Spec-R R1
#3436
Tech Rookie
I'm thinking about getting a Spec-r S2, what parts numbers are needed to put sway bars on?
can it fit a 40t+ pinion with stock spur?
this seems like a active thread...
can it fit a 40t+ pinion with stock spur?
this seems like a active thread...
#3437
Tech Adept
iTrader: (10)
Stock spur is 84t 48p. Total tooth range on S2 (spur+pinion) is about 133 to 148 (64p) and 100 to 111 (48p). Biggest 48p pinion with the 84t spur would therefore be about 111-84=27t.
If you go to a 64p pinion about 88 to 94 teeth, you can get some good ratios. I am current running 88/58 on my USGT car and 88/53 on my VTA car (all 64p). The 58t pinion just baaaaaaaaaaarely fits so I wouldn't go beyond 56t if I had to do it again.
For sway bars, S2 comes with all the plastic hardware, so you just need the metal bits:
SPR-R1A101
SPR-R1A123
SPR-R1B801
SPR-R1H716
If you go to a 64p pinion about 88 to 94 teeth, you can get some good ratios. I am current running 88/58 on my USGT car and 88/53 on my VTA car (all 64p). The 58t pinion just baaaaaaaaaaarely fits so I wouldn't go beyond 56t if I had to do it again.
For sway bars, S2 comes with all the plastic hardware, so you just need the metal bits:
SPR-R1A101
SPR-R1A123
SPR-R1B801
SPR-R1H716
#3438
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
don't forget a set of ballstuds, ballcups and m3x3 setscrews. kit only comes with the anti rollbar endlinks and plastic mounts.
need rollbar set, rod stoppers plus above.
I might also suggest a wider rear sway bar from an xray or serpent or somthing. tamiya rollbars might be a better option but the kit comes with some odd size ball cups.
need rollbar set, rod stoppers plus above.
I might also suggest a wider rear sway bar from an xray or serpent or somthing. tamiya rollbars might be a better option but the kit comes with some odd size ball cups.
#3439
Tech Rookie
I was really wanting to stay with 48p gears, but the lowest fdr looks to be 5.36 with 79/28?? according to the manual. I was wanting something like 4.00 to 3.80.
looking at all those parts in the shopping car... I can't quite make sense of how it goes together? the car comes with the extra 4 screws and plastic bits to hold the thing in place? and then the o=o kind of thing? I tried looking though parts stores and never seen them :/
... well looking at the R1 kit its just 1 plastic piece per end that connects the 2 bulk heads, with flat screws... this kit comes with the rear body posts right? not even in the brand's website pics
Back to the cart, well you put the set screws in the hole for the stoppers... do the ball studs also fit in the same hole that the sway bar goes in?
What sway bars go where? I only need one set right? was it firmer in the front or other way around?
1 rollbar set of 5
1 set screw bag of 10
2 rod stopper 5pcs as I need total of 6 according to R1 pictures.
1 ball studs of 5 only need 4 for each sway bar end.
edit:
it seems I need spr-r1p308 or is that part of the plastics that come with it?
SPR-R1P306
SPR-R1A101
SPR-R1P310
... if you have spr-R1P308 why would you need stoppers next to em, when the plastic bits have them already?
looking at all those parts in the shopping car... I can't quite make sense of how it goes together? the car comes with the extra 4 screws and plastic bits to hold the thing in place? and then the o=o kind of thing? I tried looking though parts stores and never seen them :/
... well looking at the R1 kit its just 1 plastic piece per end that connects the 2 bulk heads, with flat screws... this kit comes with the rear body posts right? not even in the brand's website pics
Back to the cart, well you put the set screws in the hole for the stoppers... do the ball studs also fit in the same hole that the sway bar goes in?
What sway bars go where? I only need one set right? was it firmer in the front or other way around?
1 rollbar set of 5
1 set screw bag of 10
2 rod stopper 5pcs as I need total of 6 according to R1 pictures.
1 ball studs of 5 only need 4 for each sway bar end.
edit:
it seems I need spr-r1p308 or is that part of the plastics that come with it?
SPR-R1P306
SPR-R1A101
SPR-R1P310
... if you have spr-R1P308 why would you need stoppers next to em, when the plastic bits have them already?
Last edited by Higgins909; 11-30-2014 at 10:48 PM.
#3440
Tech Regular
As for sway bars, I can't really offer any advice. I've just added a sway bar to mine but for the life of me I can't get it to function properly.
