Spec-R R1
11-17-2013, 11:51 PM
#2071
I will show you on Friday Roger. It does chatter a bit but I think you are right that it is mainly the front spool that is the cause.
11-17-2013, 11:55 PM
#2072
I ran 2 S1's one with and one without sway bars on the same tracks as MrJudd and on the low grip asphalt tracks i preferred without, and now with 2 pro specs, setup one with and one without sway bars, i honestly cannot tell the difference.
The one with is 10.5 Spec on Foams, and the one without is a 7.5 boosted in mod on rubber and TBH they both feel the same to me. But that might just be the tires making all the difference.
As for the Dcj's, I have not seen any need for them on either car, as there is no chatter even with 35 Deg of steering throw either way. And what MrJudd is seeing as chatter is outer wheel hop from using a spool and not keeping the power up in corners.
The one with is 10.5 Spec on Foams, and the one without is a 7.5 boosted in mod on rubber and TBH they both feel the same to me. But that might just be the tires making all the difference.
As for the Dcj's, I have not seen any need for them on either car, as there is no chatter even with 35 Deg of steering throw either way. And what MrJudd is seeing as chatter is outer wheel hop from using a spool and not keeping the power up in corners.
I've ran a front gear diff with various wt oils and even putty, for me with my current setup and drive style the front spool and dcj's are fastest and most consistent. Everyone drives differently and there is no one answer.
I've ran foam tires a few years ago so I know how different they are from rubber and comparing those two is apples to oranges. Our track is quite high traction asphalt and without the sway bars I was consistently over .5 slower. I agree if it's low traction I would not run them but if I were running carpet without a doubt I would use them.
11-18-2013, 10:51 AM
#2073
Looking for a good starting setup for mod asphalt. Either posted here or a link to a sheet online possibly. Trying to get the car to be very stable and smooth, not twitchy. I don't get much time to practice (none of the tracks near me are open except for the occasional race day). would like to get everything in the ball park at least. R1 (not the pro-spec).
Is the optional chassis (more flex) a worth-while investment) ?
Is the optional chassis (more flex) a worth-while investment) ?
11-18-2013, 04:20 PM
#2074
Looking for a good starting setup for mod asphalt. Either posted here or a link to a sheet online possibly. Trying to get the car to be very stable and smooth, not twitchy. I don't get much time to practice (none of the tracks near me are open except for the occasional race day). would like to get everything in the ball park at least. R1 (not the pro-spec).
Is the optional chassis (more flex) a worth-while investment) ?
Is the optional chassis (more flex) a worth-while investment) ?
The option chassis, is it worth it, well it depends on what your setup is lacking and whether what it gives you is an improvement on that.
I know these are not the answers you were looking for, but the reality is, the setup window on these cars are really wide and tire choice makes more difference in how the car behaves than most fine tuning of setup.
TBH, for me, the main setup decisions i make are Tires and Droop, it is all about getting the front to rear weight transfer and balance right, and the rest of it is there or there about's. As long as i have enough turn in, the rest is about eliminating on power under and over steer and for that Droop is everything. Just an 8th of a turn on the front down stops can make the car go from an understeery pig to a pleasure to drive.
11-18-2013, 05:04 PM
#2076
Box stock setup is about as neutral and balanced as you can get. Start there and tweak the couple of things that you find you lacking in the car or want for your driving style.
The option chassis, is it worth it, well it depends on what your setup is lacking and whether what it gives you is an improvement on that.
I know these are not the answers you were looking for, but the reality is, the setup window on these cars are really wide and tire choice makes more difference in how the car behaves than most fine tuning of setup.
TBH, for me, the main setup decisions i make are Tires and Droop, it is all about getting the front to rear weight transfer and balance right, and the rest of it is there or there about's. As long as i have enough turn in, the rest is about eliminating on power under and over steer and for that Droop is everything. Just an 8th of a turn on the front down stops can make the car go from an understeery pig to a pleasure to drive.
