SteveM

iTrader: (165)

I had a shock cap split and maybe you're having a similar issue.

I've bought the flanged bearings but haven't used them yet.

I have forward/backeard slop on one front suspension arm more than any other that I cannot explain. I've swaped arms and reset the hinge pin carriers, but still have the same issue.

Luke Hobson

The slop in the arms is where the 0.1/0.2/0.3mm shims come in great like I've reccomened in the past.

I tighten all the blocks up, see how much play there is, then full with shims until there is almost none (literally 0.1 play) just enough for it to drop under its own weight and be free, and if its slightly stiff still, with the damper off, give both the front and the back of the arm a few taps with the handle of your 2.0 driver, that'll free it up.

An easy fool proof method to getting the arms right

reichsmarshal24

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys, I'm about to get an S1 for our local 17.5 blinky club here in Manila.
What's a good baseline FDR for asphalt. And what spur/pinion combo should I use for it?

jeff jenkins

iTrader: (84)

Just a heads up the tamiya steel gear set for there gear diff does not work for the r1.

trickd122

iTrader: (3)

For most motors 4.0FDR is a good baseline. Keep temps 160 degrees or lower to be safe, and running a fan will allow you to gear lower. Remember bigger track smaller FDR smaller track bigger fdr

jeff jenkins

iTrader: (84)

well just got home from a club race and tried all kinds of different things on the car and have come up with my best setup yet . i ended up with a much more consistent easy to drive fast car that i could point and shoot with. very happy with the performance from my main event race . I will have the setup posted hopefully after i wake up later. but a hint is 1.5mm sway bar up front and 1.1mm in the rear. yokom pink and blue springs. 1mm higher roll center on lower arm mounts in the front with 1deg of anti dive. front arms all the way back. 3mm front uptravel and 4mm rear uptravel. holy sheet is it good! i will have a link posted later for a pdf setup sheet for everything i ran.

HK416

iTrader: (1)

Ok, using the white spur Bush now but you need to file the bushes a bit if not it will bind the bearings a bit otherwise it's all good now.

jeff jenkins

iTrader: (84)

Link to my setup. http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/spec...le20130112.pdf

SpecRC

-.-

Fuzzi0n

By any chance are you using Firefox? If so, go Options>Applications and change .pdf files to open with acrobat/reader rather than previewing in the browser.

Otherwise just right click, save as then open with adobe reader or whatever application you use to view .pdf files and it'll work fine.

reichsmarshal24

iTrader: (6)

Will Kawada spur gears fit with the Spec R S1 adaptors? If not, what 64p brands do you guys use?
http://www.rcmart.com/kawada-s6496t-...Path=1293_1308

Thanks.

toast.

iTrader: (14)

ive heard good things about Kimbrough spurs

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=1366

spencehotbodies

Hello guys
Just an up date on the car after a couple of outings. Was at my local club yesterday ( Wlrc ), a small turn out which was a shame, but it was very cold. I have been running lukes indoor set up with only change being Hpi silver springs fitted front and back. All can say is the car was so good in low temp conditions. I was running an old set of sorex 28s.

The next thing I will be trying is a set of t-shocks, should have them fitted before I race again.

k4mp4q

Hi Guys...

I'm finally pull the triger on purchasing this car...

Anyway i'll be using it for this coming TITC Race on february...
I'll be going to play 13.5 open brushless...

So any of you guys have a good setup for the start on this layout...

Thanks

handiman

iTrader: (11)

The Kawada gears fit fine.