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Old 05-13-2013, 08:12 PM   #1471
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Well, i played around with the car today and i tried some standard TC offset wheels and the car seemed to have much better corner speed. I believe +6 hexes were scrubbing the corner speed.
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Old 05-14-2013, 03:28 AM   #1472
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I have a brand new one still packed. Selling for £20.
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:53 PM   #1473
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Default Spur Gear 0.5mm Pastic Shim

Hi guys, I just got my Spec R R1 last week and are halfway through the build in fact im at steps 15 now - the front and rear swing arm. I have a question here…

the plastic 0.5mm shim at the spur gear assembly area when installing the spur gear into the chassis drive train is really flimsy. I broke one of them and I replace it with Yokomo 0.5mm metal shim but I notice there are a fair bit of play from side to side. Finally I put in a 1mm spacer on each side and that solve the problem. Have anyone here replace it with a 1mm spacer and will there be any problem?

I know that Specs R are selling after market longer Bushing that will eliminate the use of the 0.5mm plastic shim but online shopping don’t ship to my place without a paypal account. Is that after market bushing really necessary or a normal spacer will do the job? 1mm or 0.5mm on each side?

Sorry for the long post and pardon my English. My 2nd language 
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:04 PM   #1474
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Believe it or not, I'm using the tamiya trf417 rear hubs and ront c hubs, works perfectly fine and a bit more durable.
did you stay with R1 arms
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:32 PM   #1475
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did you stay with R1 arms
Yea, seems like a perfect fit, broke both about a month ago while at the track and didn't have any spares, after going to speak with the owner of the shop, he gave me a set of tamiya trf 417 and we eye balled it and seemed to fit, tried it out and exact match, you will just have to reset your camber, but that's about it. Plus almost every hobby shop carries those parts so no more waiting for parts to be shipped. Pretty sure some other parts fit, but just have tried it out yet.
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Old 05-16-2013, 03:08 AM   #1476
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Spec r r1 for sale £130 not inc postage . Lots of hop ups fitted, 2.2 mm chassis fitted 4 meets old, pm for details and pictures

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Old 05-16-2013, 04:39 AM   #1477
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Guys need some advice... the thingy u install on the upper deck of Spec R R1 that guides the rubber track is it a must? It dont look like a tensioner to me. Will the rubber track ran side way and saw it off in actual run? Im still halfway through my build. Any advice will be very much appreciated. Thanks
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Old 05-16-2013, 04:55 AM   #1478
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I don't use that tensioner/guide on my cars.
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Old 05-16-2013, 05:45 AM   #1479
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Originally Posted by stonely0 View Post
Guys need some advice... the thingy u install on the upper deck of Spec R R1 that guides the rubber track is it a must? It dont look like a tensioner to me. Will the rubber track ran side way and saw it off in actual run? Im still halfway through my build. Any advice will be very much appreciated. Thanks

The long belt is too tight to start with and takes a few good runs to get it to loosen up a bit to where you want it. By the time the belt gets to the point of needing the tensioner it is probably a good time for a new belt anyway.

The tensioner itself is 2 bearings, they roll when the belt travels over it, it sits ontop of the flat side of the belt and pushes down on it, if things are aligned properly there is no way for the flange bearings to cut the belt at all. And even if not aligned i cannot see there being enough force to cut the belt.
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Old 05-16-2013, 06:21 AM   #1480
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Originally Posted by stonely0 View Post
Guys need some advice... the thingy u install on the upper deck of Spec R R1 that guides the rubber track is it a must? It dont look like a tensioner to me. Will the rubber track ran side way and saw it off in actual run? Im still halfway through my build. Any advice will be very much appreciated. Thanks
If you are running spec classes there is no need to run it.

If you are running Mod on a track with a straight that allows the motor to wind out you will want to run it. Not as a belt tensioner but to stop unwanted belt flap/oscillation at high speed. For this purpose set it so it is barely touching the belt. It will only really touch if the belt starts to vibrate.
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:58 AM   #1481
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If you are running spec classes there is no need to run it.

If you are running Mod on a track with a straight that allows the motor to wind out you will want to run it. Not as a belt tensioner but to stop unwanted belt flap/oscillation at high speed. For this purpose set it so it is barely touching the belt. It will only really touch if the belt starts to vibrate.
Thanks for the great info guys... my first time building an electric TC car. Been a nitro offroad guy all the while. My greatest challenge is to solder the motor to the ESC which i have ZERO experience at all. I had a soldering rod that allows me to select the temperature which i have no idea... starting from 250 Degree Celsius up to 400... which is the recommended temperature?

Next i will have to figure out how ESC works... and Gosh!!! EP uses only 1 servo, amazing!!! i did not notice any hardware brake... all braking control by ESC? how about Fail Safe? will the car just ran off on its own like what nitro did to me sometime?

Also do i need a ESC fan? my ESC dont come with a fan or program card. Finally, will a 3M thin spongy double side tape be good enough for RX and ESC?

Sorry for the long post
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:42 PM   #1482
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Have anyone tried this before , lowering the shock mount and using shorter absorbers? I've tried it on a medium/low traction track with LRP Additives with RIDE preglued tyres that we use for our local races here and the car behaves much better in mid corner and out of corner plus you can on throttle on long corners. I would like to try Spec R ECS to smoothen up the steerings.
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:59 PM   #1483
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That may be the result of leaning your rear shocks over that much. It makes the car smoother
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:43 PM   #1484
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That may be the result of leaning your rear shocks over that much. It makes the car smoother
Hi, you notice that I've cut/modified my shock tower and using one screw only and I'm using Sakura's shocks which is 8mm shorter.
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Old 05-17-2013, 01:52 AM   #1485
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Well I got a few things done to my R1 I'd like to share . The front steering blocks are a little weak so I swapped them out for Xray t2 hubs and they fit perfectly.I also wanted to show you guys that like hop ups a little something I picked up from amain for super cheap . The R1 uses 3mm by 46mm inner hinge pins and it just so happens that amain had Hpi hellfire titanium nitride 3x45mm pins on sale. I got 4 for a little over 10 bucks, they fit awesome and are super smooth heres a pic of my R1 and the hinge pins.
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