#3441
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
i dont remember all the pns but the rod stoppers come on their own. not with the kit or in the swaybar kit. you get all the bars in one, and the other parts are seperate.
the mount is has a groove in it for the rodstopper, thus you need it or the bar will move side to side. there is a bit of an art of patience to get the bars to work properly for sure. you can get them working with a stiffer bar on the stock locations, or use more outboard locations. in the case of the front, i was able to use a new ballstud on position a with the 1.4 bar and it works quite well. not absolutely perfect but better than the stock location.
in the rear, you might need a wider bar than factory. im using a new ballstud on position C with a serpent 1.2mm.
this is why i suggest maybe getting the tamiya arbs as you get all the front bars and all the rear bars. so its a decent deal i guess.
honestly, if you look at enough setup sheets though, most people are runnign 1.4 in the front, 1.2 in the back.
so you could get one good 1.2 for the back and never have to worry about it.
you could prob run the b possition in the front even, but traditionally, arb links should be as vertical as possible. my front links are quite angled to use the wider mount.. but on the stand, the arms lift at the same time. never was able to get that with stock location without going to a 1.5 or somthing.
the mount is has a groove in it for the rodstopper, thus you need it or the bar will move side to side. there is a bit of an art of patience to get the bars to work properly for sure. you can get them working with a stiffer bar on the stock locations, or use more outboard locations. in the case of the front, i was able to use a new ballstud on position a with the 1.4 bar and it works quite well. not absolutely perfect but better than the stock location.
in the rear, you might need a wider bar than factory. im using a new ballstud on position C with a serpent 1.2mm.
this is why i suggest maybe getting the tamiya arbs as you get all the front bars and all the rear bars. so its a decent deal i guess.
honestly, if you look at enough setup sheets though, most people are runnign 1.4 in the front, 1.2 in the back.
so you could get one good 1.2 for the back and never have to worry about it.
you could prob run the b possition in the front even, but traditionally, arb links should be as vertical as possible. my front links are quite angled to use the wider mount.. but on the stand, the arms lift at the same time. never was able to get that with stock location without going to a 1.5 or somthing.
#3442
Tech Rookie
not sure about aluminum, guess I'll find out the pitch also looks weird in the pic but it says its 48p?
Now I'm having a fun time trying to pick out a spur gear, that will work with the 4 holes
spec-r seems to make 84t and up in spurs, but I need lower...
there is Kawads spurs, but the hole thing might not work, then 3 racing... still not sure if they will line up :/ I never knew picking a spur could be soo hard :/
thinking of going 30pin 62spur, but then I worry about how much room I have for changing say pinion.
#3443
Tech Adept
iTrader: (10)
Look at the R1 manual if you are not sure how it goes together.
http://www.spec-r.com/default/pdf/R1...n%20Manual.pdf
I think I did forget the ball cups and M3x10 screws from my list. I had some extras and used those.
SPR-R1P310 and SPR-R1P308 come with the S2 so do not buy them.
So the correct list to buy would be 1 each:
SPR-R1A101
SPR-R1A123
SPR-R1B801
SPR-R1H716
SPR-R1P306
Plus 4x M3x10 flathead screws.
If you search the thread you will find a lot of spur fitment info but Kimbrough 64p have all fit nicely for me.
http://www.spec-r.com/default/pdf/R1...n%20Manual.pdf
I think I did forget the ball cups and M3x10 screws from my list. I had some extras and used those.
SPR-R1P310 and SPR-R1P308 come with the S2 so do not buy them.
So the correct list to buy would be 1 each:
SPR-R1A101
SPR-R1A123
SPR-R1B801
SPR-R1H716
SPR-R1P306
Plus 4x M3x10 flathead screws.
If you search the thread you will find a lot of spur fitment info but Kimbrough 64p have all fit nicely for me.
Last edited by funked1; 12-01-2014 at 12:02 AM.
#3444
I have used Kimborough spurs both 48p and 64p in my s1 and r1. I've also used the white 3Racing ones and I think Robinson racing?? I'm not 100% if that was the brand or not, but I've use a third brand.
I think I'm using a 94t 64p in one car and either a 69t or 72t 48p in the others. I'm generally running gear ratios from 3.75-4.5 FDR, depending on the car.
I think I'm using a 94t 64p in one car and either a 69t or 72t 48p in the others. I'm generally running gear ratios from 3.75-4.5 FDR, depending on the car.
#3445
Tech Regular
I've used both kawads and 3 racing spurs in my s1. 65t and smaller require you to remove a little bit of plastic from the lip around the side of the spur so it doesn't foul.
Ryan
Ryan
#3446
gearing
just picked up a Novak Boss 25.5 for VTA class....how should I gear the R1?
88/53 for 3.15 ?
88/53 for 3.15 ?
#3447
Tech Addict
Make sure you have proper adjustability with your spur/pinion combo. I use a 96t spur. Allows me to install pinions from 44t to 51t.
#3448
I like to run the topdeck on my s1 with only 1 screw each side on the rear , today the rear side of my battery managed to slide under the topdeck far enough where it caused the belt to rub and flip over on the spur gear, yea, the teeth on the belt were upside down as it sat on the spur gear, any suggestions to how I can keep the battery from moving , no adjustment screw for the rear like the one on the servo mount.
#3449
Tech Addict
#3450