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Old 04-18-2013, 02:00 PM   #1366
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if you crash alot and the steering keeps changing, use a servo saver, i use a xray servosaver just to be on the safe side

would like to know if there are any other caster blocks that fit, havent had a problem with the std ones but they are really soft, would like to have a stiffer one
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Old 04-18-2013, 02:17 PM   #1367
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I run 2 degrees per side rear toe in VTA


I have been told Xray castor blocks fit, that's what I have as my spares
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:48 AM   #1368
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Very nice weekend at my Club over the 3rd Open Onroad Championship 2013 ... i made 2nd Spot on 8.5 Class qualifiers (Speed Passion Reventon PRO + V3 8.5R motor and SpecR R1 Chassis), and then won the A-Mains ... Nitro GT, won too ... very happy and with my best ever track buddy, my 5 years old son ... :

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Old 04-22-2013, 07:54 AM   #1369
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My club held the last indoor carpet race of the 2012/13 winter yesterday and I ran my S1 sedan in the 17.5 blinky class again. I took TQ honors by a lap and I also won the the A-main again by a lap. I'm using a Savox 1251MG steering servo with Tamiya servo saver, Hobbywing Justock ESC, Losi MRX3000 receiver and an LRP X12 motor with Sorex 28R tires. It's such fun beating the expensive high-end sedans with a plastic and fiberglass car.

I like this chassis so much I now have a second one setup to run in VTA class with another Savox 1251MG steering servo, Hobbywing Justock ESC, Hobbyking GR300 receiver and a Turnigy 21.5 motor.

My battery packs are all Hobbyking Zippy Flightmax 4000 2S packs rated at 25C. These $14 packs have proved to be incredibly good in blinky class.
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:25 AM   #1370
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are you using the red flightmax 4000 packs?

always nice to see and read about people winning with cheap stuff, takes away alot of the talks about the classes being all down to who has the best and latest stuff in their cars
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:31 AM   #1371
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bappe View Post
are you using the red flightmax 4000 packs?

always nice to see and read about people winning with cheap stuff, takes away alot of the talks about the classes being all down to who has the best and latest stuff in their cars
Yes...the red Flightmax 4000 el-cheap-o packs. I always balance charge at 1C and these packs have been outstanding value for me.
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Old 04-22-2013, 11:04 AM   #1372
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Im racing with Hobbyking nanothech cheap lipo packs for almost 2 years, usually buy 4 packs per year about USD$ 35 per each one, last full year hard racing and practices ... and makes podium !
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Old 04-22-2013, 11:20 AM   #1373
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I helped metalnut with his car a bit on Saturday. Here's some random brain-dumpage:

The car had a nasty pull, that seemed to change when he hit stuff. I'm not sure if we got that totally figured out, but part of the pull was coming from a left/right weight imbalance. I think the left side was something like 20g heavy.

There's not a lot of space to add weight on this car in the front. We slipped one weight under the steering, but that's pretty close to center, so it didn't do much for the left/right balance.

The weight distribution of this car is pretty far back. With the rear wheelbase around the middle (maybe 2-3mm in front of the arm, 2mm behind), and the front set full short, the car was still something like 20g heavier on each of the rear wheels. Might have even been more. He's running a pretty small spur, though, and it looked like the motor was almost as far back as it could go. Running larger gears to move the motor forward would help some.

Reflex springs don't fit great, at least for HPI X-Patterns, and probably VTA tires, too. The spring adjuster is right at the top of the adjustment range at 5mm ride height.

Watch out for binding on the arms. I suspect a binding rear arm may have been contributing to the pulling strangeness. I hit the arm with an emory board a bit, which improved it, but it still needs some more work to free it up completely.

Lots of slop in the steering rack. I'm not sure how much of it is from the steering components themselves, and how much is from the bearings.

Holy crap are the droop screws tight!

Does anyone ever run the top deck screws that go into the layshaft bulkhead? Are you supposed to put 1mm shims under the topdeck for those?

-Mike
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Old 04-22-2013, 11:21 AM   #1374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveM View Post
My club held the last indoor carpet race of the 2012/13 winter yesterday and I ran my S1 sedan in the 17.5 blinky class again. I took TQ honors by a lap and I also won the the A-main again by a lap. I'm using a Savox 1251MG steering servo with Tamiya servo saver, Hobbywing Justock ESC, Losi MRX3000 receiver and an LRP X12 motor with Sorex 28R tires. It's such fun beating the expensive high-end sedans with a plastic and fiberglass car.