The option chassis, is it worth it, well it depends on what your setup is lacking and whether what it gives you is an improvement on that.
I know these are not the answers you were looking for, but the reality is, the setup window on these cars are really wide and tire choice makes more difference in how the car behaves than most fine tuning of setup.
TBH, for me, the main setup decisions i make are Tires and Droop, it is all about getting the front to rear weight transfer and balance right, and the rest of it is there or there about's. As long as i have enough turn in, the rest is about eliminating on power under and over steer and for that Droop is everything. Just an 8th of a turn on the front down stops can make the car go from an understeery pig to a pleasure to drive.
Agreed on tweeking with droop. It's on the setup options I've had good luck with. I'm far from an expert on link lengths / angles, I try to avoid messing with that too much, and stick to things like droop adjustments that I know will work exactly how I want it to.
Would you have a recommendation on springs / oil / pistons ? I will see how "box stock" goes at first, of course.
11-18-2013, 07:13 PM
#2077
Actually, that is a pretty good answer in all... I have been using it for VTA and will have to revert it to a TC type setup anyways, so I'll just rebuild it per the manual.
Agreed on tweeking with droop. It's on the setup options I've had good luck with. I'm far from an expert on link lengths / angles, I try to avoid messing with that too much, and stick to things like droop adjustments that I know will work exactly how I want it to.
Would you have a recommendation on springs / oil / pistons ? I will see how "box stock" goes at first, of course.
Agreed on tweeking with droop. It's on the setup options I've had good luck with. I'm far from an expert on link lengths / angles, I try to avoid messing with that too much, and stick to things like droop adjustments that I know will work exactly how I want it to.
Would you have a recommendation on springs / oil / pistons ? I will see how "box stock" goes at first, of course.
11-19-2013, 09:46 PM
#2078
Pulled my car apart last night and gave it a thorough clean. Did the wheel bearings, and the pinion and drive bearings. oiled the cvds. Less chatter now. Can't wait to race on Friday with it.
11-20-2013, 12:05 AM
#2080
HEH outer hinge pins are what i seem to break on my mod car when i crash it. I have been playing 12th scale a bit lately and really getting into it. Now to clean my bearings and prep the car for Fri night racing.
11-21-2013, 12:36 AM
#2081
Yet to experience the busted hinge pin. I have experienced plenty of other broken bits though. Not on this car, HPI seemed to be made of glass by comparison or maybe I am just getting better at driving.
11-24-2013, 02:00 AM
#2083
Picked up a 3rd on Friday night in the first B final. Steering was a little unpredictable as the right hand c-hub kept getting loose at the to ball joint. Still managed a PB on the track (18.8) and PB laps (14) still improving. Great night. Finals were a bit crowded as we had 11 drivers on track, it was crowded and ran very smoothly which was a surprise.
Last edited by mrjudd77; 11-24-2013 at 02:09 PM.
11-24-2013, 07:04 PM
#2084
Tech Apprentice
my Spec-r S1 experience
I just bought a spec-r S1 and thought I would share my experience too.
My goal was to put together the best low cost racing package I could while being able to challenge the higher end xray's and tamiya's.
I am an experienced racer in other scales of indoor and outdoor racing, but this is my first venture into 1/10 TC.
I ran a S1 with the setup right from the manual.
I was very picky putting it together to make sure all pieces were put together properly.
I added the following upgrades:
- Aluminum center servo holder
- aluminum steering rack
- sway bar kit from the R1 using the 1.4 front, 1.2 rear (as per the R1 manual)
- 3Racing ssk (double cvd) drives for the front.
- Geared 64 pitch - kimborough 96 tooth spur, 43 tooth pinion for a FDR of 4.24
Others:
- Sweep spec Green rubber tires
- Mazda 6 'protoform' style body from rcMart
- Turnigy nano-tec 6.6mah lipo
- turnigy 17.5 brushless
- hobbyking 120A brushless ESC (hobbywing clone)
- bluebird servo from hobbyking
- orange RX spektrum dsm2
(lots of spare parts like arms and c-blocks from tqrcracing.com as well)
Complete cost under $450
Race Review:
I raced it for the first time in a club 17.5 blinky race.
