "float" between the front and rear with some gap so that if the car is involved in a hard crash, the drive shaft doesn't splinter.

I do beleive a few EV0 4 parts can be added to the EVO 3 to allow the carbon shaft. I can't say which ones as I did not own an EV03 (last one i had was an EV0 2).

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Old 01-20-2009, 04:07 PM   #387
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There has been a recent interest in the carbon Fiber drive shafts again (Vintage RC / TRANSAM racing perhaps). If interests is strong enough, I might make a few more. PM if interested.

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Old 01-20-2009, 11:25 PM   #388
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Good thing this thread popped up. I'll be contacting you soon.
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Old 01-29-2009, 05:53 AM   #389
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I had requests for a few more, so I ordered up additional carbon fiber to make a few more drive shafts (12 more to be exact). I can make them a for TC3, TC4, HPI Pro4, Yokomo SD, Tamiya EVO 4 and EV0 5 as well as Tamiya TT01, TB02 and TB03 cars. Costs will be as follows (all included shipping in USA):

$30 -Retro fit an exisitng drive shaft (requires a new or used donor)

$38* -Create a new drive shaft (I purchase a new donor)

*Note, currently the HPI PRO4 aluminum drive shafts are not available so I can only do retrofits at this time. I assume similar part availability for the Tamiya and Yokomo cars as well.

Due to lower demand these days, I will treat each part as a custom order with money due up front before I make the actual part. PM or email me for details.
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Old 03-26-2009, 07:40 AM   #390
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Currently in the process of making a drive shaft for a NTC3 which was converted to run brushless and lipo. I was told the car will be used for 100mph + runs. Hopefully will get some feedback on the shaft durability at those extreme speeds soon. The CF shaft was requested as the stock aluminum piece was going into resonance at those speeds and actually bending.
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