I like this chassis so much I now have a second one setup to run in VTA class with another Savox 1251MG steering servo, Hobbywing Justock ESC, Hobbyking GR300 receiver and a Turnigy 21.5 motor.

My battery packs are all Hobbyking Zippy Flightmax 4000 2S packs rated at 25C. These $14 packs have proved to be incredibly good in blinky class.
Hi Steve,
Are you running the car box stock? I'm interested in this car since it's a cheap way to get into on-road racing. Thanks.
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Old 04-22-2013, 11:33 AM   #1375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eddiemoney13 View Post
Hi Steve,
Are you running the car box stock? I'm interested in this car since it's a cheap way to get into on-road racing. Thanks.
I actually have two S1 sedans.

One I run in my club's 17.5 blinky class that has the following upgrades;

- Spec-R articulated CVD's
- red alloy floating steering servo mount ( I wanted to try this new trend in steering servo mounts)
- red alloy lay shaft bulkheads (I wanted to ensure the motor to spur area was sturdy)
- red alloy motor fan mount (pure eye candy)
- sway bars that I borrowed from my Sakura Zero S chassis.

These are my only upgrades. The rest, including shock oil, diff fluid, bearings, shock springs, etc...is box stock.

The second S1 is 100% box stock and I plan to use this one for Canadian VTA events with a 21.5 motor and the HPI tires and rims.
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Old 04-22-2013, 03:42 PM   #1376
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I helped metalnut with his car a bit on Saturday. Here's some random brain-dumpage:

The car had a nasty pull, that seemed to change when he hit stuff. I'm not sure if we got that totally figured out, but part of the pull was coming from a left/right weight imbalance. I think the left side was something like 20g heavy.

There's not a lot of space to add weight on this car in the front. We slipped one weight under the steering, but that's pretty close to center, so it didn't do much for the left/right balance.

The weight distribution of this car is pretty far back. With the rear wheelbase around the middle (maybe 2-3mm in front of the arm, 2mm behind), and the front set full short, the car was still something like 20g heavier on each of the rear wheels. Might have even been more. He's running a pretty small spur, though, and it looked like the motor was almost as far back as it could go. Running larger gears to move the motor forward would help some.

Reflex springs don't fit great, at least for HPI X-Patterns, and probably VTA tires, too. The spring adjuster is right at the top of the adjustment range at 5mm ride height.

Watch out for binding on the arms. I suspect a binding rear arm may have been contributing to the pulling strangeness. I hit the arm with an emory board a bit, which improved it, but it still needs some more work to free it up completely.

Lots of slop in the steering rack. I'm not sure how much of it is from the steering components themselves, and how much is from the bearings.

Holy crap are the droop screws tight!

Does anyone ever run the top deck screws that go into the layshaft bulkhead? Are you supposed to put 1mm shims under the topdeck for those?

-Mike
A lot of pull in this car will come about because of L/R camber differences and slop that leads to one side being able to vary its camber. Pay special attention to the bolts that go up through the C hubs into the steering knuckles, if these are loose in anyway camber will vary on that corner.
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Old 04-22-2013, 04:38 PM   #1377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDaShrubber View Post
Pay special attention to the bolts that go up through the C hubs into the steering knuckles, if these are loose in anyway camber will vary on that corner.
Oooh, I didn't think to check the kingpins. The good thing is, the better we got the car working, the less stuff he hit.

-Mike
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:31 PM   #1378
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If anyone wants some evidence of durability, watch the dark-blue car that starts in 3rd place:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeqX95VG6dE

That's about how I was doing 3 years ago. Only my car broke A LOT.

-Mike
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Old 04-22-2013, 11:47 PM   #1379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
If anyone wants some evidence of durability, watch the dark-blue car that starts in 3rd place:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeqX95VG6dE

That's about how I was doing 3 years ago. Only my car broke A LOT.

-Mike
Not sure if I should take that as a complement, or...
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:37 PM   #1380
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Picked up some Tamiya ball cups and also a servo saver. Going to wrench on the car today ready for tonights racing, weather permitting. Will report back tomorrow about the centering issues!
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