I had only run the car enough before this race night to make sure the steering trim was straight and then 5 minutes of running.
Having never raced this car before, I put full compound(niftec) rear and the inside 1/2 compound front.
The car is very neutral, so with a 1/2 compound front it had a managable on power push. Enough push that it was noticed by some other racers watching.
Throughout my heat races I added more and more compound on the front until I was running full compound front and rear. The car still has a very mild on power push(understeer) but is very drivable. The rear of the car never once felt loose or tried to come around the whole race night.
I had a collision with another car on the straight, where the other car had come to a dead stop after hitting the boards. I ran into the car at about 25-30mph. Nothing broke on my car BUT I think the ball cup moved down the tie rod. It now has a few degrees of toe out which seems to give the car a bit more steering so I left this new found 'adjustment'.
Results:
TQ and 1st in my 'spec stock' 17.5 class.
Looking at the board the lap count would have been good enough for 2nd place in the next level 'pro-stock' 17.5 class. It would not have been fast enough to challenge the winner of that class as it was a couple laps off the pace.
Conclusion:
For me this car worked perfectly its first race. The setup from the manual is very drivable and will tend to understeer which is easy to drive for beginners to 1/10 touring car. The best part, the other racers could not believe an $85 dollar car on its first outing with a box stock setup could work so well. I'm very impressed with the drivability of this car.
My goal was to put together the best low cost racing package I could while being able to challenge the higher end xray's and tamiya's.
I am an experienced racer in other scales of indoor and outdoor racing, but this is my first venture into 1/10 TC.
I ran a S1 with the setup right from the manual.
I was very picky putting it together to make sure all pieces were put together properly.
I added the following upgrades:
- Aluminum center servo holder
- aluminum steering rack
- sway bar kit from the R1 using the 1.4 front, 1.2 rear (as per the R1 manual)
- 3Racing ssk (double cvd) drives for the front.
- Geared 64 pitch - kimborough 96 tooth spur, 43 tooth pinion for a FDR of 4.24
Others:
- Sweep spec Green rubber tires
- Mazda 6 'protoform' style body from rcMart
- Turnigy nano-tec 6.6mah lipo
- turnigy 17.5 brushless
- hobbyking 120A brushless ESC (hobbywing clone)
- bluebird servo from hobbyking
- orange RX spektrum dsm2
(lots of spare parts like arms and c-blocks from tqrcracing.com as well)
Complete cost under $450
Race Review:
I raced it for the first time in a club 17.5 blinky race.
I had only run the car enough before this race night to make sure the steering trim was straight and then 5 minutes of running.
Having never raced this car before, I put full compound(niftec) rear and the inside 1/2 compound front.
The car is very neutral, so with a 1/2 compound front it had a managable on power push. Enough push that it was noticed by some other racers watching.
Throughout my heat races I added more and more compound on the front until I was running full compound front and rear. The car still has a very mild on power push(understeer) but is very drivable. The rear of the car never once felt loose or tried to come around the whole race night.
I had a collision with another car on the straight, where the other car had come to a dead stop after hitting the boards. I ran into the car at about 25-30mph. Nothing broke on my car BUT I think the ball cup moved down the tie rod. It now has a few degrees of toe out which seems to give the car a bit more steering so I left this new found 'adjustment'.
Results:
TQ and 1st in my 'spec stock' 17.5 class.
Looking at the board the lap count would have been good enough for 2nd place in the next level 'pro-stock' 17.5 class. It would not have been fast enough to challenge the winner of that class as it was a couple laps off the pace.
Conclusion:
For me this car worked perfectly its first race. The setup from the manual is very drivable and will tend to understeer which is easy to drive for beginners to 1/10 touring car. The best part, the other racers could not believe an $85 dollar car on its first outing with a box stock setup could work so well. I'm very impressed with the drivability of this car.
